Jaipur, capital city of Rajasthan and the Pink City

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Jaipur day 1 Train ride from Agra o Jaipur











We woke up at dawn in Agra and headed out our hotel to catch our taxi ride, same guy we hired for the Agra tour. Unfortunately, he was not there and so we could not afford to wait longer so we took a tuk tuk from the area to the train station. The tuk tuk said 100 rupees, but negotiated the price and paid 50 in the end (it was a 20 minutes ride only). We arrived to the train station to see on the board our train was cancelled UHGGGGG India! Well we got in a long line to ask if there was another train coming and they said yes, but it was all booked and the only places left were on general class: meaning standing (for 5 hours) and obviously super cheap! We then were told we could get a refund and catch the train tomorrow at the same time. First we went to an office were they put a cancelled stamp on our tickets. There we saw a few tourists that were on the same situation, one couple was from Bolivia. When the office agent saw our tickets he said our train was the next day … oops!! So he could not cancelled it plus if he did cancelled it we would have to book a new one. So we headed out again to the reservation booth and they said that our train was scheduled for tomorrow on time. However another group of tourists told us that they had a ticket to Jaipur for the previous day and it was also cancelled, so chances were that our next day train would also be cancelled. Our dilemma was either cancelled our ticket and book general class ticket for the same day, waiting with hope for the next day or taking a private taxi with the rest of the tourists. We had already seen everything in Agra so no point in staying another day, he tourists were trying to negotiate with a taxi and were not getting anywhere and well a train full of people with a backpack on your back and standing for 5 hours. Did not feel appealing. However I got in the line to ask for a train ticket it was a long line full of men and women started to go in front so I took advantage of my sexual gender and also went in front. So I bought 2 general class tickets and we were in for a new train adventure.







We got our things and headed out to the platform to find out our train was late AGAIN! When it finally came we go in and started walking inside the train, which was jammed until we found a place to stand and sit free. Lucky for us no one claimed the bed we were sitting on and so we sat all the 5 hours phew! I even slept all curled down and in a kind of sitting position.







We got to Jaipur around 1 o clock. We were a little annoyed at tuk tuks and decided to walk to the budget hotel area that Lonely Planet recommended. As we walked on small sidewalks not always very well maintained we started to feel the heat of the Rajasthan desert. Even though we only had a very small map Kyle managed to navigate us in an excellent manner all the way to the hotel area. As we were walking we notices that the city was kind of developing and lots of construction, even a metro was being built. We passed a few Indian hotels near the train station, but the area was too crowded and really noisy. I had a hard time with dealing with the commotion, loudness, crowdness and traffic here. Finally, we reached an area that seemed like full of residential houses, but at the same time we saw a few hotels and guesthouses. We walked in the recommended budget hotel from LP but it was all booked so we kind of wandered around and every other tuk tuk driver will say ¨where are you going? I will take you. ¨ But knowing the ability of tuk tuk drivers to scam tourist we always said no, until this one man started to talked to us and even followed us walking leaving his tuk tuk with the engine on in the middle of the street telling us there was an ok not so expensive hotel nearby. We said we will walk to it as it was literally 50 meters away and he insisted and followed us with his tuk tuk. We asked for one room and it was 700 rupees an ok price and so we stayed there. The tuk tuk driver offered to take us around Jaipur´s sights the next day for 600 rupees. He said we only had to pay for gas and maybe a parking space (about 200 rupees in all) so we accepted. He even said that if we did not like his service we could get our money back and did not even have to tip him ( I paused here to say you need to read the next entry on Jaipur to find our what happened with this man).



It was about 3 o´clock by now and we were exhausted. So we chilled in the hotel for a bit and completely passed out until about 8 o´clock.







Indian dinner and The Puppet Show







We went to the rooftop restaurant to eat Indian dinner. As we were waiting for our waiter, two Indian boys one about 12 and the other about 9 years old came by and asked us to see their puppet show. We agreed and they sat us in front of a kind of old-fashioned puppet theatre booth and began the show. The younger boy was hiding and was in charged of the two puppets a kind, queen and a horse. The older boy was in charged of playing the drums and the other was in charge of playing an Indian instrument and make the music. The show was pretty basic, but it was an authentic kids show. So cute! They even told us that it was their grandfather who made those puppets. But of course they wanted to sell the puppets and so here began the dilemma. I just loved the show and felt sensitive about these two boys who were about my nieces ages to be working late at night instead of being at home going to bed and being kids. So I wanted to buy the puppets but they were selling them for a huge amount of money. We negotiated and well the boys stole my heart with their charisma, joy for life, hard work and sweetness. So I now own a pair, queen and king, of Indian handmade puppets fro Rajasthan. We sat down and ordered dinner. Actually Kyle ordered it. We ate chana masala, one of y favorite dishes, chicken tikka, some mixed veggies, roti (bread), panneer and kofta, with a lemon soda. It was absolutely delicious!!!! While we were eating the boys kept coming to us and chatting. They gave us a pair of elephants as a gift because I gave them a four leaf silver clover that I had when I first came to China which had a good luck charm written quote. I translated it to English and wish them the best and signed it Kyle and Alejandra. They told us they went to school until 2 o clock and their favorite subjects were Science, Reading and PE and they learned English for their family business. They would do their homework and at 4 they would come to the hotel restaurant to work until about 12 midnight. It made me reflect a lot about my life, my nieces and nephew and how lucky and the great things we have in our lives. Kyle gave them a few coins from Canada and China and we said our good byes to head to our room for the night.







