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Published: January 15th 2010
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We decided to spend our second day in another village called Fuli. We started at the farmer’s market at 10 o’clock in the morning. A young man named ‘Kevin’ met us to guide us around the town. The farmer’s market was great. There were isles of clothing and household items, fresh and dried fruit, vendors selling hot foods, dry goods, and meat. We sampled some of the local food (donut type things and fried bread stuffed with onions and meat) and looked around at the clothing. I bought a pair of gloves for about $2.50 because it was quite cold. I saw the meat market and made for it to take some pictures when Kim mom-armed me, reminding me that there might be animals hanging that I wouldn’t want to see. Ah, yes, southern China: land of ‘if it moves, eat it’. I saw dog hides for sale once and that was enough for me. I don’t think I could handle seeing a skinned dog hanging by its chin ready for butchering.
When we were finished with the market our guide Kevin took us to the studio of 莫澐忠,Mo Yun Zhong, for a fan painting lesson. It was a blast!
For 120元 each, or about $18 USD each, we spent almost the whole day with 莫师傅 , Master Mo. He taught us the different brush techniques used for mountains and bamboo. We practiced for quite a while and our guide Kevin disappeared to prepare our lunch. The master’s wife and son were also there. Lunch was excellent. Most of the vegetables were grown in their own garden and it was fantastic having such a fresh meal.
When we had eaten our fill we went back to painting. It was time to decide what to paint for our fan. Kim chose to do bamboo and I was determined to paint a mountain, because for some reason I love to choose whatever will be the most difficult and/or frustrating for me. Michelle had practiced some painting but decided that she really wanted peonies on her fan, so Master Mo painted hers for her. Kim and I labeled her a cheater and teased her for it, but her fan was in color and was stunning. Jonny didn’t paint at all. I think he was just having fun watching us goof around.
After we finished our masterpieces our work was done. It
was pouring down rain so we couldn’t wander around outside. As the master and his wife set to work assembling our fans we found other ways to entertain ourselves. Kim and I tried to remember various clapping games we had played as children. I suggested to Kim and Michelle that the wide open space would be perfect for a fight club and they proceeded to hold a mock fight club gathering. The artist burst into laughter when he saw them assuming various fight positions while Jonny and I took pictures of them.
When at last our fans were ready (and Kim and I had purchased paintings) we left Master Mo’s to walk around the town before returning to Yangshuo. There were a few vendors with hand-made wallets and hand knit slippers and hats. We walked outside the wall of the town to look at the fields below. There were farmers at work and cattle wandering around. As we looked on a farmer brought two cows up the stairs. Kim wondered aloud, “I didn’t think cows could walk up stairs. Or maybe it was down stairs.” Moments later and back inside the town we saw yet another farmer bringing more
cattle down some stairs. “Huh, I guess that answers my question,” Kim said.
Back in Yangshuo Jonny announced that he wanted to take us all out for a “Thank you for adopting me for the weekend” dinner. We found a little place that my coworker had suggested and ordered up a West meets East Feast: pizza, mashed potatoes, beer fish, eggplant stuffed with pork, sweet and sour pork, beef and peppers, eggs and tomatoes, and some very strong locally made rice wine. It was superb. We were on the second floor of the restaurant which we had reached by was of a narrow spiral staircase. After the rice wine Kim and I had to help Michelle back down. Both she and Jonny were very red in the face. We walked off our dinner by shopping all over town. I ate my very first passion fruit, which was very tart but delicious.
We ended our day back at the hostel with more relaxing by the fire and (for my part) cuddling the dachshunds. I just can’t resist a fuzzy dog.
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anonymous
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wow, looks like an amazing experience. where did you find out about this place? :)