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Published: July 22nd 2009
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Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - At the Monastery
At the monastery, a mix of new and old in an active Buddhist retreat on the way to Baoding Shan My last full day in Chongqing was filled by a tour to Baoding Shan at Dazu, about 100km west of Chongqing. When I first signed up for the tour through a friend, I had envisioned a comfortable bus with reclining seats and full windows with bottled water...afterall, the cost was not minimal. Well, the cost may not have been minimal but the tour bus was. Taken by a minibus to a lesser minibus seemed somewhat redundant and I was a bit embarrassed when I started to board the bus I have described above. Much to my chagrin, I was packed into a lesser minibus along with a few other surprised people who actually spoke the language...at least I had an excuse for being on a Chinese-speaking tour and not knowing what was happening. With my knees firmly embedded into my chest, we drove around Chongqing in broad circles, packing in more people at each stop until every seat ( including four fold-down seats ) was full. The tour guide rattled on about Baoding Shan and Dazu ( the only word I understood was Dazu ) for a long time down the freeway as the driver smoked and talked on the cellphone
Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - Buddha and Friend
Buddha is depicted with many other reverent figures. while weaving in and out with one elbow planted solidly on the horn. Our first rest stop was one of the happiest moments in my life and I consider myself a fairly happy person. I was able unfold my legs and get blood back into my calves and feet. There were smiles from everyone including the tour guide for the welcome stretch. After reloading the mini-mini, we set out for Dazu. We headed off the freeway at the appropriate exit and the road went from bad to worse as the highways crew was putting in a new through-fare so we bounced down beside the newly laid road that was enticingly close to all traffic...however, motorbikes seemed to be allowed as they filled the new road rather than weave in and around the craters the cars and buses were forced onto. Past the city of Dazu, we stopped at a monastery along the way to view a modern era buddhist sanctuary. We were led up an overgrown path to the top of a hill and shown many different renditions of monastic life, new and old. At the top, we watched monks chanting and praying as monks do and each donantion brought
Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - Buddha Contemplates the Laz
Centuries old Buddha, still at peace with the world, adds to the reverence of the site...thousands of figures will hold your attention a bang of a gong from a senior monk who guided the chanting novice along the path of enlightenment. Many colourful depictions of Buddha and his life covered the walls inside and the buildings were decorated with dragons and elephants on the outside. Inside the second building, there were more scenes and statuary and another monk chanting his way up the path..this time, I seriously wanted to participate so I made my donation and I got the cursory bang of the gong but also...and I suspect because I was the only Westerner, a very polite nod of the head from the senior monk. I had taken my first step to true enlightenment through the temple of Western decadence...cash. Many on our tour and another tour that had caught up with us stayed in to further pray and those of us that were here for the history and curiosity went to the courtyard to wait. The drivers of the buses ( including the mini-mini ) were milling about, smoking and waiting. It was here that my whole image of buddhist belief was put into doubt by the callous act of an elderly woman groundskeeper..and if Buddhism truly bases one's life on
Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - Heaven is what You Make It
The scenes in the Grotto feature not so heavenly aspects of Buddha's existence. karma then this woman will restart the next life as an ameba is a drying pond in the Sahara Desert. I had just finished videoing this skinny little puppy that wandered to our group...not asking for handouts but friendship. Everyone responded to the cute little runt and in the next second and it haunts me to this second as I write, this angry little troll of a woman, prattling away in anger, words I could not understand, grabs the puppy by the scruff of his neck and in two strides walks to the edge of a ravine and throws the dog far off into the gutter. As shocked as everyone was, no one could even speak let alone understand this petty act of inhumanity. The old woman shouted at the crowd and disappeared. It is my intention to find the mailing address of this monastery and send a letter to the monks describing this horrific ordeal. I was shocked and everyone tried to see the fate of the little dog, who certainly died a slow and painful death at the bottom of the gully. It ruined my whole day and still bothers me as I recall it now...but I will
Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - Buddha Sleeps, The World Burns
Buddha's reward is in the next life..but what of this life, Buddha. People the world over want to know about their next meal...as well as the next World. no longer mention it. The rest of day was uphill and the small town that has grown up around Baoding Shan was an interesting mix of varied food sources, markets and souvenir stalls, all basically selling the same things...so bargaining is a must if you enjoy these kinds of things. Inside the grotto is rather hard to describe. Even with the crowds, there is a reverence that permeates you as you stroll along next to the carvings of Buddha and his life as depicted by Zhao Zhifeng and his crew almost a thousand years ago....most of the work being done between 1179 and 1245 AD. Huge figures tower above, still retaining their original paint and colour...coupled with scenes of everyday life and visions of right and wrong and what happens when the latter is done. There are apparently over ten thousand figures represented in the grotto and you can walk through at your own pace, as I did, since I did not understand the Chinese only guide. There is a huge reclining Buddha near the end of the tour that seems to be everyones' photo-op, mine included. The whole complex is set in a very serene little vale with flowing
Chongqing - Dazu Grotto - What Would He Say
Contemplation is Buddha - what of this world, Buddha...contemplation is lost in a sea of misinformation. water, mossy steps and paths that seem to lead into nowhere but peace of mind. As I left, the whole experience in the grotto made me feel like hoisting my knees back under my chin is not such a big deal. I had seen a truly spiritual site created by a very devout and talented group of artists and monks hundreds of years ago. My last night in Chongqing, I slept well. Sorry for this personal aside..but if you are still reading these, Susie...please send me your email and I will answer to that...I think it is difficult here...thanks.
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