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Published: October 9th 2005
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Proof that we were There
For John who told me the pics were too good and we were taking snapshoots of postcards. UPDATE: Thanks to all who have expressed concern about our safety and the earthquake yesterday. Although Delhi did feel the quake, we were southeast of the city on our way to Agra when it happened. The quake was northwest of Delhi on the border of Pakistan and the death toll has topped 19,000.
It is Sunday morning and the last 48 hours have been one of the most stimulating experiences in either of our lives. As Lou and myself are fans of diverse experiences, being in India is like a warped trip to Disney World for us. The culture, sites, sounds, and smells are so unique to our backgrounds that each second is a revelation in itself. As I write this blog entry, we are lounging poolside surrounded by lush gardens and attendants, as we drink iced tea and relax. On the other side of the walled area are millions of people living in extreme poverty, disease, over-crowding, and traffic congestion. As bad as things may appear through my pampered eyes, the Indian people are a proud society who has a strong sense of dignity, faith, and mental well-being.
Yesterday we left Delhi early in the morning for a
A Tuk-Tuk
This is what Lou cruised around Delhi in. Nice Ride Lou 5 hour bus ride to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal. The 10 hour round trip included viewing two major accidents and one flat tire on our bus. We viewed millions of people on the over crowded streets and highways, many living in conditions which we would consider deplorable. Throughout the trip the cliché “here but by the grace of God go I” kept going through my mind. If ever I feel depressed and unfortunate, I will always think back on my trip through the slums of Delhi and recall what desperation really looked like. Surprisingly, almost everyone appeared happier that most people I see in the USA. And here my petty concern was that the showerhead in my hotel room was slightly clogged and not performing as well as it could, until I saw lines of people at a hand pump on the streets, stripping to their underwear to wash themselves. I am sure they would be amused by my small concerns.
With a population of almost 1 billion, India has about 1/6 of the world population. Labor is very cheap. For example having a car and driver will cost about $75 US dollars a month. We are
staying ay the Hyatt Regency, which is probably the nicest hotel in Delhi, and there is an attendant in even the remote public restrooms, who spends their shift standing (no chairs for them) and waiting for someone to come wash their hands so they can hand them a towel. I tend to be very generous with tipping while here as a 100 rupee tip for the taxi driver (about $2.50 US dollars) is equivalent to about one day wage for them.
So back to the trip to Agra, The 2 accidents we saw on the road were something else. The first was a truck carrying wine and beer, which flipped on its side. There were hundreds of smashed bottles in the road, and children digging through the glass to recover any unbroken bottles (which were lined up, single file down the road). The second accident was much worse. A truck had hit a three-wheel tuk-tuk (see picture of a tuk-tuk) and basically ran it over. As we went by, three dead bodies were laid out on the side of the road as people simple walked around. Lou stated that “life is cheap here” but I disagree. I think that
people very much value their life in this culture, but the Hindu’s believe that you are reincarnated until you lead the perfect life and then enter Nirvana. So death is not an unhappy event but just means that it is time for you to move into your next life.
So Lou thought he was bound for his next life as he took an hour ride through Delhi traffic in an effort to get back to the hotel before I returned from my meetings. The tuk-tuk’s do not travel as fast as cars or trucks, so they are constantly being squeezed between fast traveling vehicles and are small enough to maneuver into tight spots (although they seem to avoid driving on the sidewalks). A few beers quickly calmed Lou’s nerve-racking ride that night.
Again, back to Agra. The 10 hour ride had us viewing all sorts of modes of transportation. From camel drawn carts, to carts drawn by horses, donkey and water buffalo, to pedi-cabs (bicycle rickshaws), Tuk-tuks, motorcycles, hand propelled bicycles, and walking, this nation is on the move. Most cars and trucks have well over the maximum capacity of occupants (we would see a car the size
The Taj Mahal
In memory of undying love of a small Toyota Corolla with 8 people in it). Trucks would have 20 people riding in the truck bed. Everyone looked happy and the children would wave at us as we whizzed by in our air-conditioned bus. They seemed as much interested at looking at us as we were in seeing them. At times I felt like a fish in a bowl as the beggars and sellers would tap on the windows wanting us to open and barter or donate. The only thing that was sure to stop traffic flow was when a cow would cross the road; as cows are sacred animals and always have the right-of-way. I will be teaching this lesson to Lou’s cows when we return.
One thing that is obvious is that people dress well no matter of their economic status in the country. Men wear collared shirts (no matter how old and ragged) with dress pants, and women wear brightly colored saris or pantsuits. We had the chance one evening to visit a fabric bazaar and found unbelievable intricate and colorful fabrics very cheap. No matter how well you bargain, I am sure they are still making out well, and I am
Lawn Mowing
The perfect combination. This is how they mow the lawn at the Taj. And the workers eat the clippings. very happy they do so.
The Taj Mahal was the highlight of this trip for me. It is one of the few things in life that I wanted to see in person, and now I have done so. A Mogul built it in the 1640’s as a monument of love for one of his 4 wives who died (her tomb is in the Taj Mahal). There is perfect symmetry to the building and it’s surroundings with 2 buildings on the sides; one is a mosque and the other a guesthouse. There was to be a second Taj Mahal built in black marble across the river, but was started and abandoned due to fighting within the family. We also visited the Agra Fort and I have included a few pictures of the Fort and the view of the Taj from the Fort. The wild monkeys at the Fort enthralled me so I did not listen to the history. You all will have to ask Lou if you want to know.
I end this blog entry by again talking about the culture in this country. Although the caste system has been outlawed, it is still very obvious to a traveler.
We occasionally run into an “untouchable” which is the lowest caste in India. These are usually deformed humans (some severely) who beg on the streets, are dirty, and are basically ignored. The Hindu culture believes that these people are deformed due to something they committed in a prior life. Even the untouchables accept this for themselves. You can’t help but pity these people and their circumstance. I do not know much about Ghandi and Mother Teresa, but God bless them for the changes they made in this country and I hope others will follow.
Next stop is Vienna, Austria. Stay tuned.
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debbie
non-member comment
India
Peter and Lou, so glad everything (re:earthquake) is fine.. I pulled out my atlas, magnifying glass and your itinerary so I could pinpoint your location. Peter, I'm with you, seeing the Taj Mahal in person is something I would love to do. You'll have to let me borrow a copy of your picture so I can get a 8x10, It is such a wonderful sight. You guys take care. Love, Debbie