Cambodia - Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and the amazing sights of Angkor Wat

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We had an early start to catch our 6-7 Hour bus ride to Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh. Beforehand we stopped off at a local bakery stall for breakfast and supplies before heading for the bus. The journey towards the border was the same route we took to the Cao Dao temple the previous day, therefore passing the same local towns with the occasional street vender, plastic chair restaurants and rice fields along the way. Our visa cost $25 dollars to Cambodia and at the border all was taken care of by a well presented Bus clerk. The scrutination by the Cambodian authorities was far more relaxed than when entering Vietnam with the sleepy looking guard opening passports without looking at who it belongs to. Once through customs we waited for our visa stamp at a near bye restaurant and also managed to change money into Cambodian "Riel" currency, far less quantity than Vietnamese Dong but still 6 grand to the pound. Our friend exchanged money receiving a wad of notes that had to be elastic banded! A sign on the ouside of the plush clean and modern bank said "Do not take Firearms into the Bank." With that, we didn't know what to expected for the remainder of our time in Cambodia!!? The journey en route to Phnom Penh was somewhat quiet with eyes generally glued to the windows witnessing the dryer and duller rice fields spreading across the flat plains with the occasional pond area reflecting the bright blue sky and towering white storm clouds (Cumilo-Nimbus). A canal like system with muddy waters also lined the road in juxtaposition. Following on from the occasional road bump was a village with very poor houses that looked in bad condition, even the tetris like formations we had seen with Vietnamese buildings seemed luxury to this. We also passed market stalls where every part of a pig was hung up ready to sell and workers with there traditional "Kroma" headscarves sat effortlessly like they do not receive business. We were amused by one lady as she sat picking her nose and flicking it towards the meat!. We also had to take a transporter ferry across a wide river to continue our travel to the capital, upon which was a mo-ped with its rear seat covered by a box double the width of the bike and filled with live chickens looking helpless yet more likely to be calm because they were hung upside down. As we approached Phnom Penh the streets became busier yet without any sign of increased affluence. The roads where gridlocked yet scooters managed to dart in amongst the traffic. Only until we entered central Phnom Penh did you see a higher class style of building, predominantly governmental or built for the tourist. Our arrival initiated a series of workers to create a barrier for us to leave the bus providing only brief cover to the barrage of tuk-tuk drivers waiting to pounce for a ride. I was constantly followed by one driver whilst Nik was searching for her bag with a touch of frantication. The cool water spray from the bus station was a light relief as we got things together away from the immediate bustle of Phnom Penh. We opted to get a tuk tuk towards the cheaper Lake side of the city and turned down small streets lined with tourist style amenities such as restaurants internet and guest houses. At the end of the line our driver dropped us off and we were moderately happy with our accommodation. Costing a mere $4 dollars the basic room was enough for us and its communal bar area overlooked a far calmer lake with local fisherman using their nets near bye and the corrugated shanty like buildings in the background provided a nice atmosphere to Phnom Penh. We ate along the lake and took advantage of the free pool table, making this a chilled out day in wait of the harsher realities of Cambodia's history with the killing fields to see tomorrow. Later in the evening we watched an electric storm in the distance over the north of Phnom Penh, spending a great deal of time trying to photograph the fork lightening yet for me having no luck.

