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Published: February 24th 2008
Well I truly know what its like to be famous, I've never had so many people stare (then giggle when you stare back - although you do feel like you've entered some kind of competition when they dont!), take photos of me, ( some more subtle than others), asked to be in photos. You totally realise how it makes the locals feel the other way round and gives me no inclination whatsoever to be famous!
I flew into Hong Kong from Bangkok and it pretty much lived up to my expectations - a watered down western version of Asia. Before I came to China, I was scared about two things - the food and the toilets, there latter having proven not too bad (think British Rail train toilets on the last train back home on a Friday night), but I kid you not the first thing I ate in China was shark fin soup! I have to admit though, as I write this (and even later as I type it!) on the latter part of a 47 hour train ride from Beijing to Lhasa, that I am totally ready for a change of cuisine, I didnt like Chinese food before I
came and China hasnt managed to convince me otherwise.
I know my blogs are usually a collection of "I did this, then I did that" but China really evokes a lot of general feelings. Someone said they thought China was a bit like Marmite - you either love it or hate it! - I mean there is a lot not to like, its grey, polluted, the people push, spit and are generally rude, but once you get into the flow of things, learn to avoid the spit and shove with the best of them, you can find there's quite a lot to like.
Anyway back to Hong Kong - I had a couple of days spare before Sarah came out and was luckily enough to meet up with my friend Cindy who did the same job as me for the company I worked for in Sydney. It was great to have a local to show me around and of course we did the touristy things and went down to the harbour and got the Star Ferry and I had my first Dim Sum. Sarah arrived and we visited the Peak at night, having a very untraditional Bubba Gumps for dinner!
😉 The following night we met our fellow travellers - an eclectic mix of Brits, Canadians and 4 Brazilian doctors!
Next day we headed to China! Our first stop - the travellers hang out of Yangshou, a town that reminded me of Luang Prabang in Laos. It was a gentle introduction to China. I came over all Gywneth Paltrow and tried hot cupping (and had the marks for weeks!) and we both tried some acupuncture. The main thing that Yangshou is known for is the amazing limestone karst scenery and we did a fab half day bike ride out into the countryside. We also gave tai chi (fantastic) and kung fu (not quite so much for me - although it did provide us with some comedy pics later on that night as we tried out our moves in the local nightclub!).
Next we were off to Yichang to see the monumental and controversial 3 gorges dam project, which maybe due to the fact we saw it in near darkness was monumentally unimpressive. Later that evening we boarded our boat to sail down the Yangtze. As its the closest I've got to a proper cruise, it wasnt exactly dressing for dinner
as the food was basic Chinese (we were literally running to Pizza Hut when we got off!). Our only other source of sustinance on the boat was a small shop, where you had to call a number for it to be opened and a little lady wold come, usually in her pajamas to help us, but after running out of bottled water on the second day and its selection of animal parts in vacuum packed bags, it wasnt really that tempting! We were "entertained" in the evening with some lovely karaoke (a very serious business here!). Next day we woke to see what all the fuss was about. The gorges were immpressive but unfortunately you could see how much more there would of been pre flooding. We did a side trip to the Shennong Stream where we boarded smaller boats which at some poiints where the water was particularly shallow, were pulled by men in their pants (an improvement on our tickets where they showed them pulling them naked!). On the 3rd day we got off the boat at Chongqing whcih I think I am right in saying, as part of the municipality is the largest city in China, but
it didnt really apear to have a lot of interest apart from the by now ready to be worshipped Pizza Hut!
Next day we were off by train to Chengdu - a city mostly fanous for its giant panda sanctuary which we visited the following day. The pandas were something I had really been looking forward to seeing in China and they didn't disappoint. Even though they loked like men in panda suits, the younger ones were great fun, playing rough and tumble with each other and generally causing trouble the way kids do. Also whilst in Chengdu we wisited the Wenshu temple and Reminim "The People's" Park to take some crysanthemum (nicer than it sounds!) tea, although we declined the services of the ear cleaner there!
