Into the Fire

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March 28th 2006

Published: April 19th 2006

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Hawa Mahal

When last I wrote, I was about to bid farewell to the eternal Taj Majal to begin the heavily touristed Rajastan circuit. Well, I'd like to clarify that statement. It is heavily touristed *in the right season*. It is unlikely that the present time would qualify as that. I deliberated for quite a while about whether I was prepared to endure the 100 - 110 degree weather that I could expect. (that's 38-43 for the non-Americans reading this). It would be, I decided, a character building experience. Besides, it is a dry heat, which makes it much more tolerable, and I could bail out at any time I wanted, and go to the mountains, which aren't that far to the north.

Rajastan, which translates to "Land Of Kings" was so named because of the high concentration of Maharajas presiding over wealthy small states. They were constantly warring with one another, or with outside forces, so there are many mighty forts and spectacular palaces dotting the region. The climate of Rajastan ranges from dry plains, suitable for growing grain (with irrigation), to barren, sandy desert, and its culture has developed to make best use of the assets it does possess. Different

Jantar Mantar

Astronomical Observatory / Modern Art Sculpture Playground

parts were conquered by Mughals and other Muslim forces from the north west, from about 1000 AD until about 1700, when the last of them were driven out just as Europe began its conquests. The architecture is an exotic combination of Hindu and Mughal styles. The people enliven the soft tan colors of the desert by wearing shockingly bright clothing, women donning finely embroidered silk saris in saffron, green, yellow, blue, purple and red, and men wearing brightly colored turbans. It is quite a sight to look out the window of the train and see a straw-yellow field of grain peppered with a little fireworks display of electric color from the clothing of the people in the field.

My first stop was Jaipur, the capital of Rajastan and its largest city at 2.3 million. I expected it to be in the desert, but it really isn't. It's dusty and hot, and most of the buildings, especially in the old city, are painted a pink-peach color, thus earning Jaipur its reputation as "The Pink City". I was traveling with an Irish chap who I met in the train on the way to Agra. The train ride took about five hours

More Jantar Mantar

The giant sundial

(all the cities in this area are about five hours apart... Funny) but it cost us 7 because it pulled in two hours late. I should note that in my experience, this isn't typical. Most trains arrive within 30 minutes of the scheduled time. We checked in to a guest house with a lovely garden with birds chirping, backpackers like ourselves all around. Jaipur's big enough that it's not terribly pedestrian-friendly. We hired a rickshaw to show us around. The big attractions here are the City Palace, Hawa Mahal, the Jantar Mantar Astronomical Observatory (this might sound familiar to those who read the last entry. There were 5 Jantar Mantars built around 1730 by Sawaii Jai Singh , but Jaipur's is supposed to be the most elaborate. I got some great surreal photos while I was there. I think this was the first day that the heat began to feel really oppressive. I bought a somewhat silly-looking white cricket hat to keep the sun off of my head and neck, and keep me a bit cooler, since dark hair isn't really ideal for dissipating the sun's heat. One of the must see's when you visit Jaipur is is

Guards

At the Jaipur City Palace. Can you believe there are still moustaches like that in this world?

the neighboring town of Amber, which has a mighty fort perched on a spiny, rocky hill. I've included one photo of this, but I didn't get any really great ones because the sun was coming from behind the fort.

I was fortunate to stumble into Jaipur during the 10-day Rajastan festival put on, I suspect, partly to attract tourists during the off season. On the last day of the festival, they had a grand parade, featuring dancers, musicians, camels, elephants, dozens of floats representing the different cities, and a surprise visit from Prince Charles and Duchess Camilla. Evidently, Charlie is a polo buddy of the Bundi Maharaja. Never let them tell you that aristocracy is dead.

Jaipur is pleasant, but I found it a little bit too big and the vendors too pushy to form a bond with it. I stayed there three days, about a day more than I needed to. I started to develop a rhythm for my travel, that is, knowing when to stay, and when to move on. From Jaipur, most people go west to Pushkar, a charming village on a lake which is good for relaxing and drinking bhang lassis (a drink made

King Bling

Collosal silver urn, used by the majaraja to carry holy Ganges water on long trips. In the city palace.

