Heartbreak and Hope in Phnom Penh


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Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh
September 20th 2014
Published: September 20th 2014
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Hot, dirty, chaotic, desperately poor and utterly charming - welcome to Phnom Penh. Once called the "Paris of the East", there's a lot to see and do in the Cambodian capital, so I'd set myself a busy few days. I started with a visit to the Royal Palace, which is also home to the Silver Pagoda. The grounds and buildings are beautiful, and after the tour busses of the north in Siem Reap, it seemed ... Read Full Entry



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20th September 2014

Great descriptions
We stayed above an Irish Pub across from the Palace. It was an interesting place. Next time I see you remind me to tell you about the rat. You have described Pol Pot's madness very well. The smells were sometimes over powering in this city with all the humidity. Do they still drag all the garbage out to the street in front of each business and let it sit until it gets removed? Stay safe and enjoy.
20th September 2014

Phnom Penh
I think I know the Irish pub, I've driven past it a few times. It looks like fun. Yes the rubbish just sits in the street for days....I actually wasn't sure that anyone picked it up! Obviously all adding to the smells that become overwhelming...certainly sometimes the smells that have wafted past my nose have made me want to employ a nosepeg! I shall look forward to the story about the rat... I haven't had any wildlife encounters so far (touch wood). I see more rats in the park in Sydney on my walk home!
20th September 2014
Outside the Royal Palace

Such contrasts!
The Royal Palace photos are stunning, and such a contrast to the stories from the torture center and the killing fields. Good thing you started and ended with beauty! I've a Cambodian colleague whose professor father was taken, tortured and killed when she was a tiny girl. Her mother took her and the other children into the jungle in the dead of night to escape into Thailand where she grew up in a pretty terrible refugee camp. It sounds as if life is still rough for many Cambodians; thank goodness for organizations helping young women escape the sex trade. Palaces and prostitution--contrasts indeed!
21st September 2014
Outside the Royal Palace

Contrasts
What a terrible experience for your colleague, but wise for her mother to have left. Another one of Pol Pot's deranged sayings was that to eradicate the grass you need to kill the roots. By that he means that his soldiers wouldn't just kill the "enemy" but the entire family so that no one can come back for revenge. Terrible. You're right the palace was a complete contrast!
21st September 2014

PP Love
Love your photos of the Royal Palace. Have you been to the Foreign Correspondents Club yet? I know it's an expat hangout and not very local, but a sunset drink at the window overlooking the river is pretty cool :)
21st September 2014

Phnom Penh
Thanks - I really enjoyed the Royal Palace, very beautiful. I did go to the FCC yesterday but for lunch. I liked it there! I'm off to Sihanoukville today so won't have the chance for sunset drinks unfortunately.
21st September 2014

A very sobering read this time. But the rest of Cambodia is really rather lovely. Good result for the election we thought. Lucy staying for a couple of days as it is her holidays now. Still packing fragiles.
21st September 2014

Yes, I saw the results. Did you get the picture I sent? Say hello to Lucy for me. Let me know if you want to Skype tomorrow.
22nd September 2014

Reflections
I couldn't visit the Killing Fields...I know enough about it to definitely not think I could cope. That said I agree it is inescapable to not see its effect on the population. Yet the people exhibit smiles that not only reflect their hope but makes me feel they may have the disposition to succeed in having happy lives. I hope so.
22nd September 2014

Reflections
You are right not to visit, I found it very upsetting. I knew a lot about what happened, but didn't fully appreciate the extent of the atrocities. It was a very difficult visit, but important not to forget. Unfortunately it's not the last genocide of our time....

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