13 January and onwards......

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13/01
Taking advantage of our new found freedom, biked out to a crocodile reserve; hundreds of crocs, alligators, caymen etc, rescued for eventual release into the wild. Meantime they all lie about in swamps/pools, basking in the sun and keeping an eye out for stray children who may fall over the 3ft wall which separates them from the public. Truly, there is just a very shallow ditch, small wall and some chicken wire between them and a fast food take away....some of these things are 25+ ft long and can move at 30mph...The security gates used to feed them are literally latch gates, most of them left open....Ken Livingston and the Health and Safety police would have a fit....Spent a happy couple of hours wandering round til one of the egrets,which apparently groom parasites off the crocs, dumped directly on my head from a great height....we're not talking pigeon poop here either.

14/01
Biked to Tirukalikundram Shiva temple, perched on rock 3 times higher than Glastonbury Tor, which is accessed by 400 stone steps. Intended to climb up as the view is said to be spectacular, but stopped at the entrance and asked to remove shoes. 83 degrees plus heat and a steep climb - decided not to bother...

15/01
Took cab down to Pondicherry as next port of call. First day of the national Pongol Festival, sort of harvest festival (it's winter here), locals get the only national day off. Spotted a float festooned with garlands on the way in, turned out to be a coffin born by friends/relatives on the way to burial - everything here is a celebration. Booked in at Soorya Hotel, 3 stars, impressive marble foyer, room like Prisoner Cell Block H with complementary cockroaches...Don't go there.

Moved on swiftly next day to Vatika Guest Home (www.vatikaguesthome.com) - check out web site and weep...Turns out owner is into Sri Auribindo, this town is dominated by the ashram and all its works, sort of commune affair with businesses/hotels/guest houses etc - all very worthy (where have I seen this sort of thing before?). Rough Guide comments that Auroville, the hub of the community and 'New Age' settlement has 'disproportionate influence on local affairs...' Say no more. Most of residents are French ex pats or Auribindo devotees, tend to be a bit exclusive (again , where have I seen this before?).
Anyway, this is the nearest Ken is every likely to get to staying in an ashram, no smoking/alcohol allowed and owner likes you to be home tucked up in bed by 10.30. Now we know why the kids left home....Not much else to do round here, so none of this a problem, but looking forward to moving to pastures new, once we've collected our new glasses from local optician (45 pounds all found for both of us)

17/01
Booked coach to Cochin on 22/01. Went and had a look at Auroville (www.auroville.org - check out yourselves if you are inclined) Ended up in the boutique where all clothes handmade by devotees/fare trade etc. (think Monsoon).Money was spent, things were bought...
Rode bike in Pondi after dark today, never again, suicidal after dusk.

19/01
After breakfast, walked back up to our room reading a pamphlet on Ayervedic treatments in Kerala which I want to try, climbed to next floor by accident and let myself in to what I thought was our room, to be met by an elderly French chappie brushing his teeth, totally naked...not good for entente cordial...Time to move on...

20/01
Saw my forst elelphant outside a zoo! Huge animal, plodding patiently behind her mahout, no chains, just bells...not often one gets the chance to shout 'Quick, follow that elephant!' in the middle of a high street....

Went to Paradise Beach, reached by boat ride on river down to long sandbank on Bay of Bengal - sea as warm as bathwater, sea eagles flying over head, Indian women sitting in the surf fully clothed in saris - bit of a quandary here; swimsuit appropriate or not? Decided not and went in with clothes on....you know what they say about bathing with your socks on, well this was worse...looked around and saw whole bunch of western women letting it all hang out, as usual my timing was out..

21/01
Ken met group of bikers and wives at start of 3 week tour of S india on Royal Enfield bikes - usually this would present a stately procession as they cruised into town, apparently this lot were visibly shaken by the mental traffic situation...may catch up with them in Cochin, if they make it that far..

Went for a sundowner at posh hotel nearby - squatting right alongside this shining edifice is a scruffy little temple devoted to Marrimar (no idea...) Devotees were squatting in the street, singing their hearts out, tablas and flutes, kids painted and dressed up, drowning out the hotel musac. Seemed like some political statement was being made...went down to watch, and in a fit of generosity Ken handed over 100 rupees donation - sounds impressive, but only about 1.50 in 'real' money - to put in perspective, a doctor earns about 6000 rupees p/w, = 80 pound sterling. Vast majority of population subsist on much much less - however there is no starvation.....After donation, 2 chairs magically appeared and we sat to watch the show.....Mentioned it to our landlady on our return, she didn/t seem impressed, have the impression that Sri Auribindo dominates the area to the detriment of the smaller, less wealthy sects...Different strokes for different folks, plenty of room here for diversity to my mind.

22/01
Went to Ganesh Temple down the road, to visit the elephant we saw the other day - apparently the current earthly incarnation of the god Ganesh. She was standing at the entrance to the temple on a low plinth, unfettered and decorated with paint and bells. Devotees hand her bananas and fruit, and if they offer a coin she takes it with her trunk, stores it in there then gently taps the donor on the head as a benediction.....Made Ken do it first, as I was too scared (this is a BIG elephant), then plucked up courage to offer a coin myself - she took it gently then touched my head, then something strange....came over all uneccesary (spelling?), to my embarrassment felt myself 'filling up' - absolutely no warning or reason, as had no preconceptions/expectations about the experience. Anyway, we've both been blessed by Ganesh now, which can't be bad.



Off now to pack for coaching to Cochin, more later no doubt, take care all. Keep comments coming Canice, you were the first! kencom,both slowly going brown ,bikes are great wind in the hair sun in your face ,a subcontinent to discover, our love to the good folk back home

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Comments

[Canice]

Interesting Times
Sent Andy on Holiday to Canaries on Tuesday morning. Booked it online for him out of the goodness of my heart. What a nightmare! Actual cost to him approx £500.00. Potential cost to me £660.00. Because of tech probs. we were assured the initial holiday was not booked, so we booked another one! only to find that the first one was booked! Took 4 days to sort! They will give him back his £660.00. Thank God. I would have felt obliged to make a gesture. You both seem much happier.