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Published: February 21st 2009
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Kanukamuri sunset
Always something to rest the sun on! Kanyakumari would be unremarkable if it wasn't for the fact that it sits at the southern tip of India.
Rows of stalls selling same same souvenirs. Conch shells trinkets and mementoes.
Ice cream, sweets and food stalls even ponies galloping in the sand to the delight of parents and abject terror of their unwilling infant jockeys.
However, at 6 in the evening and at the same time in the morning you can stand in one spot and watch sunset and sunrise.
There are 2 small islands holding a mandapan memorial to Swami Vivekananda on one and a statue of Thiruvalluvar (a Tamil poet) on the other, about a kilometre off the harbour served by regular ferries.
There was a strong breeze and a good swell when we along with Alice and Vicki launched out from the protection of the harbour walls. So when something fouled the rudder we found ourselves being blown back towards the rocks. Everyone had to don a lifejacket and 2 lifeboats were launched with admirable speed. The other ferry tried to get a line across and people began to panic luckily the rudder cleared and we were able to continue our journey.
By
Kanukamuri sunrise
A little late due to the cloudy horizon the time we came to leave the island the wind was lean-into strong and our homeward voyage saw the small ferry being tossed by the waves and passengers getting soaked in spray.
People were gripping seats and each other to hold on; Alice was hunched in fervent prayer and claimed afterwards (tongue firmly in cheek) it was she who prayed us back to safety. Alice had planned the trip as a thank you and we spent the evening with her Vickram (Vicki) and Rashid eating, drinking (alcohol!!) and laughing over our experiences of the day and the past 3 weeks.
Vicki drove us back to Trivandrum and guided us to the bus which immediately left for Allappuzha (Alleppey) and at 4.00 we arrived at Johnson’s guest house. We shared a spacious room were served tea and soon felt at home due to the relaxed atmosphere Johnson cultivates and the fact he had 4 puppies for George to play with.
We went out and had a walk around and a nice meal but not before booking a night at Josephs guest house near the secret beach and a night on Johnson’s barge for the backwater cruise.
Joseph turned out
Fishing boats
Ready to launch for the days fishing to be as welcoming as Johnson, we had a nice room with a verandah the food served was good quality and plentiful and the beach truly lived up to its name; white soft sand, not a sunbed or parasol in sight, coconut trees and warm sea with gentle waves.
Joseph has a hut on the beach where you can read in the shade or take a post swim shower, the guys there even climbed up and picked fresh coconuts puncturing them so we could drink the juice then splitting them so we could eat the flesh it felt idyllic, we wanted to stay longer but we had a boat to catch.
There is a great feeling of space on the wide beamed boats with their wicker basket cabins, with the sides and front open you get a gentle cooling breeze blowing through. Johnson’s has a bedroom with big double bed and en suite shower and a huge lounge area with big wooden chairs, settee and a dining table.
It is thoroughly relaxing drifting at a leisurely pace through the backwaters with a 3 man crew attentively providing drinks and meals while you watch the world go by or read
Kanukamuri islands
The sea looks calm but it tossed the ferries around! and listen to the sounds of wildlife and water. 24 hours drifts by unexpectedly quickly and you don't want to get off the boat at the end. Johnson had a ruse, he had the barge tie up next to the new boat he is having built and took us for a tour.. This one has an upper deck with bedroom lounge sun deck and bathroom. It gives an even better view of the countryside and I would be tempted to book it should we return to this beautiful part of the country again.
The railway station is just a few minutes away from Johnson’s and after checking George's rucksack for stowaway puppies, we arrived in time to buy cheap tickets and squeeze in to the carriage. We had just enough space for us and our rucksacks to stand near the door for air but also close to the toilet which forced you to hold your breath every time someone opened the door due to the pungent smell! There was barely room for 1 person to squeeze to and from the loo, the carriage was full, all seats corridors and luggage racks were cramped with people. It was like drowning
Leaning into the wind
Before our return voyage in humanity the looks, smells, sounds and habits of so many people up close is suffocating and unsettling.
The journey was thankfully brief and we bundled our way out of the carriage with a little more force than was necessary and landed on the platform at our destination Ernakulam Junction.
Fort Kochi is on an island connected to the mainland by bridges and via another island.
We went mad spending £2 on a riksha across rather than getting the 20p ferry and soon found Oy's La guesthouse, a cool 3 storey stone tiled building with rooms that tessellated round an octagonal atrium.
Kochi town is cosmopolitan and relaxed and lives up to its reputation with colonial architecture and pretty winding streets. The seafront and Chinese fishing nets are picturesque and buying fresh fish which is later cooked for you at a local restaurant should not be missed. We had a great time but George's fun was spoiled by getting attacked by a gang of mozzies or ants which bit her ankles mercilessly. Legs covered in angry red blotches? Not a good look!
We found we could get a bus to Madurai in Tamil Nadu (our next destination)
and duly left Kochi 2 nights later on the 8.30 night bus.
If you want a night spent being buffeted in a hard seat in a coach with antique suspension on pot holed ill lit roads unworthy of their title; where sleep is an objective too elusive to be achieved; then this is for you.
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