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Published: August 8th 2004
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Jageshwar Temple
Historic Jageshwar Group of temples Almora is not your usual hill station. While Shimla, Mussoorrie and Nainital have a fixed kind of travel menu, Almora has rich mix of culture, history and sightseeing to offer.
"These mountains are associated with the best memories of our race: Here, therefore, must be one of centers, not merely of activity, but more of calmness of meditation, and of peace and I hope some one to realize it," said Swami Vivekananda replying to the address given to him by the people of Almora. If the great philosopher was so enchanted by these mountains then what to say about lesser mortals like me.
For the uninitiated it was here in Almora at Kasar Devi Swami Vivekananda came to meditate. Though some of its old magic is gone but it still retains its charm for those looking for some quiet escape and rejuvenation. Why not? This ancient hill station is reputed for it's health giving climate. Though Almora is one of the few hill stations not established by the British but they did nurture it under their rule because they found it was good for their health.
For those interested in history, Almora, before it's establishment was under
View of Himalayas
Natural beauty on display the possession of Katyuri king Baichaldeo. He donated major part of this land to a Gujarati Brahmin Sri Chand Tiwari. Later on when Chand kingdom was founded in Baramandal, the town of Almora was founded at this centrally located place in 1560 by Kalyan Chand. It’s historic importance can be gauged from the fact that the mountain on which the Almora is located is described in the famous epic
Manaskhand as follows:
Kaushiki Shalmali Madhyey Punyah Kashaya Parwatah'
'Tasy Paschim Bhagam Kshetra Vishnyo Pratishthtam' In the days of the Chand Kings it was called Rajapur. The name ‘Rajpur’ is also mentioned over a number of ancient copper plates. The town of Almora is situated over a horse saddle shaped ridge of a mountain. The eastern portion of the ridge is known as
Talifat and the western one is known as
Selifat. The market is at the top of the ridge where these two,
Talifat and
Selifat jointly terminate.
If you are one of those in search of snow views then this place is ideal for such activity because from here you can have a panoramic view of the snowy peaks of Himalayas on clear days. In addition you also get a glimpse of the township with its tiled roofed houses and paved streets would take you to the sixteenth century in some thoughtful moment.
Nearby places of tourist interest where an excursion can be made within a day are Bright End Corner's unforgettable sunset,
Chitai temple with it's unique collection of brass bells of all sizes, gifted to the temple by devotees of the
Gollu devta worshipped in Kumaon for centuries. Six kilometer ahead of main city is Kasar Devi which houses many Europeans who fell in love with the place so much that they have settled down in nearby villages. Kasar Devi stands on what is still known as the Crank's ridge, formerly a haunt of artists and writers. Literary giant D H Lawrence spent two summers here, and it has also attracted Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens and Timothy Leary, known as the father of the hippy movement.
Also not to be missed are Nanda Devi Temple, the cultural and religious center of Almora for now hundreds of years, and Lala Bazar a unique market of more than two hundred years with paved streets of stone.
While you are in Almora, don’t forget to travel to Binsar to get one of the best views of snow clad peaks including the Nanda Devi and the five peaks that form the majestic Panchachuli. Situated only 30 kms away from Almora, it lies nestled amongst thick forests of Oak and Rhododendron offering surprisingly close views of the Himalayan peaks. The entire region is now a wildlife sanctuary and has a host of wildlife like Panther and Barking Deer. While there, look for Raju guide at KMVN Tourist Lodge. He knows all the trees and birds and one feels safe with him when walking deep inside the forest to reach Zero Point. When I was there I could hear barking dear barking loudly. Raju told me it means there was a leopard around!
Another main attraction around Almora is Jageshwar group of temples. Situated around 35 kms from Almora, Jageshwer is one of the most important religious places of Hindus in Kumaun and is believed to be the abode of the one of the twelve
Jyotirlingas. It is even mentioned in the great epic of
Mahabharata. The great temple complex is situated in a narrow and beautiful valley covered with Cedar trees. Two streams Nandini and Surabhi flow down the hills and meet near the sacred spot. Dense grove of Cedar trees and sweet murmur of the riverlets give a peculiar charm and sanctity to this place. But greedy priests inside temples spoil the calm by behaving like ‘hawkers’ to lure devotees inside temples and forcing them to offer donations after performing some spontaneous
pooja.
Their are 124 temples and hundreds of magnificent statues of exquisite craftsmanship. The oldest shrine is of the 'Mrityunjaya' and the biggest shrine is of the
Dindeshwara. During the monsoons their is huge fair held every year at Jageshwer.
If you still haven’t had enough of these ancient temples then head for Katarmal temple. Situated around 17 kms from Almora, Katarmal is famous for 800 years old temple dedicated to the Sun God. The only other temple in India dedicated to the Sun is the Konark temple in Puri in Orissa.
HOW TO REACH ALMORA The nearest airport to Almora is at Pantnagar, about 127 kms from Almora. The nearest railway station is at Kathgodam situated around 90 kms away. Kathgodam is connected by rail directly with Delhi, Lucknow and Calcutta. From Kathgodam local transport, private taxies as well as buses run by private operators, and buses run by the state government corporation.
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