Unexpected detour to Srinigar!...

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So we were brought against our will to an "official" tourist information office where we booked a trip to Srinigar in Kashmir against our better judgment!

We basically paid for a flight, 3 nights full board in a 'deluxe' houseboat and all transfers- departing the following morning...

Of course, we went home and consulted the Lonely Planet, which only served to reinforce our fears that we had booked a one-way ticket into a war zone and would be lucky to escape either unharmed or- at best- having not been ripped off or conned somewhere along the way.

So with great suspicion we headed for the airport the following morning and boarded our plane (Jet Lite- one hour delayed!) to the unknown.................................................

All of the above aside, Srinigar is an absolutely beautiful city and the Lonely Planet & Rough Guide series' have done the city and its inhabitants a great injustice by scaring so many people away from this area.

We arrived at the airport, which is pretty much a military base and were greeted by dozens of extremely friendly soldiers. We filled out the necessary paperwork and were introduced to the local tourist police before heading off to our house boat.

Our house boat was situated on Dal Lake and we had to take a water taxi to get there. The water taxis are beautiful, each one with a bed, cushions and gorgeous decoration. We could not have been more surprised when we reached the New Blue Jay (our house boat); it was fab!! It was more than we could have ever hoped for and will most definitely be the nicest place we stay on this trip! We all had our own rooms, each with huge ensuites and baths and the entire place was beautifully furnished. We met the houseboat owner- Mr. Sultan and his son Bilal, both of whom were absolute professionals and treated us like family from the moment we arrived. They could not have been more hospitable and the four nights we ended up spending there were like a home away from home. All our meals (and snacks) were provided for and the food was delicious, all home made and traditionally Kashmiri.

The lake itself was amazing and we had a 250* view of the Himalayas from our deck. The skies were full of eagles and all kinds of incredible bird life and all day flower sellers, floating shops and photographers, neighbours and friends rowed past.

We spent most of our time relaxing and people watching and spent one really good day sightseeing around the mainland.

The mainland is swarming with army officers and soldiers and there are road blocks, car checks, look-out posts and military bases every few hundred yards. But we didnt let this put us off. They are all really friendly and the kashmiri people were the nicest and most genuine that i have encountered thus far.
On the mainland, we visited two incredible mosques and a gorgeous Moghul garden. We drove all around the city, with Bilal and his friend Tariq as our guides and, saw the paddy fields, the world's highest golf course and went shopping in the market.

That night we went out for a few pints with Tariq and, seeing as it is a predominantly Muslim area and the middle of Ramadan, we were pretty much the only people in the pub! But it turned out to be great craic and we were up dancing all the same!

Speaking of Ramadan- there was a huge floating mosque behind our boat and due to Ramadan, prayers were broadcast across the lake five times a day (including at 5:30am!) and most of the muslims we encountered were fasting all day. So all the while they were cooking for us...they couldn't eat or drink a thing themselves!

We organised a trek into the Himalayas through Bilal and he also gave us loads of advise with regard to our itinerary etc.

I can not recommend people enough to visit this area and these people in India. It is a totally different experience to New Delhi and it is hard to believe it is the same country!

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Photos

Srinigar
Dal Lake

Srinigar 2
Dal Lake

Srinigar 3
Dal Lake