Tblisi loves you

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Its true. This morning during breakfast I was having a conversation with my excellent and courteous host when it hit me - my next blog for my review of my second day in Georgia must be titled Tblisi loves you!

You see, last night while after Archil and I got off the metro and during our walk to Freedom Square he showed me his phone. He was showing me his wifi settings, and in capitalized plain English was the saying - "TBLISI LOVES YOU". It turns out the city offers free wifi to all who come to the city and this hospitality here towards guests is a tradition amongst Georgians. As I was told last night, visitors are a gift from God. I can personally attest to the fundamental truth of that statement. My host family, Archil and his community are the most welcoming people I have met from outside the US. The love of country and of visitors visiting will continue to attract visitors, capital, and people looking to experience a genuine culture that decided a long time ago it was different and a unique place in the world. That said let me share the events of the day.

The day began with breakfast prepared by his dada (that is how you say mom is Georgian) and papa (Archilc dad, who we call Papa Carlo since he is a grandfather now). The picture shows a spread of food featuring savory Georgian version of French toast wih Ukranian cheese, Ukranian juice, fresh Georgian grapes and plums from their backyard, and Ukrainian chocolate yogurt. The meal served as a cornerstone for the day. The plan was simple. First, visit one of the most historic Monastaries in Georgia. Next, visit Gori the home of Stalin and the town that was bombed during the 2008 war between Russia and Georgia. Lastly, visit a temporary, turned semi permanent, aid camp where South Osstian people who were displaced from the 2008 war live to this day.

The trip to the monastery began the day. I was glad to be driving in a Hyundai Tucson with a 6 cylinder engine today and a great suspension as the road that took us to he summit of the mountain was rather rocky. We had a honda civi in front of us and I still don't know how that car made it over some of the gigantic potholes that would make the City of Pittsburgh Public Works employees cringe. Regardless, after some time we reached the top. Archil informed me that the monastery was from the 6th century and it was clear from the beginning this was a very sacred place. The air was a bit thinner, the steps a bit softer, and volume of voices lower. We made our way into the courtyard where the pictures were taken. The place was unbelievable to think about the same way the Pyramids are to the mind. Stones the size of small children were hauled to the highest point on the mountain before roads, cars and any other means of help was available. The location offered some very obvious advantages, as I am sure whoever controlled that monastery had the equivalent of a GPS map in the 6th century as you can see every mound and stream for miles. Inside the monastery we made a donation or contribution and picked up a candle stick. the orthodox religion is very different than the catholic religion, as there are no seats in orthodox churches so church goers must stand. As a side note, churches in Georgia are like McDonalds in the US - you cant go very long before you run into one. Also Archil and I discussed spring water in Georgia. Unlike a lot of the countries and regions in the world there is a surplus of fresh drinkable water in Georgia, and with e worlds population increasing, fresh water being only 1% or less of the worlds water, and Georgia's strategic proximity to some arid regions of the world that could be a renewable resource and prized asset for the country moving forward. Plus, the spring water I drank was delicious and refreshing.

After we reflected on the history of religion, and Georgia's natural resources,and the importance of the two Archil and I got back into the car to start our trip to the birthplace, Gori, of a man who, despite being brought up in religious school, really squashed the religious influences in his country while in power - Joseph Stalin.

Do you know Gori? Most likely you have heard the name of the town. In 2008 anyone who watches the major network news heard about the town as hundreds of civilians in the region died as a result of the 2008 conflict between Russia and Georgians. As we drove towards Gori today my memories of following the story on the news, in the safety of US, came to mind and as we made our way around the town I started to feel the reality of the region and Archil pointed out the front of the UN building in the Gori. I took some quick pictures. We made our way through town to the Stalin Museum. Now for some commentary you might find interesting.

Bias always exsist, and perhaps since I can be naturally opinionated, but curious I had some biases approaching a museum built a man, to commemorate his existance. I think I learned a bit today. As we approached the museum that looked like a roman style entrance I noticed a large stone platform, that was surroundered by a square of 2 by 4 boards to cover up the base. Apparently, the base had once supported a statue of Stalin, but was removed in the past couple years due to protests in Georgia. After entering the museum building you are greeted by an ornate marble atrium, with a long staircase featuring a statue of Stalin at he top, and after 15 minutes or so we started a personal guided tour.

