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Published: June 19th 2007
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The Taj Mahal, Agra.
The Taj Mahal, Agra. Well after a nice early 5:00 am start, I was on my way to Agra. Agra is 100km south of Delhi and getting there was a breeze. I arrived at around 9:30am after a quick 2 hour train ride, the shortest in recent months. When I disembarked form the train, I was happy to realise that life moved at a slightly less frantic pace here.
So out of Agra Cantonment Train Station I orgainsed an auto rickshaw to a hostel I was hoping to stay in 'Shanti Lodge', it is highly regarded for its rooftop view of the Taj. When I arrived I definitely was not disappointed, as the view was stunning, yet after checking out the rooms I realised that the view was unquestionably their best asset, however I have seen worse, so I settled in for a couple of days .
The ancient and historic city of Agra, is perhaps the most famous in India, synonymous with majestic Taj Mahal. Which was built in the 1600's as a present to Mumtaz Mahal, from the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. It is considered the greatest example of Mughal architecture, and the greatest monument to love in the world,
Locals at Yamuna river, Agra
Down and dirty with the locals at Yamuna river, Agra once described by famous Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore as “a teardrop on the face of eternity” The Taj Mahal, however is not the only attraction in this area, but it was the one I was leaving for the next day.
So to spice things up a little from trusty pedal power I decided to hire a rickshaw driver for the first day I was in town. This way I was able to avoid the harassment of the ever present tout, and by harnessing Tikki’s (my driver) wealth of local knowledge I was able to make my way to the some of the more secluded sights within Agra
The first place we visited was the Itimad-Ud-Daulah, nicknamed the Baby Taj. It was built 30 years before the Taj Mahal and seems to have provided much of its inspiration. It was the first Mughal structure to be built entirely of white marble, moreover it was also the first to inlay the marble with semi precious stones, a technique whose origins has wrongly been accredited to the Taj. I spent a couple of hours walking around the grounds, finding only one other tourist, I very much enjoyed the tranquility after the
Taj Mahl at sunrise, Agra.
Taj Maha at sunrise, Agra. hectic stay in Delhi.
Form there I headed over the Yamun River, I had spotted some water buffalo crossing and I asked Tikki if he could get me down there, he didn’t seem to think it was the greatest idea, but kindly obliged anyway. After a rather tense drive through the ‘old town’ of Agra we pulled up to a section where I could descend upon the river. Here the few buffalo I had seen from above turned in to some thousands, wallowing in the river, searching reprisal for the 35 degree Indian heat. As I looked around I realised I was really getting down and dirty with the locals, as I was right in the middle of a traditional washing station. This section of the Yamun was a small niche of life seemingly existing in a vacuum within the city. There were reed huts, burning buffalo dung patties outside for fuel, no electricity and seemingly no toilets! Now I realised why Tikki had not joined my enthusiasm for getting down to the river. After wandering along the banks, and receiving menacing stares I hopped back on the rickshaw and skirted the street food vendors, headed for my first murg makhani (butter chicken curry). That didn’t work out quite as I had planned as I could only find ‘pure-veg’ restaurants. I settled in the end for lentil curry and naan.
After lunch I headed for a rather intimidating landmark standing guard over both Agra town and the Taj Mahal. The Red Fort of Agra, still in use by the Indian Army today, only around twenty five percent of which is open to the public. Even so it was an impressive sight, quite similar though to the Delhi Fort. However Agra’s has been used as a fort, palace, and a prison since it began in 1565. The original fort is constructed of red sandstone and the palace upgrades and mosque are of white inlaid marble. The romantic story of the Taj continues here, as Shah Jahan, the man behind the building of the Taj, was imprisoned here for 8 years in the marble palace, by his power usurping son. His only request was that he could look out his window and see his wife's tomb.
I headed back to Shanti Lodge, where I finally got my hands on that illusive makhani, it was well worth the wait! I sat and ate on the rooftop restaurant, with the Taj in the background, all theses sightings only made my anticipation grow for what I would see tomorrow.
The next morning I tried a traditional Indian breakfast, curried vegetables and deep fried naan, not great for breakfast but at least I didn’t need lunch, then from breakfast I walked through Taj Ganja, to the Taj Mahal.
The Taj rises on a high red sandstone base and is topped by a huge white marble terrace on which rests the famous dome, flanked by four tapering minarets. Within the dome lies the jewel-inlaid monument to the queen. The workman ship is exquisite and on a grand scale. The entire complex is made of white marble, and set against the plain across the river. It is this background that works the magic of colours upon the Taj, as through the rivers reflection, there is an ever changing colour spectrum thrown across the Taj. It was magnificent and truly revered by the thousands of Indians paying homage as I was there. I spent the rest of the day sitting in the grounds watching the people stroll around, dwarfed by the immense gleaming structures.
I still had Tikki for an hour or two, so I made sure I got my money’s worth. Back across the Yamun River on which the Taj sits, to a section that is reduced to a mere trickle at this time of year. As it was predominately dry I was able to walk around on the river bed to within a hundred meters of the Taj, I found a place near the waters edge, from where I could admire the Taj as the sun set. I met up with Toby, a cool German from Shanti Lodge, it was pretty much just us and a lonely camel, who seemed to want some friends.
That night we more Makhani on the rooftop restaurant, and downed some exotic imported beers (Fosters Larger Longnecks) out of covertly concealed stainless steel teapots, as our hostel is Muslim run and therefore without a liquor license, they didn’t seem to mind too much.
Tomorrow I am trying to get to Varanasi, I have bought a ticket. But apparently it is a ‘wait list’ only ticket. Rumor has it that I am assured passage onto the train, but I do not have a seat, so this could be an interesting 15hr journey. Time will tell
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Toby
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Agra and beyond...
Another awesome adventure wolfman! Although, you may have to shave that knee length bead off when you come to the UK or the police could arrest you as a terrorist suspect (or if you come to the barracks, my sentries may shoot you!). Although, Caroline thinks it looks sexy. I note that Paul and I are the most regular commenters (Hi Paul), and we are both looking forward to reading the next blog. I trust these little messages are getting through to you. Speak soon. Wolfman's big brother.