Madurai - crisis averted and the amazing Meenakshi temple

---

Our first full day in Madurai, a city nearly as old as human civilisation, and we are almost “templed out”, which is a little unfortunate as we are in one of the great temple cities of India. We had visions of taking the opportunity of strolling around peaceful and historic byways, but the stinking heat and noise of the city has put paid to this. We go off to the Meenakshi Amman temple, “the high point of Dravidian temple architecture”. Mr Hussain gives us a short avuncular lecture before we leave the car. “Madurai number one cheating city in India. Very bad place many thieves steal camera wallet watch everything many beggars you no give money. Pay money to go in only see on notice 50 rupees only OK?” Suitably chastened we set off. David hobbles along on his gammy left ankle, swatting away beggars and hawkers. An enthusiastic young man wielding a large, professional video camera, with accompanying sound man, breaks off filming a wedding party proceeding down the street, to their slight bemusement. “Excuse me sir, what is your camera very nice?” “Canon 5D mark II, with the 17-40mm wide angle L lens today.” “Sir how much in your country?” “About £2500”, “Aiyahh” he bubbles excitedly to the sound man, and returns to his wedding filming.

A problem. Soldiers are on guard outside the temple, as this is a religiously significant temple thought to be potentially at risk of attack by Islamists, and inter alia they are enforcing the no cameras inside rule. Unlike the usual no photography rule, you cannot take the camera inside. “You leave in luggage check”. This comprises some open lockers with keys hanging out. The keys are not used and goods are placed inside and not locked up. “Can you lock and take the key?” “No we look after very safe”. Yeah right, we are going to leave two cameras worth about four grand hanging out of that locker. So back to the car to find Mr Hussain who quite reasonably has gone off for some tea. Oh dear. It is about 35C and we need some shade to wait so we find a urine smelling park full of pilgrims and vagrants and a low stone wall to sit on. Note to self, wash these trousers when back at the hotel.

After about half an hour we go back to the car and find him, and leave the cameras with him. Back to the temple, pay our 50 rupees each. What an amazing place! There are 12 gopurams, all encrusted with a staggering array of gods, goddesses, demons and heroes, all richly painted, and all different. The four main gopurams are massive. Most of the existing temple was built during the 17^th century by the Nayak kings, but its origins go back 2000 years. The temple is dedicated to the triple-breasted goddess Meenakshi (a form of Parvati) with a sanctum for her consort, Sudareshwarar (Shiva). According to legend, Meenakshi was born with three breasts and the prophecy that her superfluous breast would melt away when she met her husband. The event came to pass when she met Shiva and took her place as his consort.



Inside we find the Thousand Pillar Hall. This is now an art museum where there is a Shiva shrine with a large bronze Nataraja at the end of a corridor of beautifully carved stone pillars (some of the best we have seen in India), plus many bronzes into whose display cabinets people have stuffed their business cards and photos to seek blessings and good luck. Further into the temple is a Nandi shrine surrounded by more beautifully carved columns and the temple tree – this one of solid gold, none of that red painted stone rubbish we saw yesterday. Needless to say the priceless treasures in the main Shiva shrine and the main Meenakshi shrine are denied us……as yes, only Hindus can enter. In many parts of India 50 rupees to the Brahmin doorkeeper would get you 5 minutes of temporary conversion to Hinduism allowing you to enter, but not in Tamil Nadu, they are serious about their shrines here.



There is a 50 meter square tank, the Golden Lotus Pond, within the temple precincts. In ancient times, the sangam, an assembly of Tamil poets, met there to judge the merits of new poems. They threw the manuscripts into the pool, and those that sank were judged inferior while those that floated were worthy of praise. Seems a pretty stupid way of judging a competition but that's how they did it!

Back to the car, which by now has heated up in the sun to well over 40 degrees. We crawl through the traffic to the Thirumalai Nayak palace which was built in 1636 by the ruler whose name it bears. Built in Indo Saracenic style, what is left is impressive if somewhat run down. All that remains is the courtyard, main hall and the dancing hall, all stuccoed and surrounded by massive pillars. Unfortunately the king's grandson demolished most of the original palace and nicked the jewels and woodcarvings to build his own palace. Then as now, Indians can be careless about preserving their heritage. What is now left is largely thanks to Lord Napier, the then Governor of Madras, who partially restored the palace in the late 1860s. Good chap Lord Napier. And enough sightseeing for today.

---

Comments

[mehathi]

Temple
Nice one. I have read from an website which had most of the popular temples with brief and clear informations. Please check out the following website: www.templedetails.com

[mehathi]

Temple
Nice one. I have visited a website which had most of the popular temples with brief and clear informations. Please check out the following website: www.templedetails.com