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Armed with a few integral chinese sayings; where is, how much, fried noodle, beer and I dont understand, I borded my train to Xian, and yes 27 hours on a train is quite a long time, especially when everyone is packed like sardines. It was no surprise that I felt like the odd one out, not just because I was the only foreigner but I also seemed to be the only one not cooking a rather pungent fish stew in my bed. It was quite an experience. I managed to work my way to a window here I watched the country roll by for hours the enormity of the landscape has truly re-writted my concept of scale in the natural world.
I arrived in Xian around 21:30, and after making my way from the train station to my hostel, with great views and right in the heart of Xian City, thanks to a tip from Tess and Chock. I locked my stuff up and went for a wander.
Xi'an lies within the Shaanxi province, and is the present day city erected upon the historic layers of Chang’an, the ancient capital and nucleus of China. The land is fertile,
renewed yearly by the silt from the Yellow River. Since the age of nomads, people have settled in this rich land to take advantage of the relatively flat landscape, ready water, and ease of travel, moreover this made it one of the major destinations for those migrating along the merchant route of the ‘Silk Road’ in antiquity.
From Xi'an the China we know today was born, thanks to Cemperor Qin Shi Huangdi, as it was he who first unified all of the warring clans into the unified nation of China. Whether he was scared stiff of the dark, or truly believed his reign would continue in the after life, it matters not, but it is his 8000 strong, life size, subterranean army that has silently stood guard for more than two millennia, that is the main reason I am here.
My first morning I got up early, teeming with excitement, as I was on my way to probably the most significant archaeological discovery of the twentieth century, after combining two local buses and a short walk (easier said than done) I was at the site of the “Terracotta Warriors” within two hours.
To date three underground pits, totaling
Old City Walls, Xian
Old City Walls, Xian 22,000 square meters, have been discovered containing both; life size terracotta warriors and horses. Each pit lies about 15 to 20 feet below current ground level and was originally constructed with the figures being placed in corridors, separated by earthen walls. Then large wooden planks were placed over the corridors to conceal the army's location. But in the 2,000 years since its construction the roofing collapsed damaging many of the figures, and there is evidence of fires indicating the presence of tomb robbers,
I navigated the three pits in reverse, as pit one is widely regarded as the most spectacular.
Pit NO. 3 is the smallest of the three pits with only 72 warriors excavated thus far, but archaeologists presume this pit to be reminiscent of the war room, as it comprises mostly of high ranking officials.
Pit NO. 2 Contains around 1300 warriors, these warriors are believed to be predominantly mid range officials coupled with scores of readied archers and cavalry men.
Pit NO. 1 contains 6,000 life size terracotta warriors and horses. All in full battle formations, this sight is truly amazing, and really conveyed an essence of grandeur, magnificence and military prowess.
I spent the full
day at the site of the Terracotta Warriors, most of it in awe, and it is definitely something I won’t forget.
The next day hired a bike and pedaled for Xian’s ancient city walls. Xian is one of few cities in China where the old city walls are still standing in their entirety, originally built in the Ming Dynasty (1370) the walls are 12 m high, up to 18 m wide and form a perimeter of 14 km, which is in turn guarded by moat. Most sections have been restored, so I was able to ride my bike on top of the wall, the entire way around. I spent around four hours cycling and walking the city walls, and to my great pleasure and surprise, much of the time I found I was the only one there. In those moments, peering off the edge, I really could imagine the camels that would have been clustered in loose groups outside the city walls, the traders' camps of tents, and bags and bundles of exotic spices from India passing through here as they traveled the Silk Road to Europe.
That night I wandered the Muslim Quarter, where I feasted on skewers, of what I was told was beef, not so sure! and some damper like bread, all cooked on the roadside amongst the hawkers, chefs and patrons. The food and atmossphere was great and I returned to eat here again.
On my third day I hopped back on my trusty bike, not so trusty actually, and braved the heart of Xian and its crazy city streets, I spent the day getting lost in the rabbit warren like backstreets, only being able to navigate my way by the old city walls. This was great and really offerd an opportunity to get up close and experience the city, and leave all the other tourists behind. Tonight I have a sneaky 12 hr, overnight train ride to Beijing, no problem after the 27 hrs here from Guilin. But this time I'm taking my own fish stew!
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Toby
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Terracotta Warriors et al
Luke, to date I have read all of your updates with avid interest. This, most recent entry, stands out among the rest. Truely amazing. I have long wanted to explore China exactly as you are doing. The Terracotta Warriors in Shan Xi Province are one of the many things I would really like to see. It is a brilliant journey you are making; such an adventure! I am part awed and part jealous. Speak soon. Toby