Pouring rain and bird filled parks

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I arrive into Kunming and its tipping down with rain. I stay at Cloudland International Youth Hostel (definitely stretching the definition of "youth" these days...) It is has a cosy bar and restaurant so i only venture out to the nearest corner shop to buy a tea flask and some green tea – carried by people everywhere – well when in China - and an umbrella.

I'm sharing a dorm with two guys - a thoughtful Jewish Parisian called Baptiste and a rather cocky shaven headed Swede called Carl. On the first day I keep leaving my laptop to go to the loo and they hide it from me. I know its Carl's idea and i'm not sure if he' doing it pointedly as i've expected them to keep an eye on it. He's fairly friendly i suppose but i can't help feel he's said: "Lets teach her a lesson..." There are sights to do in Kunming – but I do none of them!

I decide to keep the two days here to plan the rest of my time in Yunnan and also to get into my exercise routine now i'm no longer at the school. I go for my first run oustside of Fujian.

Kunming is the capital of Yunnan Province and i've forgotten how crammed and over populated and polluted China is.There are people everywhere – trying to run around streets filled with people whilst dodging cars, scooters and killer buses whilst not inhaling traffic fumes is lethal. I find my way into a local park. Its packed with old people. Many of them are in groups doing Tai Chi – some are dancing in couples, some are moving with fans. Its beautiful – what a lovely way to grow old I think. I run along side the river lined with weeping willows and over a bridge to run back up the otherway. This part of the park is filled with old men playing cards and Chinese chess and for some reason there are bird cages filled with singing birds everywhere...its magical.

The next day I spend in the hostel planning my trip and meet an Indian guy called Kaochen. Later on in the night I wake up and hear him crying. I'm not sure what to do. He's been very intense – his flight was changed and when he meets me he says “if my flight hadn't been changed – we would never have met” then asks for my facebook details and to have some photos taken with me. Its all very strange. I'm too tired to do or say anything in the middle of the night but its a disconcerting noise.

Next stop Dali.

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