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Published: August 27th 2006
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Benalim Beach
Carrying Wood 2001………..6wks-2nd CYCLING TRIP-2,200kms IN SOUTHERN INDIA
9.10.01 Maravanthe (33.15km)
I spent the day recuperating at the overpriced Turtle Beach Resort. They normally want 55rp, a bit over $20, for a timber hut without attached bathroom. I'm paying 25rp. My bartering was easy- I'm the only tourist here. The last one was 5 wks ago. There's been a smattering of local tourists, but with it being off season for beaches and the in-season for terrorism, they can't be making much money.
But talk about LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. My hut is on stilts over-looking a nice little bay, with very friendly fishermen busy mending their nets and maintaining their boats. They unfortunately speak only fractionally more English than my 'zilch' Hindi. My day has been spent sleeping, walking the beach and reading. I'm feeling much better, and intend to head off early in order to reach Gokarna, where there might be a bit more action. It's strange being the only person in a resort complex.
11.10.01 Gokarna (140km)
I was on the road by 6.10am- a magical time in the tropics. Life unravelling itself from drowsiness- a stillness and coolness soon to be lost. The beginning of the ride really was something special, with the road bordered on the left by endless views of the white Malabar coastline stretching into the distance. To the right, the backwaters lined with coconut palms, backlit from the rising sun. I was listening to the music from "The Mission" which is so apt for this setting. The music gave such an ethereal feel as I made my way - adding sadness and joy.
Gokarna, being a temple town, is filled with the comings and goings of pilgrims. A smattering of tourists is just an addition to the real activity of the town, and no one is out to make a fortune. Its an easy going town with dirt roads, cows wandering around as usual, pilgrims coming back from the beach with soaked saris, or men with wet dhotis clinging finely to their bodies. Some women made attempts to dry their saris while on the beach, holding them up in great colourful swathes of material flapping in the sea breeze.
I stood down by the waters edge near a small puppy. It found the energy to plop itself down behind me in order to borrow my shadow. This flea bitten (I know because I could see them crawling around) animal had just begun life, and looked as though it was near the end. It gave me a strange feeling - almost like this one animal epitomized a promise never to be realized. The unnecessary lives and the unnecessary suffering. It felt heartless to remove the only comfort afforded to him. If I could've left my shadow on a stick in the sand for a while I might have done so- but then again, someone might have stolen it.
14.10.01 Benaulim Beach, Goa (87.5 km)
The state of Karnataka, I had just left, is one of India's most industrialized states but with also 49% of its income from agriculture. Goa is one of India's wealthiest from tourism, mining, agriculture and industry. It is India's smallest state and has been a major trading centre for centuries. The arrival of the Portuguese in 1510 & subsequent capture of the capital resulted in a brief but glorious age. The lucrative spice trade made the capital of Goa one of the richest capitals in the world. The Portuguese finally left as late as 1961 and Goa later became India's 25th State.
Benaulim Beach is very quiet, but it has all the necessities for a tropical beach holiday: Brief walking distance from my room, with a verandah overlooking a garden to the beach and to the casual restaurant with tables right on the beach, deck chairs under palms, great food. About $6 a night.
This morning I met the bike mechanic at 9am as arranged yesterday. His workshop is the pavement under the shade of Jacaranda trees that line the street. His tools of trade neatly lined up on the outside step of a building. Spanners, hammer, screwdrivers, spoke tightener, wheel balancer. All tools are in various states of repair, and have multiple uses. Spanners become hammers, screwdrivers become levers etc. Ingenuity taints everything he touches. He wears a fine net white singlet, tight against his smooth dark skin. There is no extra fat on this body. His trousers are old, loosely tied up with torn cloth, no buttons, leaving a gape. We share a smile, his being slightly mischievous, as he tightens them to avoid loosing them all together. He's perhaps in his mid 20s.
Nandi's mechanic has not worked on a wheel hub with seven sprockets, but he is not daunted. I had brought along a page, which talks about the hub but doesn't indicate about spokes. He mistakenly greases the bearings (which probably needed it anyway). He walks down the street a couple of times with the wheel and the paper to get it interpreted for him. He speaks no English.
I point out the need for the spoke to be repaired and he understands- improvises with a longer spoke, which he snaps off to the correct length using hammer and screwdriver. He balances the wheel, adjusting the tightness of the necessary spokes. As he gets it near perfect he looks to me for approval. We share a sideways Indian shake of the head and a smile. Nandi's on the road again. 100rps ($4.50)
22.10.01 Benaulim Beach
I went to the doctors to have my rabies shot following a scratch from two dogs fighting on the beach. The Dr. has no receptionist….. just wait your turn. In the waiting room all the drug samples he has ever been given were piled up for anyone to take. Many were out of their packets, mixed up with years of dirt and bits and pieces of string etc. I also got him to look at my ear and tried to convince him it may need syringing, but he just kept on making assumptions that it was from my flight (7wks ago?) or from swimming (haven't had my head under water). So with torch in mouth, he got some wax out using a long skewer with some cotton wool despite me suggesting that putting anything sharper than your elbow in your ear was not a good idea. He dropped the skewer on the floor before he used it…. but he did wash it under the tap. Fortunately, the rabies shots come in a kit with its own syringe. The box got thrown on the floor in the corner with all the other rubbish.
The power frequently shuts down in India, as it has today, so by the time I got back from the doctors, it was dusk and I had dinner overlooking the sea in semi-darkness- a kingfisher beer, curry & rice. It was a bit breezy to have candles.
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