Agra

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We are greeted outside the station by the usual screaming mob offering best hotels and best rickshaw prices, but beyond the maddened crowd we see a city quite different to Delhi. There is a better vibe here, less dirty, less desperate.

Our time in Agra was challenging for the both of us because we both got very ill. First me with acute stomach pains and vomiting, then just as we thought we were free, Ness also falls prey to the Delhi Belly. We both feel that illness was inevitable on our budget so here was as good a place as any to brave it out. Our guesthouse was fairly clean with cooling fans, and stores were nearby for simple food and bottled water.

Before moving on we still had an opportunity to visit the Taj Mahal and Red Fort as well as strolling through the lush parks and gardens of this beautiful city.

Journal excerpts:

Tom: "..Taj Ganj seems the obvious port of call due to its cheap guesthouses and proximity to the Taj Mahal. Hotel Sidartha is a far more clean and comfortable place than the Hare Rama with a rooftop view of the Taj Mahal which is resident to several families of monkeys who are most entertaining..."

Tom: "..Today a couple of monkey youngsters took to trying to dismantle the mosquito netting I had carefully placed over the outside of our window. A sharp wrap on the shutter from inside would startle them away but each time they would return ever braver. Soon there came a loud knocking on our door so we hastily open it expecting to find quest house staff but instead see the two monkeys beating a hasty retreat then mocking me from a safe distance. I could not believe I had been knock-knock gingered by a wild animal - Hilarious! I decided that earned them half an orange each and they soon left us alone. I have to add here; the door to our room lay down a corridor completely out of sight from the window so it must have taken an extraordinary level or consciousness to figure out how to get back at us..."

Tom: "..Joney’s is the café of choice in Taj Ganj and testament to its good reputation is scrawled on the grubby interior walls by its many happy customers. Upon the advice of several of the colourful entries we order cheese toasties (a welcome break from curry) and Ness tries the lassi. Indeed the food is delicious and cheap!.."

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Photos

Roadside cows
Cows freely roam the streets in India as they are considered holy. I tend to agree.