from yogurt and marijuana), Udaipur or Jodhpur. I decided that I would rather go in a different direction and gamble on the chance of seeing a Bengal Tiger in Rathambore National Park, about two hours South of the Pink City. I arrived by train in the completely-untouristed agricultural village of Sawai Madhopur, where camel carts overburdened with sacks of grain share the road with rickshaw-trucks and mopeds. It was nice not to be greeted by a screaming wall of taxi drivers trying to be heard over the cacophony of the others. I was hoping to go on two drives through the park to improve my chances of seeing interesting wildlife, but I missed the afternoon safari because of another late train, and the stupid way that they book trips there. So, I checked in at the suggestively-named Pink Palace and took a stroll around town. I spent about an hour visiting all the places that had signs advertising internet access, only to be met by shrugs and head wobbles or vague directions to other places without internet access. There was not a single internet joint working in town, and nothing that really would quailfy as a restaurant. This was slightly

Amber Fort

My best shot of the impressive amber fort. It was backlit, man. Get off my case.

disappointing, but, of course, as you are probably thinking, this is to be expected when traveling in a part of the world like this, and moreover, is often a very good thing, as it forces you to concentrate on things that you would otherwise be distracted from. True. I was nice to have a vacation from my travels.

I had to get up painfully early the next morning (4:45) to get a spot on a canter (like a bus with the top chopped off that holds 20 people) for a tour of the park. It wasn't that hard to get up, since I didn't sleep that well after a rat hopped on my bed then jumped out of the window. The park's not really suitable to see by foot. I was a little annoyed, because the bus wasn't scheduled to leave until 6:30, and it didn't actually leave until 7, which should have let me sleep at least until daylight broke. The trip was nice - the park looked a bit dry, owing, I suspect, to this being the dry season. There were plenty of different deer (aka tiger bait) roaming about, and I saw a crocodile, an owl,

View From Amber Fort

many peococks, and hogs. But, sadly, no tigers. I considered staying for the afternoon ride, but I decided that I would rather keep moving. I'll have plenty of other chances to see tigers, but I didn't want to get stuck in that town and spend another night with my rodent roommate.

So, I jumped back on the train and headed for the charming town of Bundi. Bundi is an irresistably charming little town in southern Rajastan. It is not one of the towns on the main Rajastan circuit that everyone stops at, so the character of the vendors is much less aggressive, and the tenor of the town is quiet and relaxed. In the three days that I was there, I saw two parades, with a marching band wending through the pastel painted narrow streets, followed by a crowd of women in brightly-colored saris: red, blue, peach, yellow. There is a fairy-tale palace perched on the cliff that overlooks the city. I decided to splurge getting the a cheapest room in an historic haveli (old mansion) in town, a gorgeous place called Haveli Braj Bhushanjee. I bargained him down from 700 rupees to 400 (About $9). The room wasn't

Holy Monkeys

These monkeys inhabit the gardens on the grounds of the amber fort. This dignified looking fellow is munching on a piece of naan bread given to him by a visitor.

big or deluxe, but was decorated with lovely antiques and stone carvings, and the courtyard was beautiful and peaceful. First, I went to the palace, which had some glorious murals. The building was left untended for for hudreds of years, and became the abode of thousands of bats. It still isn't fully restored, and you can still see the bats sleeping, upside down, in some of the darker recesses of the ceiling. The fort, above the palace and on top of the ridge, is completely unrestored, a fascinating place to walk around. There's no guidance and little information, but it is a massive ancient work. Another thing Bundi is known for is its tanks and step wells. I'm not totally sure why you build a step well rather than a regular one, but they sure do look spectacular. I've included a photo of the one I found most impressive.

On my second night there, I was very fortunate to witness a procession celebrating Gangaur, the Hindu festival of marriage. It was an enchanting spectacle - traditional, exuberant music played at deafening volume, followed by two rows of children, each holding a long, glowing fluorescent light tube, all bound together

Citibank

In Hindi. I thought it was funny.

by electric wires. In between the two rows of lights was a a carriage with a symbolic family (maybe the Maharaja of Bundi?), a band, then hordes of men and women dressed in their finest and brightest festival saris and suits. Bringing up the rear was a diesel generator powering all the lights and the loudspeakers. I followed them for about half a mile. Really beautiful.

Well, I'll wrap this entry up here, and undertake to start on the next one forthwith. I am determined to catch up with my actual movements. I hope you are all well, and I apologize, as always, for boring you. My current location is Bikaner, if you are curious, and I an taking a long overnight bus to Amritsar tonight, to see the Golden Temple, holiest place of the Sikh Religion.

Best wishes to all,
Dan

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