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Published: December 22nd 2013
16th December
Early departure and goodbye to Mr Harinder as we were catching the Shabati Express train to Amritsar. Mr Harinder had lots of our stuff as we were fedexing all our wedding gear plus a bit of shopping back to Uk and he was taking care of it. This was a 6 hour train journey but due to really bad fog, turned into 7 hours. The train had seen better days but was comfortable and as we were in 1st class we had great service though Sal in particular was not keen on drinking anything as the horrors of what the loo might be like weren't even up for consideration. We were given litre bottles of water, then we each got a flask of boiling water and cups to make our own tea and coffee. Kelloggs cornflakes came next though it was hot milk on offer, we then had some nice sort of naan bread and lentils which were a bit spicy for that time of day and yoghurt, all really tasty.
Our guide was on the platform to meet us, his name was Jaswinder or Jesse for short, our new driver was Palkuj with his assistant Raju.
Most Indian coaches have driver and assistant, we don't know why that wasn't the case previously. We went to our hotel which again was a huge family home, looking like it hadn't changed for 100+ years it was beautiful! the furniture, lights, cushions, curtains, all beautiful and everything looked valuable, but we didn't have much time to enjoy it, after a lovely cup of hot herbal something, we were off to Wagah which is the border point between India and Pakistan and each night they have a border closing ceremony which really is some sight - it must be on you tube. 100's of very patriotic Indians come who are whipped into a frenzy by this guy whilst the tallest of the Indian army with their very elaborate headgear try and keep things under control. The Pakistan side has far less spectators and no party atmosphere for them though the soldiers are equally tall and in elaborate headgear. The music is turned up and the Crowd are up dancing. Eventually it starts and the first thing is a coach goes through carrying passengers to Pakistan, there is one coach each way each day and in a strange way it was
moving as you knew this could be separated families meeting up for the first time in ages. There is a lot of posturing and high kick marching, literally kicking above their heads, the tiller girls would be envious. They march towards the gate including 2 females from the army which is something that wouldn't happen in Pakistan. We don't think there is a ceremony like this anywhere else in the world. Eventually the flags are lowered and the gate is closed. We bought 2 DVDs for £1 showing the ceremony and once through all the stalls that are selling food, drink, clothing, toys, souvenirs etc, we were on our way to the Golden Temple.
This is the centre of the Sikh religion, every Sikh wants to make at least one visit here in their lifetime and what a wonderful place to see, it must be in 1000 things to see before you die and they are dead right. Jesse was very proud of his religion and wanted to convey his love for it to us and was very willing to answer all our questions, we found him very interesting.
Jane and Sal had heads covered, Col and Pete
could have had a little disposable head cover but decided to go the whole hog with turbans. Jesse took us to the shop to buy enough for a small turban, 3 metres each, the array of colours available was splendid and most people would have several turbans to match the rest of their outfit. Jesse did both of them very efficiently and quite a crowd had gathered to watch.
Having left our shoes, washed our hands and feet, we got our first glimpse of the temple which sits in the middle of the sacred lake, it was dark so the lighting made it quite spectacular. People were standing looking or kneeling or flat on their stomachs. Jesse got down the step to the water, cupped some water in his hand, drank it and put the rest over his head, he said he does that every day. Some people got in the water as they believe it has powers.
People were very curious to see us and many came up to shake hands and say how much they appreciated Pete and Col wearing the turbans. Col seemed to take on some role of reverently nodding at people, they must
have felt extra blessed! The priests were singing from inside the temple which was on loudspeakers all around and translations appeared on screens, which added to the atmosphere. We walked up the walkway to the temple itself where the priests were, it is small but spectacular, people are sitting and kneeling all over the temple, both inside and out in quiet contemplation. It really did have a very special feel and we were made to feel very welcome in there. At 10pm the scriptures that the priest has been reading from is put to bed. A small golden cart is decorated we loads of fresh flowers, wheeled up the walkway accompanied by chanting and a horn playing, the book is placed on it, wheeled back to a lovely white building where it has it's own bed ad bedroom.
We then went on to the kitchen, it is the largest free kitchen in the world catering for about 50,000 people per day - amazing, all run by volunteers and it is an incredible operation. People sit on long strips of carpet in rows and the food comes to them, Jesse commandeered the water dispenser and had Col going up and
down the row.... Those receiving the water looked slightly puzzled at the bloke in a turban delivering it!
