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Published: October 9th 2012
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Monday morning I fought my way onto the metro, and amazingly found my way to the office. The commute involves one stop on the metro (fighting to get on), and a change of lines (fighting to get off, fighting to get on the escalator, fighting to get on the platform and fighting to get on the next train) then, after a calm period of five stops, (a fight to get) out and above ground again. Actually, the 上海commuter is generally well-behaved, just a less courteous (or logical) than his London counterpart when it comes to going through small spaces. To compensate, however, the 上海 metro system is reliable, quiet, air-conditioned and has phone and data network. Shame it closes by 22.30. Especially when you live on the wrong side of the river.
Prior to my departurefor上海 a colleague had assisted me in changing my Chinese name. The original one, chosen by a committee of other colleagues (and ex-colleagues) meant "navel". I learnt that actually a name is rather important. Chinese names are carefully selected to reflect the hopes of the parents for their children. Unfortunately, however, when those children need to get an American-proof name, usually for work or study,
Free dinner (for me)
Generously paid for by Leo they often just pick something they like. Then the "Little Phoenix" becomes Steve, and the "Jasmine Blossom" becomes Tara. Or, something along those lines. Anyway, I was re-(christened isn't really the word, I suppose) with just a minor correction of pronunciation and two out of three new characters,translating roughly as "Admired Brilliance". Certainly more impressive, and some would say also more accurate. With this I was sure I could command the respect of the office, if not the entire city.
So far, in the office at least, it seems to be working. I embedded myself in the local tribe at work, feeling much like Bruce Parry as he observes and then attempts to integrate with the locals. It was in fact much easier than I expected, especially when you ask them about food. They like to eat. A lot. One and a half hours for lunch? Well I can cope with that. Arriving at 9.30, then going for lunch at 11.30 is strange, but I can handle it. Snacks before and after? I can also cope with that. Random excuse for more food? OK, why not? Picking the ornamental fruit in the "secret garden" of the office complex? A
Karaoke inside
Note rugby-themed video bit too far.
So now that I'm in China to spend time with my contacts here, what do I spend most of my time doing? Having teleconferences back to my contacts in Europe. And it's not (just) because the conference rooms have better air conditioning. It also gives me chance to escape the noise of the open-plan office.
With up to ten of us in the compact office, which is surrounded by the electronic security gate, the coffee machine, and the printer, there is not a second of quietness to allow for concentration. In fact with the traffic (and other) noise at my apartment, I haven't had a second of quietness in my entire trip. It has facilitated my language lessons though. Three of my colleagues have taken it upon themselves to teach me Chinese; more accurately 上海ese, which amuses them greatly. Especially when the sign language for words I don't know does not correspond with the appropriate Chinese sign language. But I have no choice. The Chinese "tiger-mom" mentality has appeared to push the education hard. By the end of the week I can order coffee in Starbucks for all of them. Well that's the theory, but
Off-line navigation
It's not Google maps, but then again it's not Apple maps (which neglects to include the river) as with their European counterparts Starbucks people are never going to understand if you just use plain language to order a coffee. "Grande americano with non-skinny milk", always seems an extravagant and inaccurate way to order a medium-sized white coffee in English. If I try it for real in Chinese, I've no idea what I'll get.
Paying for it would be nearly impossible, however. Not because I can't count, but because my colleagues, and several other people I've met in the week are so generous. For example, I went for dinner with a someone I met from my apartment building who I'd been chatting to earlier. He just payed, and refused to accept anything for it, not even 50 cents for our fruit for dessert on the way home. It's quite a refreshing change of culture (and prices, mind you).
The working week ended with a karaoke night. This was not on my to-do list for 上海, but there was again no option: I still needed to gain guanxi with the tribe. Together with laowai colleagues, I murdered two songs. Although I have to say I was not the worst offender amongst the 20-odd "singers". It's amazing, however, how well a tiger-mom can sing, especially in English. As the evening progressed, more and more songs were in Chinese, and more and more were ballads, strangely more than one of which had a rugby-themed video. I was relieved it ended in good time to catch the metro home.
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