Tiger Leaping Gorgeous


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Asia » China » Yunnan » Lijiang
March 23rd 2006
Published: May 10th 2006
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We started out on a small hike. 9 hours and 37km later we arrived at middle gorge. Knackered!

Tiger Leaping Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world, is 70km North of Lijiang. At this point the Yangzi channels violently through the mountains carving a canyon that is so narrow in the middle that legend has it that a tiger once escaped pursuit by leaping accross. The best bit about it is that for once we were doing something entorely for its own sake. There are no temples to see (thank god), the villages along the way are quaint but minute and very sparsely populated (other than by mountain goats) and the scenery is stark. The gorges pastoral residents have long since stripped the land of trees and shrubs.

It was really hard going. 37km is a long way, especially in the mid-day heat and we almost at several stages gave in to the man following us with a horse smiling sadistically every time we stopped for a rest saying "hoss, hoss". There is however only so many times you can say piss off in chinese and he got the hint (right before the track got even harder unfortunately). The "High Road" - actually a track and not even that at points - climbs to an altitude of 2660m and follows a line of the mountains just below the snow line for the length of the gorge. The water is so far below it gives you vertigo to see over the edge. Unfortunately, at times where there is no track you are well aware that you are srabbling on hands and knees with a 2660m straight drop to the river. This is made worse by at times she sounds so ferocious the noise of the water crashing against the gorge is enough to make you dizzy. The most terrifying part was when the gravel track gave way to a waterfall running over the cliffside. With a gap less than 1metre to the edge we walked though the torrenting water stepping on very slippery stones. As we both stoped talking to each other Lara realised that even Dr Ho's "as strong as a horse" Andrew was petrified. If just one of those rocks had moved......well we certainly would not be worried about coming home even earlier!

It was however the most amazing scenery we have seen and I am not sure that we will be able to beat it anywhere. Sadly it looks as thought the gorge may fall victim to another dam scheme so watch this space. I think what makes it It was blood tiring though and Lara's trainers are not quite up to scratch. I could almost here the man in Covent Garden saying I told you so as she complained about her feet hurting. Something about the soles of the proper walking trainers looking too clumpy.....tut tut


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