Our guide spoke English, but could have smiled a bit more. She was very much focused on getting he facts our during her presentation, but regardless here is a summary of what I was told. Stalin was not his real name, but Iosif Vissarionovich Dzhugashvili was his name. He was raised by a shoe cobbler and a hard working mother. He attended religious school, and wrote love poems, and his mother wanted him to become a priest, but that changed when their family fell on hard times. He was expelled due to lack of tuition payment and because he was a Marxist (something Tzarist Russia didn't really enjoy). Next he took a job within a meteorological office in Gori, until he started to become more active with Lenin and the Bolsheviks. Stalin was arrested several times and each time shipped far away from the place he was arrested, and each time he escaped he went back to the town he was captured in, and it seems this kind of behavior earned him the nickname "man of steel", otherwise known as Stalin. In the beginning stages of Marxism they had trouble getting the message out so they used he german invention of the printing press to help them print in multiple languages to help market Marxism. We were told Lenin was like a mentor to Stalin, whom Stalin looked up to during his rise. Stalin was told to be an ambitious man during his time at the head of the USSR, but he had some personal issues. One was small pox scars and the other was his gimp left arm. Most photos published had his small pox scars photoshopped out, and the only known photo was taken by Life Magazine and had already been published before it could be destroyed. He left gimp arm, according to the guide, was damaged during revolutionary fighting, but other accounts mentioned a accident with a horse drawn carriage. Stalin was also a fond smoker of tobacco and in this blog is a picture of a gift from the people of Romania to Stalin featuring tobacco grown in Romania used to make a unInquest picture to honor Stalin.

It was weird to be that close to relics from a man, and handwritten letters from a man who wielded a pen to decide the fate of millions of peoples lives.

On the property we also saw the childhood home of Stalin and Stalins 18 ton bullet proof train.

The last part of the tour was most interesting (the tour guide went back to preface each comment with the English words, most interesting quite often) to me, since we went downstairs to a back room area. The tour guide told us that in order to balance perspective they show the positive first, and the negative last. We saw hangers with clothing of Georgians who were sent to Siberia, some men, many women, and even children. We reviewed a mock office meant to show the papers used by Stalin to decide often on a chance moment whether someone would be jailed or killed.

Lastly, and most important for you, the reader to understand, was the last room. It featured pictures that don't fit neatly into the Stalin museum story, but are more real now than ever. All around this room were shrapnel from bombs, pictures, and reports - from the 2008 Russo Georgian War. Over 300 innocent civilians died eating breakfast like I did this morning, or walking the streets of Gori like I did today as hundreds of pounds of high power explosives dropped on their city. It was at his point I realized the Stalin Museum is as much about telling past stories, as it is reminding the visitor that the tension still exists between Russia and Georgian. It was only appropriate after this trip to go to one of the unintended consequences of the 2008 conflict, the temporary aid camps where many now have called home for half a decade.

As we pulled up I took a picture of the entrance of the camp to give you a description in the official context. Unofficially, here is what happened. Russia did a land grab of South Osstetia, a province in Georgia. Imagine you home, your land, your job, and your perhaps your family members being taken away in a few days and being without a home. Naturally, you would need help. The UN, EU and with the help of US AID funded the construction of row upon row of red steel roofed houses painted tan on the side. This was the sight in the camp, and most people did not look happy like those who live in Tblisi. It was an experience I won't soon forget.

After we left the camp we traveled back to Tblisi, where we got ready to attend a large supra to honor Archils wife's former boss, Masuka and his wife nana. We arrived at the restaurant and walked in to be greeted by a warm environment. Archil is most courteous and introduces me to the guest and helps translate and enhance communication, a truly invaluable friend of mine and I appreciate his hospitality very much. Within 5 minutes of arriving the epic Georgian songs began and then the Toastmaster went on toast a variety of subjects ranging from the love of country, to past ancestor. To the love of specific people, and the list goes on. Georgia truly does love you, no pun intended. The spread of food was amazing featuring all Georgian food. Lamb, Beef, Chicken, Khachapuri, Georgian cheese, Georgian tomatoes, etc. At one point I asked Archil if anything was not from Georgia, the answer was a simple no. Amazing, to think about the idea of locally grown food being a natural occurence. In the US you have to go out of your way to buy healthy, organic, local produce, but in Georgia they know nothing of a Wal-Mart nor do they need it. Everything they need they grow.

After dinner we got home around 11 pm Georgian time, so that's about 3pm eastern standard time, Archil and I had a chance to relax and speak candidly. We spoke about how shared values and some differences between Georgia and the US. It is amazing how this country is growing, modernizing, adapting, yet retaining it's core culture. It is truly inspiring to get this experience and I am learning a lot. I think that Georgia will continue to grow in importance in the coming years within international relations due to the countrues favorable ideology, natural resources, and strategic location - not to mention the Georgians are extremely hospitable.



I will conclude today's musings with a public thank you to Archil Sumbadze, Salome, Papa Carlo, Manana, Luka and Maria - a great family to me. In the honor of ending where we started, don't forget that even though you may have never been to Georgia, or didn't even know about the Republic of Georgia Tblisi still loves you.



Next up, the Monument of Georgia and I go shopping in Tblisi. Stay tuned for more!

Maghrloba,

Tim



Correction: On Monday September 29th Archil informed me it must be Tblisi loves you. Corrction was made and now I must return to enjoying breakfast.

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