day 2 Jaipur The Pink City tour







We woke up and had breakfast at the rooftop bar of the hotel, pancakes and french toast. We packed our bags and left them int he hotel storage for the day. Our tuk tuk driver was aready there to take us on a tour of Jaipur otherwise known as The Pink City.







Our tuk tuk driver was a young Indian guy around 20 years old and very determined to show us the sights of Jaipur. First stop was to fill the tuk tuk´s tank with gas. It was about 160 rupees (pretty cheap!)



We then headed towards the city centered and to see the City Palace and Observatory. The City Palace had been restored and well maintained and it was more like a museum. We alked through several romos filled with old paintings, furniture, sculptures of old times. There was a courtyard with a few doors and windows from where the women would see and observe the amenities and festivities of the palace. The guards where dressed with old soldier suits and hats and were demanding tourists for photos with them. I took one and then of course we had to give them some rupees. Then we crossed the street to the observatory. Kyle had been to one in Kolkatta, but I had not been to one, and since the tickets were all included for the sights we decided to go in just for a little bit. It was an open building with lots of cool and astrnomy aparatus that look kind of taken out of a theme park, but you were technically not allowed to go in or on them. The first instrument was like a giant spaceship with a ball in the middle and i think if I am not mistaken it was a measuring instrument. Then we saw a couple of smaller instruments that looked like stairs and benches to sit on. Then we saw a big solar clock. It had the degrees and lines used to tell what time of the day it was. It was a pretty cool thing to see. Then we headed with our tuk tuk driver to the main fort, which actually consisted of three forts. Two of them were attached by an underground tunnel pathway and the other was a bit farther away and had to be reached by rode.











The entrance of Amer fort was magnificient. A steep uphill towards a high and robust entrance door where elephants used to go through when the time of the maharajalas. Then an open courtyard with beautiful gardens and stone brick buildings. We walked for several hours inside the fort´s palace also known as Amer Palace where the RajputMaharajas families used to live. As we walked through the path and hallways of the inside of the palace we came across some kind of laberynth of entrances and up and down staircases. We wandered for a bit until we managed to find an exit to go on the top of the roof of the palace and se Amer fort and Jaigarh Fort, with the gardens and lakes that surrounded. We then headed out the laberynth to find a place to eat and go search for the underground tunnel to Jaigarth fort. We found an American café where we ate some samosas and a doughnut and some lattes and frappuchinos and relaxed for a bit while waiting for the sun to lower so we could head out to Jaighar fort.







The main fort is called Amber or Amer (Hindi) fort and is one of the principal tourist attractions in the Jaipur area, located high on a hill.Amer Fort was built by Raja Man Singh I. Amer Fort is known for its artistic style, blending both Hindu and Rajput elements. With its large ramparts, series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks the Maota Lake, at its forefrontThe aesthetic ambiance of this formidable fort is seen within its walls on a four level layout plan (each with a courtyard) in a well turned out opulent palace complex built with red sandstone and marble consisting of the Diwan-e-Aam or the "Hall of Public Audience", the Diwan-e-Khas or the "Hall of Private Audience", the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace) or Jai Mandir, and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is artificially created by winds that blow over the water cascade within the palace. Hence, the Amer Fort is also popularly known as the Amer Palace. The palace was lived in by the RajputMaharajas and their families. At the entrance to the palace near the fort’s Ganesh Gate, there is also a temple dedicated to Sila Devi, a goddess of the Chaitanya cult which was given to Raja Man Singh when he had defeated the Raja of Jessore, Bengal in 1604. (Jessore is now in Bangladesh). Amer was known in the medieval period as Dhundar (meaning attributed to a sacrificial mount in the western frontiers) and ruled by the Kachwahas from the 11th century onwards – between 1037 and 1727 AD, till the capital was moved from Amer to Jaipur. The history of Amer is indelibly linked to these rulers as they founded their empire at Amer.



