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Published: December 16th 2012
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CHINA: The Hanging Monastery & Mu Ta.
Ren Cheng asked if it was OK if his wife came as well...resident of Datong but never been to the Hanging Monastery.
Drove to his home to collect her...dirty austere building...rent 2,000RMB a sq mtre..."cheap"...sixth top floor...back entrance...wife at the door...nil English...please come in.
White tiled floors...quite large...sparsely furnished...massive TV on the floor in the middle of the main room...couple of chairs & a tall bookcase...empty other than about 10 books/mags that he was proud to show us.
I will never forget what he showed us...pulled our heartstrings.
He showed us his few books...PSP computer books that showed how computers & computer chips worked...binary codes...complex maths...technical as...probably outdated.
He was "studying them to get a computer"...every night he reads them...when mastered he will get one!
We delicately asked questions.
He had no idea a computer is a tool...turn it on and you're away.
It was clear he thought he had to learn the jibberish in these books before he could buy a computer for home use.
We suggested he forget the books...just buy a computer...get the shop to give you all you need to
start...plug it in...turn it on...you'll learn as you go.
It was a poignant visit...not sure if he believed us...hope he never opens those books again.
The Hanging Monastery The roads were icy...the more we headed into the mountains...the more concerned I became...passed a black car that had gone over a 2 metre drop...Cheng crawling along...thank goodness.
Came to a view of a village across a ravine...like gingerbread houses garnished with snow...a tiny red figure racing furiously along its streets...coming this way...scrambling up the steep slope...wide eyed with expectation...showing her wares.
Had some felt fish & cats...the thread holding them snapping as she showed me...she gutted...me buying anyway...gotta reward her for effort...probably made her day.
65 kms S-E of Datong...the holy mountain of Heng Shan...and clinging to its side...overlooking Jinlong Ravine...Xuankong Si...the Hanging Monastery...1,500 years old...Buddhist, Taoist & Confucian influences...into the carpark...you beauty...we are the only tourists here.
We had been warned that sometimes the temple cannot be accessed...too many tourists...but not today...its so cold...minus 20C...perfect timing!
Hired Russian greatcoats for the 4 of us...one inch thick...felt like Michelin man over all my layers...good move...ffffreezing down here...probably even colder up there!
There's this segmented temple...snaking up the cliff...looking as if supported by long poles...and in the carpark...a minature model on a rock...sort of funny seeing both at the same time.
Accessed across a springy bridge over a frozen river...from the left side into the monastery...a path behind us climbing the cliff...into a dragon's mouth...literally...me climbing the narrow steps and corridors...delighting in the solitude...conquering my fear of heights...step by step...like a Tibetan yak...bells tinkling in the breeze...yikes...we're really high up.
Another fantastic site in the World's most populous country...yet no one around...not even a monk...a security guy at the entrance...didn't come out to greet us...left to wander this ancient gem alone...gotta luv it.
Back at the carpark...a face peeking out
..."dumplings?" You beauty...through a thick canvas door...crowding around a fire...hot water to drink...the cook buzzing around...delighted to have some custom.
Its times like this that we find teally special...hanging with locals...level playing field...the dumplings, starch noodles & peanuts in soy & chilli sauces...
tasting like the best ever...warming our bods around a fire stove...feeling like the middle of nowhere.
Mu Ta 70 kms south of Datong...the world's tallest pagoda built with no nails...11thC...Liao Dynasty...town built around it...Yingxian.
Took a bit of time to get there from Xuankong Si...nice drive...can still
picture Ren Cheng's wife.
Her name was Li Gie Fang...about 4 feet tall...pretty with a funky tossled hairstyle. She in the front with Ren Cheng...Den & I in the back...me behind Li Gie Fang.
While we drove...all day...she looked into the passenger side mirror...and everytime I looked...she was looking at me! Still remember her face in the mirror...as if wondering...Who is this guy?
A squallid town...down a corridor of neat shops...the pagoda increasing in size as we approached...enormous...67 metres tall...magnificent.
Nearly didn't get inside. 60 RMB to get in but they wouldn't take my 20 RMB note...that had been my change from the entrance back there.
Up the narrow steep wooden steps...level by level...signs "No photos"...security always eyeing us...me thinking to prevent photos...probably 'cause we the only Westerners there!
Throughout the day Denise & I coughing more and more...reckon its the pollution...buildings around Datong grimey with soot...or is it coal dust?
Passed Power Station 2...with 6 massive chimneys billowing...apartment buildings in clear view...pity the residents.
As we entered Datong it was nearly dusk.
"That's where you catch the bus to Pingyao"...Ren Cheng points.
There was a bus terminal...and behind it...like
really close...were several power station chimneys...the super big ones.
NO WAY AM I CATCHING A BUS FROM THERE...NO WAY!
"How much to drive us to Pingyao, Ren Cheng?"
"OK...let's do it...tomorrow."
We decided to arrive in Pingyao a day earlier than planned...gotta escape the pollution...wasn't on the itinerary that we'd go by taxi...but...no way I'm catching a bus from there...no way!
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
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Whoa! Glorious Monastery!!!
That said, I can't even begin to recall the last time I ate dinner with my jacket on! Hope you have your shorts and t-shirts with you. It's 30c here ;)