17th December
Having spent far too little time in our beautiful heritage hotel, we set off for Pragpur. It was extremely foggy......next driving lesson....... How to drive in the fog. Answer, exactly the same as before, the fact that you had a visibility of about 5 yards should not make one iota of difference, as you overtake, not being able to seen the boot of the car in front, treat it as a surprise that there is another car in front of that and some other silly sod doing the same coming towards you......I speak for all of us when I say there was a lot of buttock clenching going on. We stopped on the way and ordered black coffees and got this revolting cup of creamy sugary liquid, it had taken ages to get that ordered so tried to drink a bit not to be rude.
Pragpur was gorgeous, our beautiful hotel was a grand family home owned by Mr and Mrs Lal. Pragpur was a heritage village and was quite a surprise, narrow cobbled stone streets with
some grand old houses, some in good condition and some derelict, shopkeepers all happy to say hello and let us have a look without pouncing on us and following us. We had asked for an early dinner as often they eat quite late. They were reluctant and we realised why when we went downstairs there was a roaring fire going on the back lawn inside a big container and all the guests meet for aperitifs. 4 ladies were staying there who we recognised from the train the day before, all of them very wealthy from Delhi but interesting to talk to. Mr and Mrs Lal were there too, the drink was flowing together with hot nibbles and a man from the village wandering about playing a flute creating a lovely atmosphere.
It was quite chilly, we had left heaters on in our rooms but when we eventually got to bed, hot water bottles had been put in them, so snuggley, they were lovely and very much appreciated. Both of the last two hotels would be lovely for a chill out week, unfortunately just overnight stops for us and we are all getting sick of the sight of our suitcases!
18th December
We drove through similar mountainous countryside as the day before, sheer drops and hairpin bends make no difference to the standard of driving and the need to overtake anything and everything plus monkeys everywhere who play chicken.
Our new driver was certainly an entrant for whacky races and didn't use the horn as much which probably wasn't a good thing as there was no warning to other drivers that he was about to make a dangerous manoeuvre. We stopped at a Sikh temple, again, people were pleased to see us though we just stayed in the precincts there was plenty to see not least the shops selling the bangles, wooden comb and dagger that each Sikh should wear/carry.
Our destination was Chandigarth which was about a 4/5 hour drive, our new driver, Palkuj wasn't Mr Harinder, who ensured we had stops in the best that was available, yesterday's stop at least had a reasonable toilet, today we stopped at the temple but there was nowhere for us to eat as though we are more adventurous than when we first arrived, we try to be sensible and careful and none of
us were going to chance the loo. He also didn't know where we were staying and was always stopping to ask for directions, not great. Our hotel was a querky modern place in a busy city and not much of interest so we were grateful for an early dinner and early night. There are always formalities when we check in, they need passports and visas which we have copies ready for them, there are forms and more forms and always a big ledger to complete. They always ask where we have travelled from and where our next destination is, Jane was answering the questions on this occasion.... Travelled from Pragpur, he wrote down Delhi.... Travelling to Hardiwar and he wrote down Delhi!
19th December
We left early the following morning as we had asked several people how long the journey would take and the answers varied from 4 to 5 to 6 to 7 hours so thought we had better get going. Almost opposite our nice warm, comfortable hotel we realised was a dreadful slum, fires were burning as it was cold and foggy yet almost on the roadside, people were having a real good all
over wash in what must have been a cold water communal washing area. A young girl walked out of the slum dressed in her smart school uniform, we find it hard to deal with and hard to look at yet they just get on with surviving.
The journey today was about 4/5 hours to Hardiwar and Pankuj decided to stop for a break, hurray! It was an absolute shithole, literally that was the lavatory facilities, a hole for your shit, pitch black, probably stank but you weren't going to breathe in there. They didn't do coffee, not sure what they did it was all filthy and we weren't risking that!
We stooped somewhere else where there was another Sikh temple, fortunately he couldn't get the van up the narrow street so we walked through this delightful little town, nice shops, clean and no hassle from hawkers or shopkeepers, we doubt they saw many tourists and all wanted us to take their photo. A small shawl shop caught our eye and we went in, it was run by two lovely brothers who spoke good English as their sister lives in Cranford near to Heathrow. We
drove up into the mountains again and could clearly see where torrents of water had come down the mountains in June this year taking everything in its path including complete villages and about 40,000 lives, all seemed so calm now.
