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Published: April 15th 2009
So yesterday I went and shooted my mouth off and said that my stomach was doing well. Probably ten minutes after I posted that, said stomach decided that it had a bit of a mind of its own. I say that it might have to do with the beating that I took during my massage and that she unnerved some kind of internal organ or disaligned some chakra of some kind. So alas, I did not truly enjoy my traditional Khmer meal of curry pineapple stew with chicken served with steamed rice. The little that I did have was quite tasty I do have to say. For my mother and father's sake, I do want to clarify that I am not at death's door or anything - no medical attention required. Just a little wobbly end to the day yesterday and a bit of a nauseous start to today. I decided just in case to take the antibiotics that the travel clinic prescribed and now at the end of the day, I feel much better. Anik ... these are not symptoms of malaria in case you are worried!
So what better way to calm a slightly upset stomach, dizziness and a general "malaise" ... take a nauseating tuk tuk ride to the airport. There are two roads that lead up to the hotel, one good and one quite bumpy (the day I had the car, I said to the driver that the road was bad and he replied "yes road very bouncy" ... oh God that still makes me laugh!!). I think that the tuk tuk driver enjoys seeing me bounce around holding on to dear life as he swerves to avoid holes, chickens and roosters, dogs and little naked babies. And let's face it, I am in Cambodia and with that comes a variety of odours ... some good and some well not so much!
So needless to say that I was glad that this particular ride was over and I ran into the terminal as at this point the skies had opened up! I was a little dismayed to see only one flight posted and it was for Kuala Lumpur. Mmmm not good ... having flashbacks of not seeing my flight posted when I left for Bangkok last year!!!! So after asking three or four people with barely a grasp of the English language, I finally got someone that said "oh domestic ... that way". Ah yes of course, I am in the wrong terminal. So I left the comfort of the fancy schmancy International Departures and went to the little shack called the Domestic Departures Terminal which was clear across the parking lot and at which time I am still nauseous and dizzy and no the skies have not closed up yet! I arrive at the Domestic Terminal and there are essentially these two beat up desks that are so high you cannot even tell that there are actually two women sitting behind there. One pops up like a Jack in the Box to announce that I can go check in with her ... scared the living bejesus out of me. I was a little dismayed when she looked at my passport photo and kind of smirked ... if I would have been feeling better and not in need of seriously sitting down I would have asked her but I refrained and grabbed a seat.
The plane was this little twin engine thing and all six of us boarded ... yep six of us ... and off we were to Phnom Penh. As we were taking off, I could see the outline of the causeway that leads to the Angkor Wats and could somewhat make out the outline of the temple itself. The reason I knew that I was looking in the right direction ... the damn Angkor Balloon was flying!!! I'm over it, I swear!
We landed and I made my way across the tarmac to where the taxis were and instead grabbed a tuk tuk. It's cheaper and I am just loving tooting around in them (and they are not as aggresive as in Thailand I find). And by this time I am feeling slightly better and the "fresh" air might do me some good. Phnom Pehn is definitely a completely different feel than in Siem Reap. It has more of a city feel; a little bit more bustling, chaotic, loud, all of that good stuff. I know that I am easily amused and in arriving in a city like this, you are bombarded by signs, stores and just the kitsch that makes in uniquely Khmer. So fun!
So I actually made arrangements with my driver to drop me off at the hotel and he would wait for me to check in and from there we would go to two of the sights that I wanted to see,; the two that I most wanted to see but would in the end probably be the most emotional and difficult for me to see.
The first was the Tuol Sleng Museum. This was formerly a high school which in 1975 was taken over by the Pol Pot regime and turned into a prison called Security Prison 21 or S-21. There are essentially four buildings, labelled A through D. The perimeter of the grounds is enclosed by a high fence and barbed wire. Just stepping onto the grounds and seeing the austerity of the buildings, you know that you are about to experience something like you have never felt before. There is an aura that completely surrounds you, similar to the feeling you get when someone is watching you. It is estimated that between 1975 and 1978 that there were approximately 17,000 people who were held at this prison and ultimately taken to the Killings Fields of Choeung Ek.