We set off early morning in order to avoid the soaring heat when visiting the killing fields just outside Phnom Penh. We arranged a Tuk-Tuk to drive us to a number of places during the day costing only $5 each. The Tuk-Tuk was essentially a motorbike with a trailer enabling it to carry around 4 people. The morning busyness seemed far less daunting than the evening before and the journey was a good chance to take in what the capital is like as we passed through it. The killing fields is a must see in Phnom Penh although its not necessarily something that you would want to see, if that makes sense. As you walk into the fields a large remembrance monument filled with skulls, bones and clothing offers a chilling greeting to the atrocities that happened here during the late 70s. Further along a pathway offers some historic information and a map of the hundred or so mass burial grounds unearthed there. Everybody was speechless as we wondered around the holes. All you could here was the calm and hypnotic prayers sung from a temple nearby. Some of the holes were like bomb craters far worse than we saw in Vietnam. It was simply uncomprehendable. Others filled up like tiny ponds, gently bubbling with the stagnant yet organic waters seeming to represent the last breath of the murdered. There were also trees where children where slaughtered. Further along the embankment like paths amidst the numerous holes and littering semi buried rags and bones was a tree where they played a loud speaker that silenced the noise of slaughter. It was truly shocking. To further understand the cruel mass murder of Cambodia's past we also went to Tuol Sleng Museum also known as S21. This prison under Pol Pots regime was formerly a secondary school still bearing the blackboards and sports equipment from its past. Pictures on the wall demonstrated the torture in large and small celled rooms. Numerous rooms of victim mug shots were also a chilling display almost making me vomit. Useful information provided details of how Pol Pots Khmer Rouge communist regime seeked mass murder in search for a classless "organisation" of people without identity. The chilling crimes were sickening with evidence of millions dying in some 22 thousand mass graves found over the country so far. Although Nik visited S21 later on she also visited an orphanage. I chose not to go because I could hardly take in what I had seen already. In spite of any sadness Nik was overjoyed by how well treated the children were offering a bag of rice and her frisbee as well as playing with the happy and smiley children. They are educated and there aim is to give them an opportunity at University. A positive light in a dark day. As Nik visited S21 I went to the riverside to go to a restaurant and tasted the most amazing Khmer curry dish. I also went to a bank and got a wad of Riel money so I can no longer shut my wallet! We then went back to our lakeside guesthouse and enjoyed watching the pure white storm clouds over the lake whilst relaxing under an umbrella to avoid the cooling heat. Cambodia's recent past leaves a blinding shadow over the country. However whilst travelling around Phnom Penh there is ample evidence of this smiley happy nation slowly improving their wounded livelihoods. We've seen the sad side of Cambodia. Now we look forward to tomorrow at Siem Reap and Angkor Wat to unearth the beauty and wonders of Cambodia.

We took a 6 hour bus journey arriving at 2pm to Siem Reap, the home of Cambodia's "jewel," Angkor Wat Temples. Known as the 8th wonder of the world, Angkor Wat is essentially a series of enormous ruined temples dating back to the 12th century. The journey was good and the views across the dry rice fields was really nice what with tall palms edging sporadically into the distance. The only downside was that many of the local's on the bus enjoyed a good hoik up and spit during the journey making a disgusting sound over the SE Asian karaoke on the TV in front. We stopped half way to buy banana baguettes and Nik also bought some interesting purple Cambodian crisps! Once arriving in Siem Reap we picked up 3 Tuk-tuks to take us to our hotel. I expected Siem Reap to be a little more developed than what it was, with it being the gateway to Angkor Wat, but we found there were dusty and some un-built roads in the centre of the City. Nevertheless it was a safe environment with many tourist amenities littering the roadsides. We also booked with our Tuk-Tuk drivers to go to Angkor Wat Temples for sunset, so after some grub and a shower we left for "the mountain" to watch the sun fall. On our journey we passed the actual Angkor Wat which brewed excitement for our day visit the following day. Upon our arrival at the mountain we were greeted by lots of children hoping to sell you books, accessories, gifts and drinks. Yet although their perserverance was somewhat annoying, they are only told to sell by there families to earn some money. We scaled a gentle yet long gradient uphill to the top of the mountain were we discovered (along with hundreds of other tourists) our first gilmour of an Angkor style temple at the west gate of the complex. Its decaying stone was already overrun by tourists perching on the steep edged steps. Many of the buddhist sculptures had been beheaded by Pol Pots Khmer Rouge, yet the beauty of the place would never had been lost, what with the amazing panoramic views of jungle, temples, lakes and fallen yet visible walled surroundings. Camaras were at the ready to view the distant sun setting, yet the dense clouds resting on the lake horizon offered more reason to take a snap at ruined doorways and crumbling buildings. Nik went crazy with photographs! The dark torch lit walk down was greeted by traditional Khmer music at the bottom, not to mention the sellers lurking around for a sale!. We travelled back to Siem Reap with the wind in our hair from the open sided Tuk-Tuk speeding amongst our friends on the other Tuk-Tuks. In the evening we hit the town stopping for some noodles and rice at a street vendor before heading towards the night market. We planned to make sunrise at Angkor Wat so an early start was in order leaving us a bit rushed to search for bargains around a good cheap market. I bought a Kroma which is a large Cambodian Scarf that is famous for its multiple uses whilst Nik found a new dress. We went home later than expected and excited about exploring Angkor Wat the follwoing day.

