Chennai to Madurai and in Madurai and Kodaikanal

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We're in Kodaikanal now, this is a hill station about 7500ft high in the Western Ghat mountains of South India. It's 9:30 pm. Got here last night. I'm at an internet cafe, not too many folks in here now. The eternal sound of Indian traffic is happening outside with the horn chatter.
It's quite a change being up here vs. down in Chennai or Madurai. Lot cooler here. Quite comfortable.
Great fruits like oranges, jack fruit, star fruits, green mangos with lime and chilli (yum), they even have corn here coated with chilli and lime, but it's not impressive. We're all sticking with the food of deep south India which is far and away some of the best food i've ever eaten.
Today is the first time we decided to go non-vegitarian. Had some delicious chicken that was recommended by a guide. Yum

Anyways, last blog I wrote was when I did the Chennai city mosh pit walk through the crowds to find the last cafe. That was wild.
I met the family back at the Saree shop, they did their purchases by the time we got back( an hour or more after i left )
All the stuff they bought was cotton, I informed the crew that since we were in one of the worlds silk capitals it would only be fitting to buy silk. Thus began round two of Saree shopping spree.
Side note- I just noticed that I bumped something with my foot and that the computer is right by my feet with the cover off and wires hanging everywhere. Oh well. Get used to it.
So lots and lots and lots of silk scarfs and a few full Sarees where bought. We figured the scarfs would make great gifts. hint hint now you know what your getting 😉
OMG after having the bag guy with his hands full of Sarees we were ready for the damage. Rs. 5000 = $150 more or less. For a ton of silk. Shop was great, fixed prices, all the middle class Indians were there, so I figured we came out good.
After that we went to the Woodland park cafe which is where our driver Mohan took us to. Mohan, that's another story, what a character. So this Woodland park place is an Indian drive in restaurant. It's wooded, covered in x-mas lights and quite fun. We went inside, had great food, ate with our fingers - of course. Austin who is Mr. non spicy food is cleaning his plate every day. Go figure. Meal ended with awesome Tamil Nadu coffee where they mix it by pouring it from cup to cup to make it really foamy. It's pretty much like a perfect capicino for 4 rupees = 10 cents. And then - sigh - the post meal Indian bathroom experience. I guess this is what the atmosphere on Jupiter smells like. Nuff said.

Next stop - Egmore train station for the trip to Madurai.
Got the bags out of the car, porters put them on a little cart and we waited for them to post the seating chart. Meanwhile I poked around some other cars and checked out the AC2 and AC3 cars which we'll be doing for our other trips. Looks fine. But this time, AC1, since we're Indian rookies still. We had our lockable cabin with our own sink and life is good. The porter dumped our bags in our carraige, and then the prick wasn't happy with my tip, I gave him more to buy him off and later realized the two guys got $10. For pushing a hand cart and moving our bags 15 ft. Oh well. We were all hassled and that's the breaks.
I had a good nights sleep on the train.

Arrived in Madurai the next day at 6:30am, spot on time. We grabbed our bags off the train. I told the family to hang out while I located the driver. Walked about 1km to the station entrance on the other side of our very long train and he found me. So we grabbed our bags (without porters) and loaded car.
Went to the Meenakshi temple. Wow!!! Incredible place. Reminded my of Chitzen Itza in the Yucatan except it's being used. Plus, no sacrifices, which is cool. Only problem is that we got rushed through it cause apparently the driver isn't a licenced guide for the temple was paranoid that he would get in trouble. Only found this out afterwards unfortunately. But, I managed to slow the pace up a little and found peace. Very spiritual place regardless of your religous belief. Just listening to the chanting, birds flying, children playing and SIR SIR SIR SIR EXCUSE ME SIR I CAN TAKE PICTURES OF THE GOLD SHRINE FOR YOU SIR.... pop went my bubble of peace. But, it was there, briefly.
Next time, just bring the damn guide book, tell the driver and his buddy to stay in the car, and just go in and soak the place up.
After that we saw the Meenakshi tank, which is large concrete pond with a temple in the middle. This is the very tank that Shiva's daughter Meenakshi resides, she's Vishnus sister I think. But, at that point it was nothing too interesting. More interesting were the Saree weavers on the street working the micro thin strands of cotton while holding razor blades in their mouths. Pretty neat stuff.

