Phnom Penh

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Phnom Penh is a strange mix of the desperately poor and the rich. Walking around the riverside area you can see the grand palace and its many temples containing bright shiny things such as a 90kg life-size gold buddha covered in diamonds, and a Baccarat crystal buddha inside a pagoda tiled with 5000 1kg silver tiles. Outside of these buildings there are beggars (adults and children alike) pleading for money and food. Each day we ended up giving something to someone (the girl my neice's age, begging for food; the man at the bus station picking used cigarette butts off the ground - we gave him a fresh durrie). Of course you can't give to everyone, and I know you shouldn't as it just exacerbates the problem. However, it is very tempting to try sometimes.

Of course I am not the Mother Theresa that the previous paragraph makes me sound. We did happen to have one of the most fantastic meals ever (and I mean EVER) in Phnom Penh. We spent more money on one delicous meal (oh so delicious) than we do usually on a week of meals. We decided we were celebrating for no reason though and it was worth it. I'll let Gabe tell you the delicious treats we had. (It's Gabe! Foie Gras for starters. Rack of lamb pour moi. Chicken stuffed with goat-cheese for madame. Then fancy cheeses and nuts and a little fruit for dessert. Then REAL dessert -- Sambucca, Grand Marnier, X.O. Cognac of some variety. We got it like that. Liiiiiike that. Don't be knocking at the door like we Wells Fargo.)

While in Phnom Penh we did the obligatory trip to the Killing Fields and S-21 Museum. They were probably two of the saddest places I have ever been. I was somewhat shocked and appalled when our driver offered to take us to a shooting range after we visited the killing fields. (Gabe again. $30 dollars for 30 rounds?! Bite me.) This pacisfist Kiwi was definitely not interested in firing guns!

I found it hard to define Phnom Penh but I think this is one of the reasons I love it. The people were lovely, and I really hope that things go better for them in the next thirty years, than they have in the last. (G- How could it be worse?)

-Fi

Phnom Penh is grrrrrrrrrrreat, although not frosted. Contrasts brother. People living in houses built of left over concrete sacks from the high-end condos they're building makes my heart flutter. Eating foie gras with grubby faux-orphan children begging for spare change makes me want to do a jig. Piles of skulls....well piles of skulls depress me. I'm only human. Really the Cambodian leadership should be ashamed. They have the most impressive national treasures in the form of the bling you heard about above and the most terrible squalor. Terrible squalor. The whole effect makes me feel free though. It's the lawlessness I love. Anything can be had for a price. That price is real low too. Wanna blow up a cow with an RPG? Done! Are you a dirty old man with an itch to scratch? Cambodia is for you. Need something smuggled into Laos? Bribe the border guys with cabbages! I'm not kidding. Cabbages and a little corn is all they want. They took a couple extra cabbages from our driver on the way through because, well that's a long story, but I mean a couple extra cabbages isn't going to break the bank is it?

We only spent 8 days in Cambodia because we were both done with rough roads, hill tribes and poverty. Other than Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh, and some so-so beaches in the south what else is there? So we skipped it and hit Vietnam which has been whispering sweet nothings in my ear since the Plain of Jars. I could no longer resist.

--G

P.S. I fell mello when I watch the girl play the cello, hello to all my fellows.

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Photos

Spooky
At least they named the ministry correctly.

Anachronism
Check out the house for Napoleon. No Joke! There are little "N"s etched in the glass. And everything's kind of miniature just for cute little Napoleon. You know he was a shawtie.

Sunset
Look! The sun hit the water and made it ripple. Damn I'm good.