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Published: February 17th 2010
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We thought Tokyo was incredible but Hong Kong was even better. Maybe this isn't a perfectly fair comparison though as we were lucky enough to spend our two night break in Hong Kong in the hands of our friends Aaron and Debs who have been living out here for a year now. When we zoomed up to the 29th floor of Casa Bella and stepped in to their apartment we were totally blown away by the view that we were almost surrounded by through the huge windows throughout the apartment. The most incredible line-up of assorted skyscrapers leading down to the harbour in one direction and then looking up to 'The Peak' (the green mountain that stands over Hong Kong city) in the other. Unbelievable.
It was Friday so Aaron and Debs had to go to work and we set out for a bit of exploring. First stop the Peak Tram up the mountain for the best views of the city. Maybe Aaron and Debs should start charging people to come and have a view from their apartment - it was virtually as good!
We were a little dazed and confused from jet lag but were determined to hold
out as long as possible just wandering through the fascinating streets, stalls and squares of the centre. By now we had lost our map so weren't sure where we were going or how we were ever going to find the apartment again but it was surprisingly easy. We soon found the great stretch of escalators that rise up from Central to Mid-Levels and we found that under the escalators were where the locals were eating wonderful looking street food. We decided this was maybe a bit too adventurous for our first day and carried onto to what seemed to be noodle soup district - numerous eateries ranging from the super basic fast-food canteen to more upmarket places. Most had English menus on offer but we were still totally overwhelmed by the choice (pig's intestines, chicken's feet, glutinous pork belly...) until we stumbled across
Tsim Chai Kee where the menu was simple: noodles in soup with either 1, 2 or 3 toppings (beef, prawn wantons and fish balls) with a side option of green vegetable (some kind of choi) with oyster sauce. We crammed in with the locals and joined them in slurping through our delicious noodle dish (with all three
toppings) and the wonderful crunchy veg washed down with lemon tea. The damage: about £3 in total!! What a bargain. Back at the apartment we found the place recommended in the Lonely Planet guide and a firm favourite of Aaron and Debs. So we were quite pleased with ourselves!
We did do things other than eat in HK but it was quite a focus and we had the most amazing meals thanks to our hosts who are even bigger foodies than us. We enjoyed reading through their neat little file of restaurants that they have been to so far complete with what they ate, star ratings and useful tips/reminders. They have over 200 entries to far - not bad going for 1 year but still over nine thousand restaurants in HK to go!!
Dinner on night one was a proper rustic and fun affair. We ordered all sorts of interesting dishes including their trademark camel pancakes (wonderful) and a massive joint of lamb.
We slept well and had a healthy variety of fruit smoothies for breakfast to leave room for the dim sum lunch feast. The grand chandelier-lit dining room was inside the city hall and we
did well to get there early so that we didn't have to wait for a table - it was really busy. We weren't too sure what to expect but were advised by Aaron to just look at what was on offer on the constant stream of passing hostess trolleys and point at anything we liked the look of. We avoided the chickens feet and abalone but the little dishes of wontons, stuffed aubergine, prawn rolls, spicy squid, pork balls and no end of other delicacies built up in the middle as we nibbled our way through the selection and sipped jasmine tea. What an experience!!
Another feast was planned for the evening so time to do some exercise. The dragon's back is a popular hike, climbing up then along a ridge before heading back down though woodland. We couldn't believe how soon we were out of the city into lush countryside but as we walked on and up the wind got stronger and the visibility dropped. We had a lovely time but sadly the awesome views from the top were a non-starter. What a shame!!
On to Stanley for some souvenir shopping in the busy market stalls before
getting ready for the evening ahead...another amazing meal. This time at
Hutong - a short ferry ride over to Kowloon and up to the 20-something floor to the super-smart bar and restaurant. The view across to the HK skyline and evening lightshow was spectacular and the food exquisite and cheap (only thirty quid a head including cocktails and wine). The perfect end to our whistle-stop visit to Hong Kong. Thanks Aaron and Debs!!
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