Hardiwar is the second most important place for a Hindu to visit after Varanassi. The Ganges runs through it though a bit set up as rivers were dry everywhere but here with a number of dams it runs at a very fast pace. We were staying at another lovely Haveli, our lovely rooms had a huge area looking out over the river. Our vehicle delivered us to a drop off area where rickshaws took us and our bags to the hotel.......even stronger thighs.
There is a ceremony to the gods each evening and the hotel have a priest come and take guests to it. The narrow little streets, packed with tiny shops selling all sorts of bright and glitzy stuff were vibrant. We got to the area for the ceremony, full of people, we had to leave our shoes. We were taken to our ghat, steps into the river and were expected to get
in, rolling up the trousers on a very cold and slippery marble floor, in we went, Jane and Sal convinced we would end up, arse over tip completely in it! People were buying little bowls of flowers and wood which they set alight and floated down the river, it was so fast flowing they were out of sight quickly, people were offering milk and pouring that in plus it is the place where people want their ashes scattered though we didn't see that. Our private ghat turned into a free for all when holy men holding these large things that were on fire pushed their way past to the rivers edge followed by people all trying to hold the thing on fire, Sal was stuck in the middle and nearly got pushed back down the steps and Jane was in danger of loosing her eyebrows as they pushed past. We didn't really have any idea what was going on but the singing/chanting was good to listen to and it was quite a spectacle, our priest disappeared so we didn't know what his purpose was either! Grateful and surprised and of course relieved of some money, we were reunited with our
shoes.
20th December
We had a guide for the next day so hoped to make sense of it all, he was late by 45 minutes..... Worst sin of a guide! Didn't even say sorry. He said we were going to one of the most important Hindu temples in Hardiwar, off we went, he didn't say a word. We got off the van, he wandered along, saying nothing, if we asked a question he would answer it but with just a few words. We went in the temple, we came out, he said nothing...... We had obviously booked the quiet contemplative tour. By us asking questions we got some response but he spoke quietly so as a group we missed it. Back on the bus and off to Rishikesh smaller and quieter than Hardiwar, he didn't say a word for the entire journey, the only time he appeared to liven up was when we noticed one of the monkeys had lost both arms and was walking upright.
Rishikesh was where Charles and Camilla visited a couple of months ago. We walked over a bridge crossing the Ganges, the bridge was built by the British, quite narrow, full of
motorbikes, people and monkeys. He then got us in a jeep and we shot off with this complete idiot of a driver, hand on horn, foot to the floor, jerking us about, it was a few minutes journey and was horrible. Having nearly crashed, we got out, Col was furious, a rare sight. Are you a professional driver, you should be ashamed of yourself said Col, the boss came over and apologised, it cost us a whole 80p!
We wandered around the very tranquil streets, visiting the ashram that Charles and Camilla went to and the holy man that had invited them was conducting a service which we were able to watch.
We would have to wait a while to get the boat back to the other side though we could charter it for ourselves, 200 rupees - £2!
Our guide said he would take us back to Hardiwar and visit the temple at the top of the mountain, which we hadn't realised is the beginning of the Himalayas. The temple is accessed by cable car and as Sal said she didn't like cable cars he took it that we wouldn't go, so we were surprised when
we arrived back at the car park for our hotel.... We had all had enough so gave him minimum tip and started walking back to the hotel with him following as he was after feedback, everywhere we go the number one priority is everybody wants a tip, the country survives on tips but number 2 is feedback, filing in little questionnaires, so at this point we had to inform him he was rubbish and if you are going to work as a tourist guide it really is important to talk to people :-(. Anyway! The up side was we had a bit of time to relax though Sal and Col went for an Indian head and foot massage which found aches and pains we didn't know we had and then went back to watch the ceremony again from the other side of the Ganges where we could see more of it rather than being on the same side. Some chap led us to a little area with a table which he made Col climb on and a ladder for Sal so we had a great view, if anybody tried to join us. He shooed them away!
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Bill and Sue
non-member comment
Wonderful.....
Sounds like you're having a full on experience of India. Recruit the bloke in the Jeep for Best Marigold Sainsbury Delivery Driver... the Martinis would be "shaken, not stirred" on arrival. What more could one desire? Have a great Christmas if we're not in touch beforehand. All the best Bill and Sue xx