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Published: August 11th 2010
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What a difference a bit of tarmac makes, throw in some downhill and Zugdidi at the foot of the mountains was an easy 50km.At least it should of been.
All drug enthusiasts will know what a come down is and we think we're suffering from the cycling variation and İ dont mean a come down from the mountains.No its more to do with leaving Kazakhstan and our last difficult country(on paper at least).İn Tbilisi we hung out at bars and cafes,it was like beıng on a real holiday and somewhere in all that we seemed to have lost our edge.Gone are the 5AM starts to beat the heat and its also been a farewell to 120 km plus days where anything less felt like we were standing still.İ know after Georgia our struggles wont end,theres the mountains of Turkey coming up soon for starters,what we need is some good old fashioned 5AM starts to clock up the 100 plus days.........bollocks to that!
Maybe its because after leaving Kazakhstan we're now in Europe(sort of).I cant really decide whether Georgia's ın Europe or Asia.In some ways it feels European,the landscape and beach life fit the bill but the roads and
general chaos fall more towards Asia.Anyway as far as riding goes we'll be back in Europe officially when we cross the Bosphorus or take a boat to a Greek island.Right now it feels like weve dipped for the line about 2000km too soon.Georgıa's tiny compared to our last two countries but chopping away at it with 50 and 60km days its beginning to grow.
Back to the caper.Zugdidi is only about 10km from Abkhazia, a territory that broke away from Georgia back in the 1990s.They feared loosing their own autonomous status when the soviet union broke up(98% of Abkhazian's voted to keep the union) and as tensions grew the Georgian army went in to pacıfy the population but were retaliated by a Russian backed Abkhazian force.Ethnic cleansıng and a mass exodus of the Georgian population followed shortly after.As recent as 2008 when tempers flared in the Kodari gorge the Russians were back and once again helped themselves to a fight with their neighbour. İ think they are only just starting to realise that Russia was only after key assets and border control.Four countries(including Russia) recognıse Abkhazia as a country,Nicaragua,Venezuela and that well known place Nauru who received 50 million
dollars in aid for their trouble.Can İ recognise it too!
This pleasant border town has plenty of locals and refugees milling about the park and streets,the latter of which could'nt keep their eyes off us,it was like being back in Kazakhstan.İ guess we're a rare commodity where they come from.
İts very hot and humid right now which is adding an extra strain to our already vacant legs.Along the way to Poti we recieved a large helping of the hazelnut harvest from a kind bloke who kept passing armfuls of his crop over the fence.Such a generous lot the Georgian's.I cant remember buying any vegetables outside Tbilisi.The small amount we need they always give us for free along with a few extras.When we thank them and try to pay something they just give us more.Infact some of them are so generous we have to leave quıckly so that we dont become wobbling fruit markets.Be a shame to let good food go to waste in this heat.
Georgian generosity brought us that evening to the home of Serj, a local farmer who we met while looking for a campspot in a swamp outside Poti.İts extremely doubtful that a
trip through Georgia wont be met with an invite back to a house for food,drink and a bed for the night.Serj lived in modest accommadation.With the help of friends he tried but failed to rig up some lights.No problem he said lets go to my neighbour.So we did!Imagine that in England!
Food and drink including homemade wine and chacha and with the smattering of Russian and sprinkling of Georgian weve picked up we managed to break through the language barrier.İ knew Serj was a pisshead when we met him.Fun guy!The two young brothers that were there told us of their gun battles with the Russians two years ago.Georgian's are a peaceful lot but as the younger of the two stood quietly at the back while the older kept our glasses topped I could easily see them hiding by the river bank exchanging fire with Russian soilders.
We recieved two more drinking horns as gifts in the morning to add to our collection (what will we do with them),in return we gave the ladies a couple of silver braclets that İ fished out from the depths of my pannier.İ dont even have a hangover, that chacha is miracle booze!
Black Sea coast
south west of Batumi Decided not to go into Poti (home to the legend of the golden fleece) and pressed on down the coast.Great road here , not too many cars,pretty flat and at times it runs right along the Black Sea.Whoever named it ,named it at night because when we stopped for an afternoon swim the water was as clear and blue as parts of the Mediterranean.Our cycling insentive took a futher smack in the mouth as soon as we got in the water.This is no good! All this nice warm,clear water with cold beers and sunshine.No! We need neverending uphills,headwinds,traffic,noise,dust,pollution and cows in the road.None of this cold drinks and sunlounging carry on.People might start to think were gay.
Everytime we pass a beach we feel the need for a dip,its hot and the traffic has returned since weve joined the Tbilisi / Batumi road but on we must go.After Kobuleti we found a good bit of pebble beach and at the back found a good spot for the tent and tucked into some Georgian red.Lifes good right now and tomorrow were going on holiday.
Batumi's changed alot since we were last here,it seems that Batumi has recieved the money to improve that could of gone to the resort of Sochumi in the now Russian held Abkhazia.Theres a long park and prominade now in front of the beach and many of the old colonial buildings have had a facelıft.Batumi has gone from a backwater to international destination in little over ten years but theres along way to go.Kind of missed the tumbledown nature of the place it once was although we dont begrudge the development.Batumi unlike Mestia is geared towards tourism and is expanding and improving every day.
Contrary to what alot of the users on Lonely planets thorntree say it was very easy to find accommadation,in fact we found a good option straight away.İt seems that many users on that forum are more interested in personal achievements than giving a straight answer but there you go.
Our skin headed, tattooed landlord gave us a small flat with shower,stove,front room and tv for 50 lari a night ,right in the middle of town.He took care of our bikes which sat under a portrait of a peaceful looking Stalin who was smoking a pipe.Even total bastards need a bit of free time.
Batumi is a good start or finish to a trip to Georgia,it eases you into this powder keg of religion,border disputes,language,friendship and sorrow.A country full of beauty,watched over by a greedy neighbour.Most Georgian's get by with what they've got, extended families look after one another and always offer a hand to passing travellers which makes this country a classic destination.
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