Ajanta and Ellora

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Aurangabad More than 2000 years ago, when Buddhism was the prominent religion in India, pilgrims traveling across the sub continent and monks engaged in their ascetic lifestyle, began digging into the cliffs towering over the Waghora River near present day Aurangabad, India. Although today we call their excavations ‘caves’, that word is an incredible misnomer. These prayer halls (chaitya grihas) and monasteries (viharas) are incredible architectural accomplishments, all created by digging into the hard rock of the cliff walls. The details of the carvings, the statues, the altars are all incredible. Then you look more closely and realize that all of these incredible rock cuttings also used to be covered in brilliantly painted murals! These are the Ajanta Caves.

The first constructions began about 200 BC during the austere Hinayana Buddhist period. At this time is was believed that it was improper to represent the Buddha in his human form. And so, again and again, in these ‘caves’ you see the Buddha represented by traditional Buddhist symbols such as the Wheel of Law or the Bodhi Tree.

A second wave of constructions began while the Manayana Buddhist traditions where in force, during the 5th and 6th centuries, AD. In these caves the Buddha is represented in his human form, the artistic expression is much more intense and exuberant.

The nearby Ellora Caves, along the Girija River, are only about 60 kilometers away. And they are another incredible accomplishment of the aged religious communities of India. Only here, the ‘caves’ tend to be deeper into the cliff side, with open sky above a big portion of each of the incredible constructions. There are signs of murals, but not as colorful, not as prominent. Perhaps because these more open constructions left them exposed to the wear of the weather so much more.

Here at Ellora, as religious traditions changed over the years, so did the caves. The earliest constructions here are Buddhist, coming from the 7th and 8th centuries AD. Then, a few years later, as Hinduism grew stronger in India, another set of constructions was begun. These ‘caves’ were constructed during the 7th through 9th centuries. Then, finally, the Jain religion built it’s more elaborate shrines during the 9th century.

I give thought to living here, surviving through the harsh summers in the cool of the caves. Watching the river dry up as the long, hot, dry season drains the land. Awaiting the arrival of the refreshing monsoons and the relief that they bring as the hill sides turn green, the trees burst into leaf. I’m here in the heat of the summer with temperatures soaring above 100 degrees!

Then I try to imagine the chanting of the Buddhist monks echoing through this river valley. The rumbling of the huge brass horns adding their bass. The racket of the oboe and trumpet like instruments of Buddhist traditions scream over the constant beat of the little hand held drums and cymbals. A sense of peace comes over me. Imagining the sounds, the sights, living such a committed life.

At least I think its peace. Or it could be heat exhaustion!

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Comments

[Scott Wheeler]

WOW---simply WOW
Mike...I can't even phathom the experience you're having in India. This is my first opportunity ot visit your blog and am mezmorized by the photos and descriptions you've posted. I knew you were an artist, but your poetic words eligantly add to those fantastic photos. THANK YOU for sending this stuff our way to the US. I look forward to each entry you write, plus finding out how you're doing all the way across the world. Please keep in touch! Scott