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Published: August 26th 2007
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Woke up at 6 am after a fitfull but short sleep and went to breakfast in the hotel restaurant with Abi, Laltha, Mona, Sanji and Sangeev. Thius consisted of yummy roti's, uthappan (pancake-like bread), curries, cake, fruit and coffee. Indian coffee, different than what we have in Canada is meant to be mixed at a ratio of 1:4 with milk. I did not know this and I prepared mine like I would at home. WHen the waiter cam to take it away, I refused, wanting to keep it and some confusion ensued. Sangeev then explained to me how it is supposed to be done, and we all had a good laugh at my greenness. It was a good caffine kick in the morning still...
We made our way out awhile later in a hired auto into the bustling streets of Chennai. We needed to go to the saree shops (a fomous institution in Chennai) for Abi for the wedding. She needs no less than 3 different sarees for the lengthly event. The shop we chose, called Ponthy's, is 6 stories high and FULL fo sarees, salvars, bangles, tunics and all other manners of beautiful, colourful clothing. For 4 hours we looked for wedding sarees, which was an intoxicatingly rich experience. Wedding sarees are extremely fine garments, crafted of the finest raw silk and gold embroidery. They are all neatly folded and stacked on high shelves in a large room with dark ornately carved wood and comfy plush seats for sitting and viewing the wears. The men behind the counters work quickly and efficiently, whipping out all of the colours and styles they think you might be interested in, flapping open the heavy fabric in one swift motion, and folding it away as quickly as it was displayed, with expereinced, calculated movements. This was an amazing experience and I felt quite priviliged to have been a part of it. I realized at one point that I was, quite conspicuously, the only white person in the whole building - in fact, the only non-brown person. While most of the adults were able to resist the temptation to stare, the children had no such inhibitions and looked, and smiled, liberally.
After this edition of our saree marathon we went for a well deserved lunch at a restaurant serving Malaysian fare. This was very tasty and VERY spicy. Unfortunately, I was absolutely exhausted by this point. having gotten but 15 hours of sleep in about 4 days, having traveled half way around the world and gone for a crazy shopping adventure. I also find the act of being around a group of people who speak a language you don't understand, yet trying to understand the jist of what is being said through context, body language and the odd english word to be very intense, and thus, rather tiring. I am happy, however, to have the oppourtunity to experience what it is like to be in a subordinate linguistic group in a foreign place. It gives me greater understanding and compassion for the masses of ESL immigrants who come to Canada.
Upon leaving the restaurant, I experienced my first full-frontal interaction with the devastating poverty that plagues India. I soptted her as we waited for the car to pull around, and she had spotted me as well. As my heart dropped, I prepared myself to ignore this little girl of about 7 or 8 and walk by her without acknowledging her bare feet, tatterted clothing, wide eyes and redening, vitamin-deficient hair. "Madam," "Madam" she called after me, grabbing at my handf and standing at the open door as we discussed where next to spend obscene amount of money on world-class cloth. Children are notoriously exploited here, being used as pitiable objects to get tourists dollars only to be turned over to their pimp-like masters and keep little or nothing for themselves. Even with this in mind, I couldn't help but look at Abi pleadingly, wondering what to do. She comforted me first with her eyes and then with her wallet, giving the girl Rs 20. I had better toughen up sooner than later; I am a target as it is and with the slightest bit of visible sympathy, I will be even more exposed to the begging masses. But this shouldn't be about me and my reation to poverty. It should be about the fact that starvation, homelessness and being destitute are very real plagues here... but I don't know what to do with that... comments and insight warmly welcomed...
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Aunt Celeste
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Hand out a children's chewable vitamin instead.
Hand out a children's chewable vitamin instead.