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Published: April 16th 2009
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April 16, 2009, Toronto
I am actually writing this from my home computer in Toronto. I didn't get a chance to write a last entry -- mostly about my few days in Jaipur and Delhi -- before leaving India.
I spent my last day in Jaipur being a tourist. I went to the Amber Fort with Frances, another guest at Rawla Guest House. Although we left quite early, at 9 a.m., it was already growing hot. I am lucky I like the heat, especially the dry heat of north India. (Of course, there are few things I don't like about India ... the only thing that comes to mind is the habit of eating supper very late at night, especially true in Delhi. That is my number one pet peeve. For me it's even worse than being pursued by limbless beggars at train stations. Of course I don't like the poverty in India, who does, but I have leanred to accept it. You have to or you will go mad if you spend a lot of time in the country.)
I was at Amber Fort before, three years ago when I was in Jaipur with Caryl, but only
at night. This time I was able to see it by the (very bright) light of day. Our driver dropped us off and we went up to the hill-top fort by elephant. It was my first time on an elephant, but it didn't really feel like anything special to be honest. The howdah -- if that's what it's called -- that you sit on effectively separates you from the elephant. It just feels like a slow ambling bumpy ride. There was a long line of elephants going up and down the massive ramp, and I looked closely at the faces of some of the elephants coming towards us to see if I could detect any emotion. Were they suffering from the long hot climb?
Frances was suffering. He is French, from Paris, and he was quite disturbed by all the hawkers trying to sell him hats, souvenirs, guide services. I have become good at ignoring these people and they leave me alone. But he is new to India and hasn't developed all the skills necessary to make travel in India smoother and more enjoyable yet.
Finally we reached the top and toured the fort, which is very impressive
-- but, to my mind, doesn't come anywhere near matching the fort in Jodhpur for amazing architecture, interior decor, culture, romance and history. I took loads of pictures and tried to keep out of the direct sun and had a good time with Frances. Like me, he loved the fort and it's romantic., majestic and Arabian-nights infused courtyards, gardens, pavilions and public spaces. But like me, he equally loved finding a cafe perched on the edge of the fort with a spectacular view. We sipped iced tea under an umbrella and enjoyed the break and the view.
On the way back we stopped at a lovely temple garden, with a water course and fountains running through it. The design of the garden was Mughal-inspired. There really is nothing like a Mughal water garden in the desert. It cannot be beat for romance and luxury. I sat under a covered pavilion in the centre and enjoyed the soothing sound of the water as Frances roamed around. Then it was time to go for lunch and, afterwards, catch my train to Delhi, the Ajmer Shatabdi.
I like Jaipur, but it is a very challenging city as there are five million
people crowded into a space designed for many less. It must have been amazing when it was first built. There are many things to do and see (and buy!), but the crowds, the traffic and the pollution are tough to take. Much like Delhi.
In Delhi, I went back to the Sri Aurobindo ashram to spend my last few days. I was planning to do some shopping, socializing and sight-seeing, but all my plans came to nought as I developed Delhi-belly. So typical. I was all over north India and never got sick, and then I go back to Delhi and eat in people's homes and five-start hotels (which should be the safest places) and I got sick! However, I discovered it was not Delhi-belly as antibiotics did not cure me. I think it was a virus and it just had to run its course. I am better today, but I had it for about six days, including during my 28 hours of travel (door-to-door, from Delhi to Toronto). Not fun.
So I just relaxed at the ashram and at my friend Sonia's house for the last few days. It gave me time to reflect on my trip
and how very life-changing it was. In fact, maybe I got sick as part of a "detoxification" process. It's highly possible. I let go of a lot in India -- including a stressful relationship, a "frozen" heart and about 10 extra pounds I didn't need (I'm at my "fighting weight" now -- yippeee!).
For me India is an amazing place. I find it both very healing and very inspiring. My heart opened in India and I really experienced love. I became so much clearer about my path and my goals. I made some big decisions about personal relationships and my future. And I engaged with India, and with Indian people, at a deeper and more profound level than ever before. India is really under my skin now, and I know my future is inextricably bound with her.
This Indian journey has been a constant surprise and revelation for me and it is never-ending. In fact, I think I am just at the beginning. E.M. Forster said: "Life is indeed dangerous, but not in the way morality would have us believe. It is indeed unmanageable, but the essence of it is not a battle. It is unmanageable because it
is a romance, and its essence is romantic beauty." I completely agree, and that is the basis on which I travel in India. The essence of my Indian experience is romantic beauty.
So, I left India feeling very calm and satisfied. As I said to my friend, I got my money's worth from my trip! And because I know I am going back, I left India for the first time feeling very upbeat and positive. I didn't feel the usual sadness or grief. My heart is feeling wonderfully alive and open within my chest, but it is powerfully connected to India. And those connections will continue to draw me back.
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isha
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Jaipur--- Ghoom lo
jaipur also known as pink city. nice blog. you can also get more information from ghoomlo dot com treavel site