Realized at this point I should consult the Rough Guide book because we were about to leave town. Decided to go back to city center and get a view of the temple from the top of a roof of a shop. Of course we knew that nobody will just let you have a view without buying something. So, we till this to the guide who tells the driver. We park and the guide says he has a very very good friend who owns a Saree shop.
So begins Saree shopping hell round two. Fortunately, I am armed with fresh knowledge of prices from Chennai, and, I educated myself on Kanchipuram silk saree prices too. Well, the whole staff spread out all their stuff in front of us, everything was half off the marked price, oh goody, must be a special day for us haha. No worries, I am armed and ready. Once we decide on a few Sarees the game begins.
6200 i counter 4500
insulted he counters 6000
i counter that I've seen similar
i counter 5000
what, this is hand loomed, not machined
he holds, i hold
OK, he can do 5500 after some stalling
what, i've seen the same ones in chennai for 2000 each why is this a deal
he brings out his receipts showing he's not making money on it
so, time for me to change the game
throw in this other cheap sari for 5500, then i'll close the deal, everybody happy.
What he says, that saree is 750
Yes is say, but look, i want to give you business, but I have driver to pay, big trip, and this will all cost soo much
oh he says, you really are a gentlemen sir
hummm, does this mean we're both having fun, i dunno, i wasn't intending on spending more money for sarees, but yeah, it was quite a hoot.
ok, 5800 he says
5700 i say
what he says, you counter for only 100 rupees diference ( $2.50 )
humm ( i'm wondering if I watched the haggle scene in Monty Pythons Life of Brian one too many times and I felt quite petty at that point) I will not budge, I sat stone faced.
He moved
Hands shaken, the I saw my family start breathing again, life in the store turned back on
He hopes I was not upset, oh no I say, it's just part of the process, no worries
Woohoo, what a rush, I actually enjoyed that.
I also realized that I came out pretty good because I remembered the same kind of Sarees in the fixed price store in Chennai were Rs 2700-2800, so if this was Vegas I guess I would have spent 4 hours playing the tables, had a bunch of drinks, and walked out with one more dollar then I came in with.
Can't complain. Except we probably needed more Sarees like a hole in the head. But, I bet they'll look great hanging from the walls and on the ceilings.

Next I thought we would go upstairs to get a view, no, the view is at the other building which is much closer. So off we went to the front of the best looking marble covered building on the block, hummmmm. I breath tell Mom that the purchase her duty this time and in we go, straight to the elevator and up to the top,
wow, what a view, temple is great, we hang out for a bit and soak it in. Claudia is talking to somebody for a bit, our guide splits and we're at peace again.
Time to go, the guy Claudia talks to shows us the way out down the back stairs
Welcome to the hotel california, you can check out anytime you like only after you part with Rupeeeeesss.
Please, let me offer you tea, and I will show you how Kashmir rugs are made.
Time to level. I say that it's all very nice but I really have no intention of buying
No problem no problem, let me just offer tea and show you how they're made
so the pitch was made, strike one, strike two, strike three, no carpet sold
he was a man of his word, no presure, we walk down to the next floor, more stuff
Mom decides to buy the consolation prize and gets a very nice silk scarf.
And, we check out.
Enter car, time for Mr. Toads wild ride again.
Stop for lunch and had the best eggplant ever. Made by grandma with no teeth. But damn that was good.
That's it for now, it's 10:30pm and i'm getting kicked out. Too much more to write but oh well.
Manakam - Namaste - Bye

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Comments

[Burd]

wow! sounds like you guys are having a blast over there. Can't wait to see the video Ian said that he was taking ^^

[Neelima]

Seems like you are fun!!! :-)
Take lots of pictures...enjoy!!!