Earlier to the Kachwahas, Amer was a small place built by in the town they consecrated to Amba, the Mother Goddess, whom they knew as 'Gatta Rani' or 'Queen of the Pass'. The Amer Fort, as it stands now, was built over the remnants of this earlier structure during the reign of Raja Man Singh, Commander in Chief of Akbar’s army and a member of the Emperor's inner circle of nine courtiers, in 1592. The structure was fully expanded by his descendant, Jai Singh I. Even later, Amer Fort underwent improvements and additions by successive rulers over the next 150 years, until the Kachwahas shifted their capital to Jaipur during the time of Sawai Jai Singh II, in 1727.



Many of the ancient structures of the medieval period of the Meenas have been either destroyed or replaced. However, the 16th century impressive edifice of the Amer Fort and the palace complex within it built by the Rajput Maharajas are very well preserved.



The fort is divided into four main sections each with its own entry gate and courtyard. Main entry is through the Suraj Pole (Sun Gate) which leads to Jaleb Chowk, which is the first main courtyard. This was the place where armies would hold victory parades with their war bounty on their return from battles, which were also witnessed by the Royal family women folk through the latticed windows. This gate was built exclusively and was provided with guards as it was the main entry into the palace. It faced the eastern direction towards the rising Sun and hence the name. Royal cavalcades and dignitaries entered the palace through this gate.



Jaleb Chowk is an Arabic usage, which means a place for soldiers to assemble. This is one of the four courtyards of the Amer Palace, which was built during Sawai Jai Singh’s reign (1693–1743 AD). The Maharaja's personal bodyguards held parades here under the command of the army commander or Fauj Bakshi. The Maharaja used to inspect the Guards contingent. At this location, the horse stables were also



(information taken from Wikipedia)







This fort, along with Jaigarh Fort, located immediately above on the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) of the same Aravalli range of hills, is considered as one complex, as the two are well connected by a subterranean passage. This passage was meant as an escape route in times of war for the royal family members and others in the Amer Fort to shift to the more redoubtable Jaigarh Fort. The fort, rugged and similar in structural design to the Amber Fort, is also known as Victory Fort. It has a length of 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) along the north-south direction and a width of 1 kilometre (0.62 mi). The fort features a cannon named “Jaivana”, which was manufactured in the fort precincts and was then the world's largest cannon on wheels. The palace complex (Laxmi Vilas, Lalit Mandir, Vilas Mandir and Aram Mandir) located within the fort has a well-tended garden where the royal family resided, the Shubhat Niwas (an assembly hall of the warriors), an armoury and a museum. Jaigarh Fort and Amber Fort are connected by subterranean passages and considered as one complex







We finally got to the entrance of the underground tunnel to head to Jaighar fort. Inside the tunnel we were checked for our tickets and then a guard told us to follow him. Wondering where he would take us and thinking this would cost us some money we followed him with a little distrust. It turned out that he wanted to show us how on the top roofs of the tunnel there lived zillions of bats and were sleeping at that time. It was very dark, kind of chilly and it made a good hiding place for bats. While Kyle was taking pictures I wandered around looking and hoping that no bat would get scared of the flash and start flying by us like crazy. If there is one animal I do not like is bats! We tipped the guard a few rupees and continued our walk though the tunnel which was short and then it turned into a very narrowed open pathway. We reached the exit of the pathway and were in a large open kind of terrace that lead to a steep hill. We started our way up and got sidetracked by a sight seeing viewpoint so we stopped for photos and then decided to cut some distance by going uphill through a dirt and rocky trail. It was a little hard for me because I was not wearing my hiking shoes nor sandals, but a pair of cheap Thai mary jane kind of shoes. I managed to climb all the way up and reached the top to see a bunch of monkeys, dogs, cows and goats walking by. We paid an extra fee for one camera and headed in with soldier who apparently knew lots about the fort and so was kind of a tour guide. Apparently this fort, jaighar was privately owned and that is why we had to ay extra. It belonged to the daughter of one of the old kings and now Jaughar fort and the city palace are part of their family heir. We went to an open courtyard and one one of the sides there was a roof building, which had some glass panels and inside there were replicas of the king´s and his family house furniture. Then we walked to another area and say some cannonballs and finally reached the end of the fort where there was the oldest and biggest on wheels cannon. It was huge! After about 3.5 hours wondering around we headed out to look for our tuk tuk driver.







