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a Kalari stage
(not our gym) we saw a Kalari demo here One of the main things Jenna and i planned for our trip was to spend one month at a school in Kerala training in Kalarippayat. We didn't know much about the art or the people who teach it just what we saw on a television show and read on the internet. We heard positive feedback from many sources on ENS Kalari in Kochi so now we are here.
Kalari is believed the predecessor to all eastern martial arts and was spread by buddhist monks from southern india to all areas of asia. After 1000 years of it being in different regions the art evolved with its new home; i.e. kung fu in china, silat in malaysia, etc. We are training under the watchful of a Kalari guru who has accepted us (and our course fees) as students. Every morning we arise at and begin training at 6am with our second class in the evening at 530pm. In the morning we train with all the student from the village, aged 7- 50. Most of them are young kids from the area who are taking part for fitness as much as to keep alive an ancient art that was almost lost under
front view of the kalari
we can't take pictures inside British rule. For the practitioners it is as much a part of their culture as curry and palm trees to take part in Kalari training.
For us it is more about learning what we are told to so we can pass a test at the end of our month of training. Guru is a great teacher and is very fluent in english. He tells us many stories of the history of the local culture and the importance of Kalari to the Kerala indentity. The techniques we learn aren't going to make us into warriors in a month but the flexibility training is intense. We both sweat more here than i ever have ever. The training isn't as rigorous as our Wing Chun Kung Fu class but this works whole muscle groups that i don't think of usually. The similarities to Shaolin Kung Fu are amazing and even a little bit into our training it was clear how much Kalari influenced all the martial arts around. The one thing we are having a bunch of trouble with is all the crouching. These guys mostly have rather spindly legs and crouch so low so easily. The muscle pain we have everyday
Photo 4
front entrance way is treatable and worth it but i was not built to move like these folks, that much is for sure.
Aside from the training time our days are pretty low key. We have a nice room with an attached bathroom and spend most of the day reading and eating. It is nice to not be on the road all the time although we are beginning to crave some adventure. After we finish here we plan to go north, away from the oppressive heat, into the more oppressive heat of the central plains, then quickly further north away from oppressive heat and into the himalayas to spend the remainder of our time in the mountains.
The low key days are pleasant but the rains aren't frequent enough. The heat we can cope with but the joy and reprieve of a heavy pre-monsoon downpour is wonderful. The overnight temperature ranges from high 20's to low 30's but our ceiling fan works well and at night it is our savior.
Other than that all is well. No malaria, no more Delhi belly, and no scams (so far). The town we stay in is very quaint and quiet and slowly we
Photo 5
front door are getting to know everyone who lives here. the village kids who are in our morning class wave as we walk by their houses and most parents either smile or but some glare unapprovingly. (infidels corrupting their youth? i dunno)
Anyways we most go lay down before we are forced to stretch further than yesterday our poor sore legs.
until next time,
Brian and Jenna
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Eric
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I enjoyed your India post. It made me want to go there. My blog is looking for travel photos. If you have any time, email us some at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com or check us out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com Continued fun on your travels, Eric