Next stop was Leshan, where we visited the giant sitting the buddha (the largest in the world don't you know!), Da Fo. The name suits it doesnt it! Trying to avoid the pushy pushy locals who seemed to want to send you flying down the steps to meet your own buddha, we walked round the complex without incident! Later that day it was onto Baoguo Monastery, which was to be our home for
the night. It was basic, but what an experience. Early the next morning we made our way to the top of Emei Shan, one of the holiest mountainous sites in China, by means of bus, cable car and finally walking. The top was so bloody freezing that we bought gloves from the enterprising sellers on the way. It was extremely misty at the top so we didn't see any of the circular rainbows that the place is famous for. In the past pilgrims had taken these as a sign from the buddha and jumped off the top, so now there are handrails all along with my favourite Chin-glish (Chinese - English) sign: "Loving life, don't turn round the handrail"! From Emei Shan we walked to the Hong Chun Ping Monastery (a walk including many monkeys and 3000 steps!). This monastery was far less touristy and it felt an honour to get to stay there. We were even rewarded for our walk by a beer at the Hard WOK cafe which we supped with hats, gloves and scarfs on!
Back in Baoguo, 3 of us tour of the village with our charming local contact Patrick. As we travelled by rickshaw we
Light Show in Yangshou
Apparently they are going to use this for the Olympics!got to see various sites and sounds including tofu in buffalo blood - a delicacy I couldn't bring myself to try! Out of all the places we saw I think the highlight was the noodle making factory where they made the noodles by hand and would hang them outside to dry, an amazing site from the photos. The thing that surprised me at the time but not so much in retrospect was that they didn't want us taking photos inside of them making the noodles as they didnt want the west to know they worked in this way - secrecy exists at every level of life in China.
That evening we got an overnight train to the ancient walled city of Xian. Sarah and I had a wander around the markets there, as well as visiting the Bell and Drum Towers for a yummy dumpling dinner and heading to a decent club in the evening where the only way you would of known you were in China (apart from all the Chinese people!) was the policewoman standing on the dance floor! Had a great night despite the smog like smoke machine and trying to avoid the Jane Fonda wannabees!
Of
course Xian is mostly known as the Gateway City to the Terracotta Warriors which we visited the next day. I had heard from a few people that they were a little bit of a let down as so often much hyped things are, but I was sufficiently impressed for them not to be, especially when you learn that out of the 6000 covered and uncovered warriors in the main hall, every one has a different expression and haircut! We got our book signed by one of the farmers that had discovered them - although he looked like he wished he had never found them! In the afternoon Sarah and I cycled round the city walls on a tandem yelling Ni Hou (hello!) to everyone we met/nearly crashed into!
Next day was mostly free before we got our last overnight train to Beijing, so we visited the Muslim quarter and the Great Mosque. Train station was manic (when are they not in this country!) and what sticks in my mind is this memory of me at this one, sat on my backpack as all the seats were taken, drinking a can of beer and getting the weirdest looks from locals (for
a change!) We arrived early in Beijing and queued Chinese style for a taxi, - Sarah blocking, me barging our way through. Once checked in, we headed to the Summer Palace, a little way out of town, but fully worth it to get away from the hustle and bustle of Beijing and enjoy the tranquility of walking around the complex of temples set around a lake, which we decided to walk all the way round after constant and many map consultations. Just to make our day a little more manic and full on, in the afternoon we visited the Temple of Heaven. In the evening we had a change of pace as we went to see a Kung Fu show (everybody's Kung Fu fighting was our trip mantra!) which turned out to be more than a demonstration but acrobatics, flying on ribbons, breaking metal bars and some very fit bods! Dinner was a traditional Peking Duck - finally some Chinese that I like!!
Next day we got the bus out to the Great Wall (which has just been voted one of the new 7 Wonders of the world) at Jinshayling for a 10km walk to Simatai (with 70 degree inclines
- not that that worried me of course, mmm). The wall didnt fail to disappoint either and although it was a hard walk as these things always are, it was worth it. On thew way back we stopped off to see the Birds Nest and the Bubble building of the Olympic Village. Beijing and in fact the whole of China has gone completely Olympic mad - the mascots, rings and countdown timers are everywhere. From what I've heard some countries plan to boycott the games as part of a protest against China's unspoken 3 Ts - Taiwan, Tibet and Tianamen. I see their point - it is hard not to, especially after visiting Tibet, but the normal everyday people who arent even really aware of these things would be so disappointed.
One of my highlights in China was visiting a community project called Huiling ("Beautiful Spirit") which supports and provides accommodation and activities for mentally disabled young adults. We had lunch there and they put on a fantastic show for us whcih ended up with Sarah, myself and others holding hands in a circle, dancing around and singing Jungle Bells in the middle of October!
Sarah left the next day
- I was really sad to say goodbye after such a fab three weeks together, but I was looking forward to Tibet and of course...Everest!!!
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