Himalaya!

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We arrived a few days ago in Srinagar with relatively little fanfare (although the lines at the airport in Delhi were insane... I had to go through the Women's Only line at security, although there seemed to be a coed line, so I'm not sure why there was a difference!) The flight into Srinagar was gorgeous - probably one of the most scenic flights you can ever do in your life. We were able to see K2 (world's second highest mountain to Everest) from the plane, which was pretty cool.

Srinagar is gorgeous - right in the middle of the Himalayas, with eagles constantly flying overhead. We're staying on a houseboat in the middle of a lake (there are about a thousand in a row!) which is really clean and nice. It is quite cold here though - it gets to about -10C at night, which is quite chilly. We've got a wood stove on the boat so it makes it a lot warmer, but I definitely feel for the people here who are poor and can't afford heating.

At the moment, since it's winter there aren't many tourists around, but it is jam-packed in summer. One thing that is doing my head in a bit - which I knew to expect, but STILL - is the constant, constant hassling and harrassment by touts. This morning we were blocked on our canoe (you need to get on a little canoe to get from the houseboat to shore) but THREE boats selling random crap. Which is typical, but wearying nonetheless. Everywhere we go we're looked at like walking dollar signs. I suppose it is a good life lesson for me though - I'm definitely hardening up and telling people off when needed!

We went on a three hour walk through a part of the hills with a guide the other day, which was really amazing - seriously beautiful. One thing that is a bit difficult in some smaller towns (that we only drove through; Srinagar is quite different) is that I'm often the only woman around, and the men certainly stare. It's not like I'm wearing a bikini or anything, but women aren't in public as much in some areas so you do get a lot of looks. =

One thing that's really interesting about the people here is that they look completely different than in the south of India - some people have almost blue eyes.

And speaking of what I am wearing: many of you know that I have a prejudice against people coming on trips and completely dressing like the locals. I'm not talking about buying a nice scarf or skirt or something; I mean the people who go completely overboard for attention, wearing a full sari or dashiki or what have you to prove how into the local culture they are. Which is why it is so funny that Paul and I are wearing Kashmiri robes whenever we go anywhere outside. Our hosts gave them to us to wear around due to the cold, and they are very helpful. Nevertheless, even though we are wearing local coats, Paul's giant red head and my girlishness still attract a lot of stares (and touts!)

Not sure when I'll be online next, but we leave Kashmir in the next two days, as we're now en route to Dharamsala, home to possibly India's most famous resident: His Holiness The Dalai Lama.

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