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Published: July 21st 2009
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No one ever has anything nice to say about Agra, the town that surrounds the Taj Mahal. Everyone has stories of hassle from agressive touts and scammers, so my expectations aren't that high. On the other hand, everyone has loads of good things to say about the Taj Mahal, and so, as we're finding is the way here, we're ready to take the rough with the smooth.
Our delayed train finally pulls into Agra at midnight, there are no touts around and the pre-paid rickshaw stand is still open, so we have an easy escape from the station. We end up at the Shanti Lodge, not far from the Taj's eastern gate, although it's not until breakfast that we realise how close we are. The view from the rooftop cafe is fantastic: the Taj Mahal gleams in the morning sun like a pearl. It's searingly hot already, so we decide to relax and head over there late afternoon.
After my mu-mu dress experience at the Jama Masjid mosque, I dress carefully! Luckily today I make it through unscathed...my kaftan dress from Vietnam gets approval from the female security guard straight away, and I escape the fancy dress box. The
security is thorough...everyone walks through metal detectors and gets patted down. The entry fee for foreign tourists is high at 750Rs (10 pounds), especially as it costs just 20Rs for Indians, but we weren't looking for a refund afterwards!
From the immaculate lawns of the Chowk-i-Jilo Khana courtyard, the Taj is hidden by the huge arched red sandstone gateway, topped with domes and decorated with verses from the Koran: "Enter thou My Paradise". And then you pass through the inner gateway and before you is the majestic, perfect, Taj Mahal. Built by the devastated Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, after she died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631, it deserves it's place as one of the seven wonders of the world. It is breathtakingly beautiful; the white marble dazzling in the sundrenched 'charbagh', the traditional Persion garden.
The gardens are designed to the Koran's description of Paradise; the lawns divided into quadrants by waterways representing the four rivers of paradise, leading to the central 'pool of abundance'. Unfortunately at this, the hottest and driest, time of year, the waterways are dry...let alone running with milk, honey, water and wine. The
design and craft of the place is astounding...it's perfectly symmetrical form completed in 1653, having taken over 20 years, by a workforce of 20,000 men. It's said that Shah Jahan then intended work to begin on a twin, black marble tomb on the opposite riverbank for his own final resting place. He never got the chance though...his son seized power that year and kept his father imprisoned until his death 12 years later. The Shah was then laid next to his beloved at the Taj Mahal, his monument to eternal love.
People are queuing to do the 'Princess Diana shot' at the famous bench, and as Ritchy tries to line up another 'Ritchy shot' for the collection, a few people ask to have a photo with me. Families all dressed up in Sunday best, the women a rainbow in their finest saris, the kids' hair slicked as though ready for school photos. God knows how many family snaps I'm in, but it turns into quite a photoshoot with more people stopping to join in. Babies are thrust into my arms and children shyly reach for my hand...it's funny and flattering, if a little surreal. Two teenage boys begin following
us everywhere, we pose for photos with them, but they stay right by our sides. We sit on a bench made for two, thinking they'll remember that this is supposed to be a romantic place, but they hover next to us, asking what we're doing now. Ritch eventually manages to get rid of them without being mean, but then a group of young teenage girls take their place as my new entourage...best keep moving!
After removing our shoes, we climb the marble steps up to the riverside platform which the Taj sits on, each corner marked by a tall minaret. It's not until you get this close that you can appreciate the mausoleum's fully grandeur. The intricate relief carvings which play tricks on your eyes, and the inlaid precious stones forming floral patterns are exquisite...it really is the most beautiful building in the world I have ever seen. Although there are quite alot of people here today, it never feels really busy (even with a queue of people waiting for your photo!) The place is lively, but still serene, and everyone is dressed up and excited to be here...we see a wedding party, the bride in a stunning ornate
red sari and dripping with gold jewellry.
As you leave the Taj complex, you must run the gauntlet of touts, gift shop owners, and wide eyed children, all trying to extract the cash. The touts and shops are easy enough to sidestep but the children are much harder to ignore. They're so thin, some of their little faces looking strangely old and wizend. One little girl doesn't beg for anything...she just wants to play, much to her not-much-bigger brother's annoyance. We play the dizzy game together (which her brother trys to charge me for) until she's a heap of giggles on the floor. Meanwhile, a guy with slicked back hair sits astride his motorbike trying to convince Ritch to buy some gemstones at his family's shop.
Later that evening, we watch the sunset from a rooftop overlooking the Taj. The sky is full of kites, made from plastic bags. Watching them makes me feel happy and sad at the same time. Happy that something as joyful and optimistic as a kite has been made from rubbish, and sad that children have to make their toys from scraps, and then play amongst the dodgiest looking electricity pylons you've ever
seen. This is a lasting picture for me...the ramshackle rooftops of Agra and the carrier bag kites framing the Taj Mahal, glowing yellow in the fading light. Rough with the smooth. This is India.
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bridgette
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hey great blog ! just wondering how you found the shanti lodge ? heading there soon... Thanks ! Bridgette (ireland)