As you enter Building A, there is a large sign that states the rules given to the prisoners including such things as not being allowed to cry out when receiving lashings. Building A is made up of desolate rooms with only one metal bed frame. The starkness is made even more apparent by the sole photograph of a victim, often tortured or shackled to the bed. You then make your way into Building B, one of two areas that were the most difficult parts for me personally. Similarly to the Nazi, the Khmer Rouge were meticulous with keeping records of their prisoners including documenting their methods of torture. Building B contained photos of the prisoners themselves. The look of sadness, terror and shear fright in these poor souls was unmistakable. There were young boys and girls, young women holding babies, young men wearing traditional krama scarves around their neck and on and on. It was room upon room of these photographs. The photographs continued onto Building C but moving away from headshots of the prisoners and onto more graphic photographs of their torture. There was also a small photo exhibit done by an artist in remembrance of the victims. There were also glass casings with skulls of the victims which is just another reminder of the inhumanity. The last building are cells, some built up in brick while others in wood. To give you an idea, the dimensions of the cell is 0.8 meter by 2 meters and only had a small opening at the door. Each cell is numbered and at the entrance of each section there are also painted numbers where I would guess the prisoners would be shackled. The feeling in those rooms is ominous and sombre. I was approached by an American gentleman whom I had heard speaking to other tourists earlier somewhat protesting the fact that there was really little in the way of bringing those responsible to justice. I believe that he wanted to do the same with me and I essentially told him that I respected his opinion but that I found this upsetting and needed to experience it peacefully. I knew that this was going to be a sobering experience but I truly had no idea that it would be anything like this. Obviously not an uplifting way to start the day but definitely one that everyone should experience at least once in their lives.
So from there it was only fitting to drive out to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek where the prisoners of S-21 were ultimately taken to be killed. As of now, they have exhumed the remains of 8.985 people and there are still mass graves that have yet to be touched. There are 8.000 skulls amassed and sorted by sex and age and displayed in a large memorial stupa at the entrance to the Killing Fields. As you make your way, there are markers indicating where certain buildings would have been or where certain activities would have taken place such as the spot where the truck containing the prisoners would stop to let them off. Strewn throughout the fields are fragments of bones and bits of clothes. There is a tree where kids were beaten and there are pit after pit which would have been mass graves. In all of that, the surrounding area is lush and green. There is a neighbouring farm and you could hear sheep all the while there are butterflies fluttering about the fields. It is truly difficult to imagine the atrocities that took place here.
I found my tuk tuk driver, hopped in and then it happened!! Just as we were exiting the site of the Killing Fields and turning onto the road, this oncoming tuk tuk overflowing with teenagers just laughing, being loud and wishing me a Happy Khmer New Year in the very traditional way .... water balloons. I was soaked from head to toe and laughing my ass off! I had said before leaving that I wanted to experience it well I got to experience it alright!!!! My tuk tuk driver stopped, turned around and looked at me ... first I think to see if I had not died but when he saw that I was just laughing, he laughed along with me. We were making our way back to the hotel by this time anyways and you should have seen the expression on the young girl at the reception desk at the hotel when I walked in!!!!
So now I am safely tucked away (and dry) at my hotel in Phnom Penh. What's great is that I can access the wifi internet from my room so I am now just lounging around. The hotel is gorgeous by the way, a completely different feel from the Palm Village in Siem Reap. And I would bet some money that the bed spread is silk from the Artisans D'Angkor ... I swear that I recognize the pattern!!!
Oh and I made another sale on Zazzle ... this time two sets of business cards that I designed around a photograph that I had done using placemats given to me by Ping when she went to China to visit her family. Note to self ... say thank you to Ping when I return to the office!!
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Francine
non-member comment
Sure hope you start feeling better soon. Yes, the massage may have something to do in eliminating toxins. If so, it's all good:) Remember to drink lots of water! And no, you did not have a very uplifting way to start the day. But I am glad you experienced it. Sad reality...sick world:( On another note, I am also glad you experienced a Happy Khmer New Year in the traditional way:) It kinda makes up for the damn balloon that you missed:( Take care...and my regards to Sean Penh {sorry, I could not resist:} FAF~