Xian: A Western 'Must See'

---

Westerners I met who were on a limited vacation all seemed to be making the same triangle: Beijing, Xian, Shanghai (or the other way around). I always felt sad for those people. It is just such a narrow view of China and definitely not the best. But, Westerners seem to be entranced by that Pottery Army in Xian. And, I am no exception. Can't imagine that I would have skipped seeing them on my trip any more than I would have not seen 'The Wall'.

Xian is a pleasant surprise. Somehow I thought of it is dry and at the western edges of the country - sort of like a frontier town. I am wrong on both accounts, but more so on the first than the latter. I think the 'dry' idea is that in pictures you see all that red clay earth and the older buildings as well as those new ones being rebuilt in traditional ways use this clay. Common sense should have belied this idea. It's been the center of at least three Chinese Empires, including the first. Also, it was the eastern end of the Silk Road 'a while back.' To have all this happening here it has to have something to recommend it, neh! Turns out it's in the middle of a fertile area fed by at least three rivers, including The Yellow River ( The Mother River of China). There's lots of green and farming in that red soil and among those red buildings. As to the other assumption, it is a bit closer to the truth. When I looked at the map, I realized that, geographically, it is almost in the middle of the country, particularly east-to-west. But, I took a look at the provinces beyond Xian and did a quick population count. Unfortunately, that total got lost, but the total for all those western provinces is miniscule compared to the total population of China - 1.3 billion. It is probably something like not much over 100 million at the most. From that view, Xian is the western frontier. In fact, 'Xi' means west (bei, dong, nan and xi = n,e,s,w). To give you an idea of population density, this western area beyond Xian and a big chunk to the northeast comprises about two thirds of the country, geographically. China is just barely bigger than the US. This I have checked. Without Taiwan, we are an itty bitty bit bigger; and, Taiwan is 1/7th the size of Oregon (remember, I lived there for 3 years, so I know these things). So, about 1.2 billion Chinese live in an area about a athird the size of the US. Gives one a different perspective, huh!.

Of course, one comes here to see the soldiers. Unfortunately, while they are amazing, it is a little bit like coming to see the Taj Mahal. One has seen so many pictures and documentaries of these magnificient antiquities. Plus, I even saw a quite sizeable exhibit while living in Taiwan at the National Museum there. By the time I actually was there looking at them, it was not as wonderous as it actually should have been. I guess with modern day communication we can get an 'over exposure phenonmen' sitting in our living room that waters down the experience of actually seeing these world wonders. I wouldn't want to discourage a soul from coming here. I wouldn't have missed it. Even with all the advanced exposure, the real article can't be beat. When you think about what went into making this army and realize that you are right there where it all happened, you are glad you made the effort. The sheer size of the project sinks in as no documentary can project. It's huge....and it's crazy! Can you imagine building a 'clay' army to protect you after you die! There are soldiers, archers, cavalary (with horses and carts), officers, officers administrative headquarters where the 'potterty' guards are not allowed to have knives on the ends of their long spears, lest they attack the 'pottery' officers - only round hard balls on top to beat off intruders.

Get this, each and every soldier and officers has a different face. We went to the place where they make some of these soldiers (for sale). Lots of body shapes the same. I would only guess, but maybe a couple hundred different body shapes at the most. Can't be too few, because you have archers kneeling, soldiers on horses, etc. The arms, weapons and heads are put on after the bodies are made. Probably the first two are in limited models. But, each head is different and supposed to represent how they actually looked. Here they make them in all sizes for tourists. Like the LP said, if you want you can buy a whole minature army - to fight off your garden gnomes!.

The pottery soldier sites were plundered, so, of course, piecing together all these warriers has been a huge project. And, it is far from finished. Just in the area where we were allowed in, there are lots still in pieces and there are other areas where we can't visit. As you who have been here know, this is, historically speaking, only a recent discovery. It was discovered by a farmer when he drew up a large pottery shard from a well he had just dug in 1979. The day we were there, the little old 'ex'farmer was also there, signing picture books. Probably hasn't had a hoe in his hand since, only a pen, signing autographs - all spruced up nowadays. Talk about a life altering moment, from drudgery to fame.

The mausoleum for the emperor is a ways off. Unlike the warriors, his has never been plundered. According to myth/history/whatever, once it was built and all the treasures were put in it, he or someone he designated (because he died a few years before it was complete) killed everyone involved with building it so that no one would know where it was. Ah, the (dis)advantages of having a nice rich contract to do a big project for a despot. It's a hell of a way to make certain that a secret is kept. Gives a whole new meaning to the silly expression, "If I told you, I'd have to kill you."!! I didn't go to this place because the Chinese government has not even started excavation on it. All one sees is a little hill. What treasures are entombed there, only time will reveal.

