South Korea to Hong Kong, via the land of Raffles

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Well this one has been a challenge. I started writing this in South Korea but then ran out of time. The same happened in Singapore and so I'm using my last morning in Hong Kong to knock this entry on the head before I end up having to sum up 4 months in 500 words! As it happens, I already have two weeks to describe, so excuse me if this is a little long and/or dull! Last time I wrote, I was in Fukuoka on the West Coast of Japan, waiting to take a ferry to South Korea. The possibility of a Typhoon passing over became actuality and my extra day in Fukuoka was spent in the hotel as strong winds and sheets of rain fell upon the city. Things were looking bad for the next day but by some miracle, the morning of 7th September saw the sky clear and with a few hours delay, I was able to embark at last on the next stage of my journey.

I've not often travelled by boat and I think that will remain the case after this journey. I wouldn't describe myself as particularly prone to travel sickness but the choppy waters of the East Sea/Sea of Japan (touchy political issue there), combined with the high speed of the hydrofoil boat left me with a huge knot of acid in my stomach. It took much deep breathing and even deeper concetration not to vomit. And I was not alone. I spotted a good few people dashing up and down the aisles to the bathroom, disappearing for some time. After 3 hours, we finally touched Korea and disembarked, though my nausea didn't subside for some time.

Korea has been an interesting contrast to Japan and suprised me in a number of ways. Most significantly, it is less developed than I had expected. I wish now that I had spent an extra week to get more of a handle on it but I still got a good flavour, during my speed tourism from Busan in the South East to Seoul in the North West. Arriving in Busan, I was greeted with the sight of a number of tall skyscrapers and financial buildings but corssing the road to where my hotel was, things went down-hill fast. The hotel itself was a bad way to be greeted by a country but it was at least close to port and the centre. I only spent one night in Busan and moved on early the next day but I did take an interesting walk into the central shopping district. Like Japan, there were many lights, many people and many designer stores and Western brands. I noticed a particular trend for golf stores, climbing goods stores and 'Ivy League' style clothing stores, which gives some idea of Korean aspirations. What was new was the number of stalls that covered the sidewalks and sidestreets; the people riding scooters, motorbikes and occassionally vans on the pavement; the men squatting asian-style to chat in the street; and the lack of politeness in people's movements. It was a good way to start off my travel in Korea, introducing me to the new sounds of the language and the new smells of the food on offer.

A one hour bus ride North from Busan, saw me arrive in Gyeongju. This is, I suppose, the Kyoto of Korea, being the capital of the Silla empire some centuries previously and home to a number of burial mounds and important temple architecture. Iit was here that my preconceptions of Korea were properly discarded. Though a fairly large town, Gyeongju seems very backward compared to what I was expecting. My hostel was located in a rickety quarter near to the main sights and the bus terminal, where the buildings were fairly run down and dirty and people seemed to sit around a lot without actually doing anything. I also seemed to draw a fair bit more attention, a number of people casting emotionless stares in my direction. However, by now I was used to this and just smiled back.The Hanjin Hostel was apparently (according to my guidebook) a great place to meet fellow travellers and run by a very interesting old Korean guy. Unfortunately, I arrived to find that I was about the only guest. I saw perhaps two other people briefly as they scuttled in and out of their rooms. That said, it was pretty cosy and relaxed and the guy offered me the room for 10,000 Won less than normal.

The sights were interesting. The burial mounds were impressive in their way and looked quite elegant for what are essentially large grass hills. Most impressive, was the day to Bulguksa temple and Sokkguram grotto. As I climbed up to Bulguksa, I noticed that the coach park was worryingly full and there seemed to an awful lot of high pitched noise drifting over from the temple complex. On entering, I realsied that it was open season for school visits. Whole schools appeared to swarm the place, with each lining up their charges in front of the entrance to take an official photo. This also meant that I attracted a lot of attention from the clearly speed-addled children. I'd be wandering along when one would pluck up the courage to shout "How are you?", which would then be followed by a chorus of "Nice to meet you" and "Hello". It was very endearing, especially when one young lad approached, asking how I was. "I'm fine", I answered. "How are you?". Having clearly exhausted his English, he giggled and ran away. One gentleman asked if I would pose for a photo with his group of kids. "Of course", I said bowing profusely. The kids screamed with delight - I felt like a superstar. This was all very well, until you realise that you can't pass a group of kids without being heckled and then the real kicker: the kids spy another two foreigners - older businessmen - who are treated to the same ecstatic welcome. Not so special after all...

