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Published: March 22nd 2008
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I'm once again a few days behind as I've been in the Tiger Leaping Gorge for the past three days and they don't have a lot of internet access there! So here goes with a little catch up. Monday the 17th.....
As I'm not going to Tibet (probably a wise choice at the moment) I find myself in Shangri-la, or also known as Zhongdian The five hours to here by bus from Lijiang was made all the easier by the spectacular landscape I passed through on the way. I think I might have made a mistake in a previous blog by mentioning that Shangri-la's Tibetan name is Zhongdian if I did I was wrong and the Tibetan name is in fact Gyeltang or Gyalthang. Apologies to any Tibetan readers!
It seems I'm coming here right at the beginning of the season. I've been told it becomes almost inaccessible during the winter months due to the severe snow storms that frequent this region of China. The other problem here is that of landslides and stray rocks falling onto the roads which can make travelling here problematic and at times fatal.
It obviously takes a fair bit of caution and skill to negotiate these roads and I was pleased to see that my driver was able to tackle the roads whilst simultaneously drinking tea, smoking and being involved in some highly animated conversations with fellow passengers.
However I believe the danger to be a real threat. The government has initiated a highly graphical poster campaign warning drivers and passengers of the dangers. Needless to say it wasn't pleasant viewing. Further evidence came in the numerous rocks of varying size that littered the road. At one point the driver was forced to brake sharply as upon exiting a corner there was a car which had rolled over and crashed into one of the barriers, saving it from a very steep drop.
The bus slowly carved it's way through the mountains and I was able to get some fantastic views of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as we pulled further away from Lijiang. We continued to climb higher passing more and more remote villages and deep gorges and with that more snowed capped mountains came into view.
The first thing I noticed upon arrival in Shangri-la were the signs. Everything it seems is written in both Mandarin and Tibetan. Does this mean I will have to learn a whole new language I'm wondering? Thankfully my guide book has all the phrases I'll be needing such as "tashi dele" Hello, "kale shoo" Goodbye and most importantly "Ha ko ma song" I don't understand!
Shangri-la is like Dali and Lijiang before, in that it's a town separated by old and new. Once again having checked myself into the marvellously named "Dragon Cloudland Guesthouse" I was off to explore the streets. By comparison to Lijaing and Dali Shangri-la is just becoming known to tourists on the Yunnan trail. It's old town therefore is by far and away the smallest. In many respects it has a certain 'wild west' feel about it.
The people are also markedly different. Their skin for example is of a darker and more hardened nature due I'm sure to the extreme weather conditions here. The winters are harsh with temperatures dropping well below freezing but in the summer the temperature soars well into the thirties.
I made my way to the small monastery which sits on top of the old town. The most striking feature of this is the enormous golden prayer wheel which is part of the monasterial complex. Having spun the wheel and said my prayers I headed off to dinner. Anyone visiting this neck of the woods really should check out the "Noah Cafe" I've had some good meals on the trip but this tops the list so far.
I had wisely looked into the weather conditions for the short time I plan to be here and it would appear that I'm in luck as the forecast is for clear and sunny days. Certainly on arrival it was a little chilly but you still have to be very aware of the ferocious power of the sun.
With the temperature dropping rapidly I headed back to the guesthouse first to turn on the electric blanket in the room and then to chat over some hot chocolate with other guests. It's a remarkably friendly place with a good mix of foreigners and Chinese travellers not to mention a small army of four legged friends which roam freely around the place.
I'd been warned about the cold nights at this time of year which still reach as low as -5 so once in bed I must have resembled an animal preparing for hibernation. It was very very cold!
Tomorrow it's hire a bike time again.....
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