Uttaranchal's capital and party town

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Dehra Dun is really worth the visit if you would like to see an Indian City functioning without the customary madness and choas. From the main road where Mohyal ashram, buses or shared jeeps can be stopped for a hop on which beats travelling all the way into town to catch a bus (It took us all of 40rps to Dehra Dun in a shared jeep that stopped for us). For the 2 days spent there, walking through the bazaaar is a real pleasure as well as visiting the Sikh Temple. The bazaar is closed off to 4 wheelers and although 2 wheelers continue on their own death wish with customised bus horns, the noises fade becuase the place fills one with a sense of calm and peace... for a city that is. Not more than a kilometer long, you get a glimpse of women having their hands hennaed, shoes hung from 2nd storey balconies, sequince catching the fading light, material stores proudly displaying their wares from all corners of India and people just strollng through free from shoving and harrasment.

Onward quickly to Mussoorie. A quick word of warning, do not go there during the peak holiday period of May to June. It is like a village thumping on a concoction of E and cocaine, with a bad trip. Traffic jams last till early morning on the weekends in the narrow streets, there is a constant crowd of people and smoke from fumes and the noise pollution puts a Metalica concert to shame. Sure, there is some respite from the heat but there is more cosmopolitan flare in the place with its Coffee Days and Rbk stores than the state capital itself. Not really something that I was looking for in particular. Do try out 'My Home' near Barista coffee house, great tandooris to be found, if you can get a table!

The one place that was really nice was Happy Valley, a 2 or 3km juant from the town itself. A tibetan settlement, it was first set up to house the Tibetan Government of Exile by the Dalai Lama. Over time, although the exile Government of Tibet moved to Dharamsala in Himachal Pradeshwith, the community continues like a little country transplanted. Prayer flags in primary colours flutter quietly on top of the hill whispering messages of hope and love. Even in the hills, up above the heat, away from the distant shimmering lights, India constantly reminds one of the unique ying and yang of its existence. Even in the mountains.

For the bus journey down, a word of caution for the squeamish. If you are sitting by the window, close it quick when someone sticks their head out to chuck. Or make way for the person beside you to vomit. The sharp turns and the quick braking make for a stomach churning ride, so skip your meals and practice your sharp reflexes for that 10rps ride downhill. its definitely more entertaining than the one uphill!

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