I left Gyeongju on one of Korea's exceptional air-conditioned, leather seated buses bound for Seoul. The journey was four hours but comfortable as it was, I didn't mind a jot. Arriving Seoul, I made my way to the hostel but found that it took me at least 20 minutes to locate it. I passed it twice as it was hidden craftily round a corner. It was a great place (Seoul Backpackers I and Lonely Planet heartily recommend it) and I met some really interesting people there, though I must have been about the only traveller there. Just about everyone else was in town to teach English or find a job where they could. I guess I didn't see as much of Seoul as I could but I loved what I saw. Things are always happening. On my first night, I talk a walk down to Dondaemun, where there is a large stadium. The streets in its shadow were lit up and full of people, shops and also live music. I have no idea why or what for but there were a couple of stages showing bands and I spent a good hour or so watching one. I was treated to some R&B dancing and then an awesome band who had great character and good presence. Then came, judging by the volume of screaming, the main act. Their first track sounded like a poor man's Red Hot Chili Peppers and then they segued into what sounded like Yellow Brick Road era Elton John. I left soon after. They also had horrendous hair-styles, though girls seemed to love them.

The palace at Gyeongbokgung was phenomenal and a fraction of its former size, having been burnt and destroyed by both Korean and Japanese agressors. The prison at Sondaemun was also fascinating, giving an insight into the plight of the Koreans during the Japanese occupation. However, I did have to supress a chuckle at some of the overworught text on the information displays. All the talk of "righteous patriots" and "harsh Japanese aggressors" brought to mind North Korea more than supposedly enlightened South. However, bad things were done in Korea by Japan, so some bitterness is understandable. Another thing you must see in Seoul is Myeong Dong fashion district, where there are reams of boutiques, stalls and stores selling a massive range of clothes. I have no real interest in shopping (because I have no real cash flow) but still, the buzz was amazing. People by there stores clap their hands to attract buyers; fantastically well dressed people buy even more clothes; the streets are wall to wall with Koreans, leaving you feeling lost amongst the crowd; and you can buy delicious ice-cream, piled 30cm high, for W1,000 or about 50p. Stunning. This was only capped by the climb to the top of the hill in Namsan park at the centre of Seoul and watching the sun set over the centre of the city. I stood there from 5:30 till 7:30 for this but it was worth it - Seoul really is a beautiful place with a great atmosphere. On my last night, we went to a bar called 'Rockers' where they specialise in 60's and 70's rock. I was in heaven, requesting Beach Boys, Led Zeppelin, Rolling Stones - they had it all and it was a good quiet place to chat too.

Leaving the undeniably intoxicating Seoul I was destined for Singapore, a place not famous for its atmosphere. But I actually really liked it. Not in the same way I loved Seoul or Tokyo but for me it was diverse and exciting, which after the relative racial homogeneity of 3 weeks in Japan and Korea was a delight. There is a right mix of people - Indian's, Chinese, Malays and of course more Ex-pats than I'd seen in ages. Also, despite being clean, modern and efficient, the government has been sensitive to history, resulting in a number of attractive colonial buildings dotted amongst the towers. However, I have to agree that at night, even around Boat Quay and Clarke Quay, the popular drinking areas, there is no atmosphere to speak of. After 11pm, the traffic is down to a trickle and there are few people to be seen in the streets. My hostel was pretty fantastic, being as clean, modern and efficient as the city itself. It was a little way from the centre but only 15 minutes walk. I met some great people here - an English guy, disilllusioned with work and going off for a few months; some friendly German girls travelling for the summer; and strangest of all, a girl from my university, who I knew through friends but had never met. That said, there was an instant and tangible difference between the people in Singapore and those I'd met previously, this was clearly more frequented than those other places. I had a fun few days in Singapore and I'd say you could easily spend and enjoy three days there.