We woke at 4:30am up and ready for sunrise at Angkor Wat and also to exploit the early morning cooler temperatures for the day. Our Tuk-Tuks were sat waiting in the dark so we set off immedietly. As we arrived at Angkor Wat the dawn light was starting to shine, unearthing the most amazing site. As you walk over the temple moat and through the front building you are instantly hit by a long raised pathway leading to the temple in the far distance, with a grassed garden, a lake and smaller temples in sight either side. The religious architecture was hard not to appreciate, although degraded and eroded, the walls with buddhist images and pattern was truly an amazing site. Hundreds of early risers stood eagerly for a view of the sun rising over Angkor Wat and miroring in the lake in front. All eyes were peeled with their lenses focused onto the beutifuly created temple. Soon enough the sun rose over the Eastern walls, lighting up the intricate decor of the temple amidst a few palm trees. The temple is just as apealing inside with the series of doorways following on to reveal a forested background in the final doorway. The steep steps leding to the centre of the temple were no challenge as we scaled the tall ruins in search of that postcard picture. Like the Killing fields, Ankgor Wat was truly uncomprehendible what with the vast scale and beauty of the place stretching into the distance. Once explored, we headed a few kilometers(!) to the next set of temples known as Angkor Thom. Although less impressive than Angkor Wat we thoroughly enjoyed watching the monkeys play amongst the large girthed trees as we sped passed on our Tuk Tuk. We had breakfast nearby and were swamped by sweet little sellers persuing that sale. We also visited the Temple of Elephants among others in the Angkor Thom complex with their delicate yet crumbled carvings a brilliant sight. There was evidence of restoration at other temples that were defaced by the Khmer Rouge and we would love to have an opportunity to see them in there true light in the future. Yet another temple visited was called Bayon temple with its beautifully carved heads of Buddha looking at you in every direction. It really was difficult to put the camara down! Nik was keen to practice her already good photographic skills on the group looking through windows and finding nice spots for pictures. The sun was soaring and so the heat coupled with a very early start began to take its toll. Yet we were still to visit the temple tomb raider was filmed in.! This certainly regenerated life into us. The temple ruins were governed by tree roots prehistoric in size and scaling up the walls to sprout enormous trees into the clear blue sky. Every direction was picturesque and so our trip around the crumbled stones were slowed by the armies of Japanase with there Nikon cameras shooting away at all they could see. As we were flaking, Nik bought me a bamboo instrument that certainly kept me entertained playing an aboriganal style sound. Our final temple started like many others with small children trying to sell you their goods. I cant remember the name, but this one had a walkway of numerous doorways throughout the long length building like never ending mirrors. However all templed out, we soon made it through with yet more child sellers in front of a large rectangular lake. The Temples at Angkor Wat were truly amazing and I highly recommend anyone to take a visit. However in the heat of the day we were ready to leave questioning how people can explore this once vibrant religious epicentre for days on end. The only negative point of the day was that with little information around the temples, we perhaps would have prefered a tour guide to shed light on this world wonder. Pictures will certainly not offer evidence of the beauty and scale of this place. Hot and tired we cooled down and chilled out for the remainder of the day and bought our Bus ticket to Bangkok. In the evening we went out for food and watched absolutely beautiful Apsara (traditional) dancers perform whilst eating some amazing Khmer curry again. Then we hit the night market for the remainder of the evening where myself, Nik and the girls had a "Doctor Fish" massage. This is where a load of tiny fish eat the dead skin on your foot! As we are well travelled by now, they hoarded to both mine and Niks feet, nibbling away in a food frenzy! It was a very strange feeling and somewhat ticklelish, however after a while it became relaxing and our feet were so smooth when getting out!

The following morning we headed towards Bangkok. Along the way in Cambodia, our bus had to stop once for a trademark "flat tyre change" conveniently outs a local restaurant. We had to wait half an hour but was soon on our way on the smoother roads than researched and expected. When we stopped at the border I became a baggage handler helping all the bags of the bus before we easily went across the border to Thailand. The mid-day heat was to much for Nik and so the Thai customs building with icy air conditioning was a nice treat for her. We then had to wait almost an hour for our next bus inbound to Bangkok. The 5 hour journey from the border to Bangkok was uneventful apart from numerous stops for petrol, once we arrived in Bangkok it strangely felt like we were back home, or perhaps it was because our first leg - the indochina route - was completed. Even though it was late we all got a hotel together at the Siam Oriental hotel, the rooms were very spacious and basic, but we were only paying a couple of quid each.! Like Jesus we had our last supper with our group of 7 before we went our separate ways, and also booked our transport down to Ko Tao and the Floating Market tommorow. Stage 1 complete. Onwards Southbound towards Singapore.


Sorry for the length: Lots to write about

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