Return of the Angh


Advertisement
India's flag
Asia » India » Nagaland » Kohima
May 20th 2007
Published: August 13th 2007
Edit Blog Post

MonMonMon

Sunset over Mon in Nagaland
Nagaland is known for it's tribes and I must say that it was very interesting... Here tribal heritage is still strong and you can still see lots of people dressed in traditional clothing... At least in the north of Nagaland where we started our journey...

We first went to Mon, up in the north and it was a very pleasant hill station... From there we made our way to Longwa on the border with Burma, our jeep got stuck 20 km's before we got there so we had to walk the last part.. We opted to stay in a village half way in the house of the local pastor... There was a beautiful sunset and a good sleep and then it was time to catch a truck up to Longwa... Longwa straddles the border with Burma and the house of the king, called Angh in Naga is half in India and half in Burma...

Longwa wasn't our final destination though because we wanted to really get of the road and stay in a small village.. So we asked Longsha a local guide about any village a few hours walk from Longwa and he provided us with somebody to show
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu

House of the Angh
us the way... We walked through the jungle on the border with Burma, crossing over at times, for 3 hours and arrived in another border village... They accommodated us in one of their houses and we settled in... Unfortunately the monsoon finally dropped in on us and it rained all the time we were there, so we couldn't really look around the place much and spend most of our time in the house...

The houses are very big, with very few and small windows and because of that very smoky as they have a fire in the centre... The people of the village were mostly opium addicts as are many of the people in this region on Nagaland... It seems with the American Christian missionaries also came the opium... It gives another meaning to the saying: religion is the opium of the masses... and the effects are seen today with according to Longsha about 70 percent of the population addicted along the border... So the men sit inside their houses smoking opium all day, selling their heritage to get money to smoke more... It is quite sad to see... On the other hand you still see lots of people
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu

Konyak Naga house
with tattoos on their faces or their body and a lot still wearing traditional clothing... By the way, if they have tattoos on their face, it means they have chopped of a few heads in their time (they used to be head hunters)... Only the older men still have the tattooed faces as nobody hunts for heads anymore... Lucky for us! In one of the villages we went to they proudly showed us the human skulls of their victims, which they keep under a special stone...

Anyway after a few days in the jungle we got back to Mon (this time the jeep made it) and then Noa and I went to Kohima.. Lenny and Mikki decided to leave us and went to Sibsigar... So the fellowship became smaller again... And now I am here in Kohima where the British and Indians stopped the advance of the Japanese in the Second World War... It reminds me a bit of Darjeeling or Gangtok... A pleasant town to rest for a while...



Additional photos below
Photos: 25, Displayed: 24


Advertisement

Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

Former Konyak headhunter
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

Naga drum inside the Angh's house
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

Mithun skulls on the wall of the Angh's house
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

Bag with monkey skulls
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

Konyak with ritual weapons
Sanga Chang NyuSanga Chang Nyu
Sanga Chang Nyu

The skulls from the head hunting days
Sanga Chang Nyu to LongwaSanga Chang Nyu to Longwa
Sanga Chang Nyu to Longwa

Sunset over Nagaland
Sanga Chang Nyu to LongwaSanga Chang Nyu to Longwa
Sanga Chang Nyu to Longwa

Walking to Longwa because the jeep couldn't make it
Sanga Chang Nyu to LongwaSanga Chang Nyu to Longwa
Sanga Chang Nyu to Longwa

We got a lift with a truck the last part, Lenny, me and Arona
Around LongwaAround Longwa
Around Longwa

We met these women carrying water (in the bamboo pipes) and other essentials on our hike to a village on the border with Myanmar
Around LongwaAround Longwa
Around Longwa

View of Myanmar
Around LongwaAround Longwa
Around Longwa

The Konyak village we stayed in
Around LongwaAround Longwa
Around Longwa

Beautiful sky
LongwaLongwa
Longwa

Konyak smoking opium
LongwaLongwa
Longwa

Close up shot of him
LongwaLongwa
Longwa

Konyak headhunter with traditional headgear
LongwaLongwa
Longwa

And again
KohimaKohima
Kohima

View of Kohima
KohimaKohima
Kohima

War cemetery
KohimaKohima
Kohima

Frogs for sale at the market
KohimaKohima
Kohima

And grubs


Tot: 0.263s; Tpl: 0.024s; cc: 11; qc: 35; dbt: 0.0244s; 1; m:saturn w:www (104.131.125.221); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.3mb