That same day we visited a Bampo (some ethnic group) Nealithic village, circa 450BC. Mostly an enclosed archeological site, with only 1/4 of it excavated. You don't see much. Mostly holes in the ground in an orderly manner that indicates where poles were set to be the foundations for the walls. They were an agrarian society that they think was matriarchal from some of the tools and Shamanistic relics they have unearthed. They were also advanced enough to use kilns, which have been found. Ouside, on the grounds, the project leaders had some building built that they think might represent the way these people lived from what they have discovered. The one thing I found most interesting is the part of it being possibily a matriarchal. I have run into this three times now. Not totally matriarchal always (the women actually hold the power). The one in Lijiang was matrilinear (the kids follow the mom's side). One of the reasons for the latter is no boundaries on sexual partners in a society. So, the only sure blood kinship is the mother's - no DNA testing back then! The other part of the site that was interesting is that the people built very large communal halls where probably a lot of the life of the village went on. More or less buildings that have the same function that we see in every early culture I have ever heard of.

I booked these two sites on a tour, which was good because it would have been difficult to do on my own and the guide told us some stuff along the way. The only disappointment - sort of - in the two sites is that nowadays you can't get anywhere near the pottery soldiers. You see them from above, looking down at all the armies. I absolutely agree that this is how it has to be to keep them, but it would have been nice to walk down among them. I remember at Anchor Watt, Michiko and I saw it soon enough after tourists were returning that we could climb all over the temples and walk everywhere. I have been told that is changing fast (again, as it should...but, Michiko and I had a fabulous experience).

What I was really irritated about is that, in addition to these ONLY two sites we visited, we 'got' to go to two places where the main purpose is selling things and the guides generally get big commissions on anything we buy. I hate this and really was irritated that we not only had to go to one, we had to go to even if we don't want to we buy. One was the terra cotta army pottery making place. Then, after the Bampo site we had to stop at another silk site. As you recall, I already got this in Hangzhou. Here they didn't take more than 5 minutes to show us the cocoons with the worms in them. (dead, they boil the little devils first). Then, mostly it was wandering around among items they are selling until they have gotten as much out of us as possible. Since I am absolutely not interested in buying a thing this is awful for me. If I even take one little look at something, there is someone on top of me asking if I want to buy - no browsing allowed, and, here, I could find no way out.

Other than these two stops the day was good. Seeing how they made the terracotta warriors was worthwhile and I always like to know how things are done, despite the fact that I hardly ever recall 10% of all this. The first time with the silk worms was interesting too. It's fascinating how they take this white ball from around the silk worm and stretch it out until they can stretch it over their hands and they keep working it out, making it a bigger 'tent' and finally put it on this holder when it is stretched to the size that their two hands are - about two feet apart, then they put it on a frame. That was all we saw of the process both times. One interesting anamoly is that they have cocoons with two worms in them. I never found out if this is intentional or nature. But, when this happens, they cannot stretch it out the same way because the two worms are busy making two differnt cocoons that are all one but have threads from two different source. It is impossible to unwind these. Sounds like some of those 'spin docs' we know in DC. Are you out there Demon Rove? What they do with this silk is enlarge is somehow...I think just by pulling. Then, they use it in silk comforters. Have you seen these? They are wonderful, supposedly allergy free, the outer silk duvet is of course cleanable and I think they said there was some way to 'clean' the silk 'stuffing'. I would have been very tempted to buy one of these for Jeff, since he loves this sort of bedding and maybe even for myself. They are super light and can be put into a plastic container with all the air sucked out, so they take hardly any room or weight in a suitcase. If any of you are coming this way and this sort of thing interests you, keep them in mind. I think the prices were somewhere around $100 but, as I say, one serious stop in one of these places to look and sales people pounce, so I could be off by a lot.

That was day #1. Day #2 was even better. For one important thing, on the way back, one of the tourists told me where there was a Starbucks near my hotel; so, my day began perfectly, with a latte and a scone. Next, I took a long bike ride - atop the old city walls. Inside the walls is the old city, where I stayed by the bell tower. Fortunately, unlike times past, they do not start the day by ringing the bell tower. I can just see myself, levitating several feet off the bed if they had done that at daybreak when I wasn't expecting it and was less than a block away. Oh, yes, I almost forgot, serveral times a day they have free Chinese music performances inside both the bell and the drum towers. It was about time for one after my latte and I stopped there first. Many of you know that I am rather a philistine when it comes to music. I do like 'recognizable' jazz, classical, big band era music from the 30s and 40s and some soft rock. But, I am equally happy with no sound at all and rarely turn on music. Strangely enough, I love traditional Chinese music. Particularly when there are lots of bells and 'dinging' sounds. This was just like that. Although it was only a half hour, it was beautiful...and I, who buys nothing, walked out with a CD which I plan to play at Kodai School soon.

