It's..... Ga nesh - actually


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Asia » India » Kerala » Varkala
December 22nd 2008
Published: December 25th 2008
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Its been a bit of a week here in Kerala. The other morning John and I decided to walk northwards along the cliff front to stertch out a bit. We were not five mins away from our table and in mid step, when I cought a copper blur out of the corner of my eye . There soaring above the cliff - but at my knee height was a fabulous and majestic fish eagle with prey in its talons.

I managed a quick snap but it was over in a flash! While we were chatting about this, a very loud banging and chanting noise became noticable from the trees, behind a couple of lanes and some cow sheds. Ever curious we decided to follow the ceremonial Temple noises, through the lanes in the baking heat. It was a great walk and with the increasing din and straggling, happy devotees, we cotinued to its source. We were as transfixed in:
a) staying in the shade as much as possible - we had no sun cream on - ouch and
b) finding the source of the celebrations - so on we plodded.

We rounded a corner and knew we were on the right path. It was just gone ten am and it was boiling hot, we were getting cranky. On the verge of an argument I stopped dead in my tracks - transfixed again, not fifteen minutes from the last time I was transfixed ! What was before me was something that I never contemplated. A huge Temple elephant standing silently just inches away from me and a smaller female one grazing in a small temple ground clearence.

I didnt know what to do as I had been so busy following the sound along the lanes (and what I would say next) that I forgot it was really happening around us! We took some very cheeky pictures and tried not to look too scared!
What a way to start the day - dolphins in the surf, eagles over head and a couple of placid but ENORMOUS elephants in a temple just a stroll away. I was incapable of speech. I am a bit of a Natural HistoryTV watcher - but this was within reach only a hand stretch away. India has a way of seducing you.

So Fiazal (must check speling - the pronunciation changes every day) took us to Varkala which is the closest thing to civillation for miles around. We had been here two years ago and it was as cahotic now as it was then. The only difference we could notice was the "liquor Store" had been relocated to a side street! Must have been a busy day that day!

I realised that in my complete OCD packing frenzy, I had forgotten to bring the charging shoe of my camera battery. I had the lead but no holder and no real chance of getting one for days out here! I was in the ocean then later on that day when i realised that I was more annoyed that my OCD let me down than by the pain of having to get a new one. So Faizzail and Bala (from the guesthouse) came to the rescue and suggested a day trip for today, of course collecting the battery charger in town first and ensuring I had at least one camera fully charged.

The trip turned out to be Faizalll living up to his promise of finding me a baby elephant!
We were really looking forward to it and hurried through the fifteen minutes of "particulars" required in buying a battery in India!

About half an hour later through wonderful costal , jungle and main road terrian we beetled off up this small lane to an elephant stable - holding up to 20 elephants - most out on loan to Temples for festivals like the one we saw a few days ago.

Baby elephants can hurt like hell. Don't think they are that cute and cuddly. Whether its their scrubby skin like concrete with steel bristles is added to their their not inconsiderate strength or the mother elephant giving you the evils.... feeding that little thing with coconut fronds was a strange slightly uncomfortable but very special experience.

When we thought we could just slip away, the biggest bloody elephant, I have ever imagined possible, walked past our toes , and made ready for our "ride".

"Meet Ga nesh" the mahoot proudly said and proceeded to shuffle him around a bit.
Ga nesh must have been very pleased to see us as he had grown a fifth leg! I did quitely wonder how wise it was to be jumping onto the back of an excited elephant, but said nothing outwardly.....

We hesitated for aproximately six seconds - fixed a price and set off for a jaunt around the roads surrounding the stable. We were sitting across his enormous and bony as hell back with a very small pice of cotton between his lumbering silent shoulders and our tender Northern European bums.
We kept saying his name but he didn't answer. Seems like we were saying "ganesh" and wondering why he didnt wag his tail or even acknowledge we were there.

While I was sitting back at the beach bungalow, digesting all this and letting John take the first shower, Bala came over with a huge knife and sent one of his boys up a coconut tree, knocked a few large ones down, swiped the top off and stuck a straw in top.
It was beautiful and even better with the sun setting. I have booke a couple and will add some Vodka tromorrow evening.
So Christmas is so far from our minds here - hope its not too cold back home - not missing that.

Having difficulty uploading pictures so if none on this one then will try later. Happy Christmas.



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