We told out tuk tuk driver we wanted to see the Pink City which was basically the old city of Jaipur and a famous 5 story building all painted In pink, which looked more like orange to us, but oh well to India it was pink. We headed to the old city and immediately say the 5 story building, which was restored just on the outside to look the same through all the city walls. On the bottom of the building there were stores, shops, restaurants, and places to get souveniers, food and more. Driving along the way we saw a huge chaos city. A real Indian city I should say. Cars, tuk tuks and motorcyles going in both directions, men riding elephants and camels, cows, goats and other animals on the street. The honks of the crazy drivers beeping at different tones and rhythms, the people shouting selling food, and other items; it was crazy madness. Finally, we reached the back of the famous Hawa Majal paid a small feel and climbed through a narrowed and steep rounded staircase up to the top. When we got out the view of the city was incredible and all around us we could see why it is called Pink City. All Jaipur was painted in this pinkish, orange kind of color. It felt quiet, relaxing to be up there and leave the craziness of India for a tiny little bit of time away from us. We headed down and told out driver we wanted to see monkey´s temple. But to our not surprise the driver had scheduled some touristic traps for us. He was taking us to a fabric, clothes, bags fabric to see the silk made in Jaipur. Then he took us to another one where they made jewelry out of stones. By the time it was getting dark and we really were not interested so we blew the owner off by saying we did not want to see the jewelry and headed out the door. The driver was going to take us to his fathers shop but we said no firmly and finally he took us to what looked like a big slump. It was almost 7 o´clock and dark and he dropped us off at a small alley where two kids about teenagers started to talk us into giving us a tour of the monkey temple. We agreed to give them some money, whatever we felt like giving to them at the end of the ¨tour¨. I was a little nervous as we were the only foreigners and it rally looked like a slump. I guess being from Venezuela makes me more aware of where to go and where not to go and even though I was with Kyle and I knew we were safe and ok because it was not a close area I was a little nervous and kept by Kyle´s side all the time. The monkey temple was at the top of a hill and it was basically all in ruins. Now there was only a small room where people chant and pray but the main area is all in ruins. We watch from the rooftop as the day ended and the night sky filled the city. In the distance we heard a siren and when we looked around we saw a massive bus on fire. It had big hot red and yellow flames and a big cloud of gray smoke. It started to come down and then we heard a big boom kind of sound. The fire truck that was zooming around and which we though was going towards the burning bus suddenly turned around and went just past it. We walked and took some pictures but soon there was nothing else to see and so we headed down to find the tuk tuk driver.







The tuk tuk driver wanted to take us again to his family business but we said we were tired and wanted to find a hotel. He kindly took us to pick up our bags and to search for a cheaper hotel. When we got to the hotel we got off the tuk tuk and were about to give him the 600 rupees we had agreed to pay him for the day when the guy realized that we had spend more than what he actually had said and wanted about 3000 rupees. We, well me, started to argue with the driver about all we , Kyle and me and him had said and specifically about this one line the driver said ¨ 600 rupees plus gas and if you like my service you give me whatever tip you want and if you do not like my service you pay me nothing. ¨Well of course what was our surprise, he had forgotten this personal quote. We ended up paying him about 900 and left to go inside the hotel. I was so pissed!! Lesson learned, never believe a tuk tuk driver and make sure to agreed on number of hours, gas, parking, and tip before you leave for the tour.







We got our hotel room, unpacked and showered. We went out to get some snacks and drinks and then headed to our room to relax for the evening!







The next morning we decided to have a lazy day and slept in and had a nice breakfast and headed out the door to wander around the city and try to find souveniers and a post office to mail my 20 or so post cards to family and friends. We headed out the hotel with a clear view of where we wanted to go, but not actually any plans. We wandered around passing through a large main street full of small stores and saw lots of abandoned construction sites. For my time in India I have realized how similar the country is to my home country Venezuela. The traffic was insane. There were no sidewalks and so we had to walk on the edge of the street one behind the other and cars would drive by so fast they would almost hit us. By noontime, we had found the post office and mailed our post cards and were starving. So we started to look for a place to eat. We first got in a hotel, which had a big sign advertising an authentic Indian restaurant, but when we got in the restaurant was so empty it gave us a bad idea and also the prices were extremely expensive. So we wandered off. Then we thought we saw a small street food place but it as a butcher and so we kept walking. Finally, we saw what looked like an American pizza place and we got in. The place seemed nice but it was really loud as there was a group of middle school girls celebrating a birthday and lord were they loud! We settled for a large pizza and a large jug of sprite. It was good and we were hungry. When we finished we went to Jaipur´s bazaar area to wander and find souveniers. The bazaar was jus like other Indian bazaars narrowed streets with vendors on both sides. Every other corner you would see a chai vendor and so we had to have our street chai in Jaipur. It was actually very good. We walked through a few alleys and then headed back to the hotel realizing we were not going to find any souveniers in this area. We walked back to our hotel and took a shower, packed up and sat at the rooftop bar eating some delicious pakora, and chapatti with chai as we waited until it was time to leave for our night train to Jaisaimer.

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