Well, back to my bike ride. If any of you come here in the future, I heartily recommend it. Or you can walk. It's about 7 km around, but there are steps down from all the gates (more than 4, I think). The wall is probably 10 feet wide and with high enough walls that you never feel you are going to fall off, but still can see everything. Inside, the old city is in a state of transition; or, maybe, rebuilding is a better word. Lots of the old coming down. It's apparent why when you see 'the old' that is still there. It is in pretty sad shape. But, they seem to be making a big effort to replace a least part of these with traditional buildings. Of course, before they started to value what the old represented, many were torn down and replaced with ugly new buildings (or, being generous - the usual 'Chinese' modern of that era, same difference). I think they have realized their mistake in time. Lots of new 'traditional' construction is underway. Probably, a lot of 'hurry up' work to get ready for the Olympics and visitors. On the other side of the wall you can see new Xian. It's just a big typical Chinese (or Asian) city. Although, they have made an effort to build some parks and line some steets with trees.

All the scenery aside, it was just a terrific feeling being up there, pedaling along almost effortlessly, away from crowds, almost exhilerating I say 'almost' because it wasn't exactly flat and I did have to do some tougher pedaling near the end. I understand better Sue G's passion for bicycling. The big (gigantic) difference is I don't want any hills interferring with my experience. I've often thought that it would be great if you could create a virtual reality experience where you ride your stationary bike at the gym or home, plugged into a program that would allow you to be any place you want. That you could see everything along the way and feel the breeze, hear the birds, water, smell the place and feel the sunshine (and breath the unpolluted air). Now, does that sound like an exercise experience worth having! In reality, my Xian wall ride was just that (probably with a little pollution and other noise joining in). But, dang nice.

My next stop, a later afternoon stroll through the Muslim quarter. Quite a few Muslims in Xian. In fact, the farther west you go in China, the more Muslims. There is a large section of old Xian where they live. It has grown into quite a tourist attractions. Lots of restaurants and shops. My big thing is I wanted to see a Chinese mosque. There is only one main street in the quarter, with a few side streets. It couldn't have been a mile long. I had my LP with me and I must have hunted for this mosque the better part of an hour hunting, stopping frequently to ask directions. This was foolishness on my part. Chinese are (generally) like Kenyans. You ask them directions they give them...whether they know or not. I found myself going up and down side streets and clear to the end of the main street. To be truthful, I was finding this totally perplexing. How is it that I am in the Muslim area, and I only pick out people to ask who aren't Muslims. That part is still a mystery. I am quite sure that there are not that many mosques in that area. I was coming back and started going down this side street (again, foolishly following a pointing finger), when I stopped these two young gals. They didn't know either, but looked around and directly across the street, there it was. Silly me. I expected a mosque to look at least similar to every other mosque I have seen in numberous countries, including ours. This one was a Chinese temple-like building from the outside, and not very grand. I went in. It looked like a Chinese religious place, minus any 'idols' or women. I was very welcome and the call by the muessin had just been sounded. So lots of men with their little caps were wandering in. Cozy little courtyard and men sitting around chatting. As I said, no women, but those little gals who had pointed the place out were curiously hanging in the background to see what this place was. They had never been in it either and timidly walked around 'the edges'. The men chatting were very friendly and tried to communicate a bit. Of course, their English was only slightly better than my Chinese. I didn't stay long since I knew that the call to prayer meant. It was a pleasant encounter and a good lesson to remember that things don't always look like you thing they should. I would have walked by it a hundred times and not figured out that this was the mosque. One of life's biggest pitfalls...assumptions.

Before leaving the Muslim quarter, I stopped for dinner. Everyone recommended the food in this area. I ordered from the menu that said 'lamb steak'. I got, I think, the entire side of ribs of a little lamb. It was so spiced and salted that, had I eaten much of it, I would have been drinking gallons of water on the train that night. So, I boxed it and took it back to the reception at the hotel and give it to the girls. By this time, I had located my third Starbucks, right by the Muslim quarter. Stopped for one more decaf latte before heading for the train station and the next stop, Pingyao.

That's all for now. See you in Pingyao.

---

Photos

Silk balls with worms
The boiled worms are being removed from the silk

Hoops they stretch the silk over
You can see in the bowl the little balls of silk (with worms). Then, back behind there is a pile of some silk balls that have been stretched.

Pottery Soldiers of Xian
See empty places between their thumbs and forefingers. Place of weapons which were made of wood and are long gone

Communal Hall of Bampos
Bampos were the neolithic people from around 440 BC whose archeological site was found here,

Pottery Army store
In the foreground you can see that army you could by to fight the garden gnomes!! But, these Pottery soldiers come in every size from life size to pieces for a chess board.

And More
Obviously I was quite taken with these. In fact, when I think about it, I am a big admirer of bronze statues everywhere. But, these I particularly was charmed by.

Billboard
Whooee. And, look, it appears to be sponsered by Budweiser

Xian Bell Tower
"Taken from just outside my hostel.

Graffiti on Hostel walls
Nice way to decorate, huh. In several places I stayed, 'artists' were encouraged to leave their 'artwork'

Atop old city wall
Me with bike. They had them for rent up there. Old city wall, as one might expect, encircles the old city

An alternate form of transport
For those to lazy to pedal themselves around

Xian inside the wall
From atop the wall. New/traditional buildings.