Coming out of the relatively calm Singapore, I was pitched into the heart of Kowloon with a not entirely clear idea of where my hostel was. After 20 minutes, I finally found the correct tower block, the 7th floor of which held my home for the next few days. It was a great place (Dragon Hostel) and I met some great people straight away. One was a Swedish couple, who had a taste for Ricky Gervais and the Office as well as numerous other common things. They invited me to the cinema with them and we caught the Brother's Grimm, which I actually really enjoyed, despite the negative press! I spent the next day or so with them, including watching the ultimately dull, if diverting derby between Liverpool and Man U in an Irish Pub (I know, I feel ashamed). I also met a pair of French Canadian girls, who I initially pegged as either American on Scandinavian. The former did not go down well but I explained that I'd not heard their crazy accent before, so all was forgiven.

Hong Kong is all I expected of it and more. I only really explored Kowloon (on the mainland) and Hong Kong Island, not making it to any of the numerous outlying areas but I saw a lot. Mong Kok, where I was staying in Kowloon, was phenomenal at night, rivalling and probably surpassing Shibuya in Tokyo. It was certainly more chaotic. Walking down the main thoroughfare, Nathan Road, will take you past a thousand tiny restaurants and magazine stalls and all kinds of crazy little places. It will also see you dodging intensely irritating suit touts and fake watch pushers. One guy followed me 10m demanding that I take his card, while at another point three guys swooped on me at once, though I just breezed straight past them. I also noticed what I find the most grating aspect of Cantonese character: they don't look where they are or where they are going. They stop in the middle of the street. They do wild u-turns. They cut you up. They veer in front of you. They tread on you. This makes a walk anywhere a vigorous dance of body-swerving, elbowing and lunging through shrinking gaps. It's actually kind of fun.

Hong Kong Island is pretty different, if only beacuse it's quieter. I'd say it preferred it here because it was how I expected Hong Kong to be architecurally speaking but certainly lacks Kowloon's invigorating pulse. Highlights here included a turn round some streets peddling traditional chinese goods such as herbs and dried seafood. This brought me into contact with racks of shark fins which I found quite troubling, thinking how many were killed for this purpose. I also saw my first birds nest, or at least the first of the culinary variety. I also enjoyed barging my way down some extremely narrow and very steep roads packed with stalls selling pretty much everything. The jewel of Hong Kong Island is undoubtedly Victoria Peak, however and I loved taking the tram up a near vertical hill and then seeing the view over Victoria Harbour. As with Seoul, I watched the sun set over the city and I have to say I've never seen anything like it. I thought nothing could rival the Thames at night but this just trounced it. Best of all, the owners of the towers at the fore of the view have collaborated to put on an exciting light show. At 8pm, the towers flash in a variety of different colours and patterns for 15 minutes and though its not much (I don't want to over hype it), it certainly puts an exclamation mark on the whole experience.

In Kowloon, my favourite was certainly the Bird Garden. Here, Cantonese men gather to show off their pet song birds, hanging their ornate cages from trees, signs and anywhere else that is free. I found this quite touching as the guys clearly love the things, filling their cages with ornaments and little goblets to drink from and feeding them grubs through the bars. The singing is also relaxing and compared to the streets nearby it's all very peaceful. While I was in town, there was also a lantern festival in Kowloon Park, which though not quite what I was expecting was still interesting. The word festival conjured up images of thousands of paper lanterns but instead, there were a few ornate scenes built out of the same materials. The best example, for me, was a huge peacock which it was difficult to photograph given all the people posing nearby.

I leave this afternoon for Australia and I am sad to leave Asia - I'd like to have seen more of it. As much as it has been difficult with the language barrier, the not always welcoming culture and the noise and chaos, it's been a great month and I've seen four very different sides of Asian culture. I could describe the next stage as returning to civilisation but that feels wrong as it is civilised here; just in a different way with different priorities. I hope that I can return to this region in the future, as I feel that having seen it I'll need to get a fix every so often.

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Photos

Me and the kids...
They are friendly! Perhaps too friendly...

The second band
These were absolutely terrible!

The Raffles Hotel!!!
I did of course have the requisite Singapore Sling...

A random encounter
(L to R) Stuart, Mimi and Ali. I went to university with Ali...

Mong Kok at night
I think this is Nelson Road - wherever it was, it was crazy

Pretty bird...
Just one of many

Victoria Harbour at night
This is going to take some beating