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Published: April 20th 2008
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We came to Changchun for one reason only: to see the palace of Puyi, the famous "Last Emperor" of China who's life has been the feature of several books and an academy-award winning movie. I read the book on which the movie is based shortly before we left on the trip, which I highly recommend.
Puyi became the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty in 1908, before he had even reached his 3rd birthday. It was at this time that he was taken from his family and brought to the Forbidden City to begin his training as a member of the royal family. Though only a small child Puyi was treated like a god: he was carried everywhere rather than allowed to walk and was constantly attended by a troupe of eunuchs, who were his servants. In 1912 the power of the royal family was severely limited by the rise of the Republican forces that officially seized power after the Xinhai Revolution. Subsequently, Puyi's role was reduced to that of a ritual figurehead rather than a true leader.
He was eventually evicted from the Forbidden City for good in 1924, only to be re-instated as the "puppet emperor" of
Manchukuo by the Japanese in 1931. He was moved to Changchun and took up residence in the Imperial Palace of the new Japanese state, also known as Wei Huang Gong. Puyi lived here from 1931-1945. His role was entirely symbolic, meant to demonstrate Japan's support for the royal family while Japanese officials pulled strings and made decisions behind the scenes. Though he even made a historical visit to meet Emperor Hirohito in Japan, Puyi was largely a prisoner behind the walls of his palace.
It was a very interesting place, and given that we visited it in the dead of winter was almost completely deserted. This added to the sense of emptiness and loneliness that Puyi and has family must have experienced. Although supposedly modeled on the Imperial Palace in Beijing the building was almost completely devoid of Chinese architecture. It was very cold, a labyrinth of rooms encased in stone walls, dim lights, sparse furniture, dark wood and endless hallways. Although now officially a museum I have a feeling the atmosphere is not much different than it was during its occupation by the "puppet emperor".
When the Japanese were defeated Puyi was captured by the Soviet forces
Puyi welcomes guests
These figures are made of wax...very life-like, and creepy! and eventually handed over to Mao's newly established Communist government. There he was re-educated in a Communist camp, became a gardener, and eventually died of illness while under rigid government "protection" during the Cultural Revolution.
Puyi is an extremely fascinating character. He had many wives and concubines, few of whom he harbored any affection for, and was widely believed to be bisexual. His "official" wife, the Emperess Wan Rong, died of complications related to opium addiction in a Chinese prison. He never had any children. In the end, his life is a sad story. Perhaps his ascension to power at a young age permanantly scarred his character, resulting in a spoiled, brooding, and rather cowardly man who always relied on others to make his decisions.
We spent one night in the city, just long enough to take in Wei Huang Guang. By the next evening we were back on the train bound for Harbin.
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