1.3 Billion Stone Warriors

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If Shanghai was the naughty young girl in the "family" we call "China" then Hangzhou is her younger sister. But unlike the unpredictable Shanghai, she is more subdued, much gentler and is a very studious young lady. A "smaller" city with a population of only 6 million, the inhabitants are graced by a lake known as the "West Lake" that is a popular strolling ground for people who need to take refuge in a natural setting. Despite the numerous tourist dragon boats that converged on the shoreline, the walkway surrounding the lake was dotted with beautiful flowering cherry blossom trees, pagodas, temples and monuments dating back from the 9th century. On the outskirts of the "city" were lush hills that were home to various tea-growing stations. We ambled up one hill in the village of Longjing and watched throngs of migrant workers delicately picking the tea leaves for a special tea known as "Dragon Tea"...a tea that earns thousands of yuan (the Chinese currency) to its lucky tea station owners.

Then it was time to visit another "sister", the eldest in the family and one who is quite wise and revered by her sisters. It is said in China, that when you want to visit something 1000 years old you go to Beijing but if you want to visit something that is 3000 years old, you go to "Xi'an" (pronounced, "shee-an"). One of the former capitals of ancient China, Xi'an is surrounded by a 14 kilometre ancient wall with several entrance gates and two massive towers, one with a drum and one with a bell that were used as "time" keepers for the ancient citizens. Within the city walls is a fascinating and colourful Muslim quarter that is still home to thousands of worshippers. Religious tolerance is evident in many of the cities I have visited thus far with Buddhists, Taoists, Christians and followers of Confucius enjoying close quarters.


The biggest draw of Xi'an (population 7 million) is an area one hour out of the city that is home to the world famous "Terracotta Warriors". A relatively new discovery (1974), excavations continue to unearth massive collections of life-sized warriors, horses, tombs and artifacts that date from the 210 B.C.. Each warrior is completely unique in terms of their facial structure and general appearance. The artisans who constructed these wondrous sculptures ensured that the emperor's army was as realistic as possible to ensure a safe passage into the afterlife. The main pit of the excavation is overwhelming and leaves you breathless when you survey the massive number of soldiers lining each "corridor". The precision of the battle lines and military formations is impressive and reminds me once again of the ingenuity of the ancient Chinese civilization. I could not help but to think that the China we know today is also constructed of 1.3 billion "stone warriors"....a population of people that works tirelessly to bring their nation to great heights. At the same time, we cannot forget the uniquess of these individuals who at times have been lumped into simplistic generalizations.

The one downfall of the whole experience involved the surreal behaviour and antics of the local tourists themselves in the fourth area of the excavation site where bronze chariots, horses and a model of the emperor himself were put on display. In a darkened area with minimal lighting, it became a "battleground" for prime viewing spots. Throngs of these tourists literally pushed, shoved and knocked others out of the way so that proximity to these relics was assured. Of course, overcome by the frenzy, I found myself enthusiastically joining into the melee and enjoyed using my daypack as a weapon itself...shoving, pushing and in some rare cases, belting others out of the way. Rescued by a fellow traveller in my tour group, I was a mere seconds away from becoming a stone warrior myself! Fortunately, the battle lines were drawn and the white flag of peace was raised to bring a truce. I was immediately brought into a very quiet and peaceful tearoom where I enjoyed a delicious brew of "Lychee Concubine" tea.

Given the choice between being a stone warrior or a concubine...I think my final decision is a "no-brainer"!!!

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Comments

[Jude]

1.3 Billion Stone Warriors
This is a facinating "Blog" Ancient China is so absoloutely interesting. I am amazed at these millions of stone warriors, so realistic aren't they? Your pictures are wonderful, do you know I just love the spring blossoms, one day I may have one!! I'd love to try that Dragon Tea, so much to see and do....... I'm enjoying your trip with you. I haven't been so well lately, so I'm enjoying my trip to China in the Evening Kevin :))) I could use some of their wonderful tea. Good news, I start working by myself without helpers tomorrow evening. Wish me luck. Actually it's under one roof. Perfect. Taunton Mills Retirement Home. Could ask for a closer and nicer place, it's really nice there. ttyl luv jude