Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Angkor, Cambodia Different Perspectives Newsletter August 11, 2008

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Dear Patrons,

Welcome to our news letter. The Staff at Different Perspectives try to bring a clearer picture of current events effecting China and Asia. Although we believe the international media driven primarily by the western world's interests, is bringing the public events as they happen, we at Different Perspectives are independent and non biased without an agenda for prestige or monetary profit. We simply feel the western world may be somewhat isolated from news that is local to our office here in Beijing, China.

We hope you enjoy the news from a different perspective. Please contact us with your questions or comments. We look forward to hearing from you.

Thank you
Different Perspectives Staff
Edward
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Monday August 11, 2008
Yang Chou Thmey Guest House
Phnom Penh, Cambodia




After cruising the local tourists spots (when will I ever learn) I decided to avoid the tourists once again and motorbike south of the city about 55km to a wildlife reserve (check your favorite travel guide for details) established to care for wild animals injured by poachers and other illegal means.

The ride was typically challenging. Hot, dusty and busy but I loved it. Nothing like taking a motorbike ride into the wilderness of rural Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I didn’t see anyone that remotely looked western all day long. It was great!

I stopped along the way a couple of times to check for directions. Fortunately as I mentioned in an earlier post the motorbike rental shop gave me a great map that took me
almost all the way to the reserve.

The map along with my LP guide I was able to navigate quite successful.
And a few prayers didn’t hurt either. Really! Last thing I wanted was to get lost in the wilderness of Cambodia alone, or get in an accident. I would have been in big trouble!

The scenery was flat and desert like, some of the villages that I road through had dirt roads, lined with shack type structures serving mostly as restaurants, homes, motorbike
repair shops, and a bunch, I couldn’t tell what they were.

All along the way as it had been common I felt safe un-intimidated and welcome, even though I was the only Caucasian within a 50 mile radius.

This is what amazed me about SE Asia, that once I got away from tourist route in any country I visited the native people seemed to treat me with much more kindness, generosity and respect. Here is where I met the people.

Before long I was riding my motorbike on a dirt road straight out into the desert wasteland. Few people within site I stopped for a drink of water from the liter of water I carried clipped to a bracket on the frame of my bike between my legs.

Fortunately most all areas of S.E. Asia had bottled water readily available. It was hot enough for me to carry a liter bottle at all times.

Approaching the reserve stopped at a gate to pay a small few, in which the attendant humorously looked at me like I was from another planet.

I don’t think it was a real popular attraction even for the Cambodian tourists. In any case it was a great adventure thus far on my ride from Phnom Penh.

After I parked my motor bike, paid the local Cambodian woman a small fee to park and bought some more water, I walked to the area of the park that had a number of bird species that resembled the common swan, except that they stood up to five feet tall with a wing span of four feet.

A group of them flying around above my head it reminded me of a scene from prehistoric times.

Noticing the reserve was bigger than I thought I went back to retrieve my motorbike rather than walk. As I moved further into the reserve I got an eerie feeling that I was the only one there.

In fact I almost was save for the few primary school students with their teacher who all the way back near the entrance gate enjoying a picnic.

Off to my left was a gated area and in a few other areas the compounds resembled a typical Zoo. However as I pursued my greater interest to see some large animals I came to an area that caged a female lion.

Carefully getting off of my motorbike I was alone in awe of the huge animal staring at me from behind a fence.

As I approached to take a closer look at this cat I scanned the perimeter of the cage to see how secure the animal was confined. With my sites on the top of the cage covered with fencing I felt more reassured. I took a closer look

Quickly the lion moved toward the side of the cage that where I was, to greet me and I am told later on probably to see if I had any food, since this twilight time of the day is when they feed. I was standing with my camera in awe no more than 1 meter from the jaws of this huge animal.

Fortunately the lion was behind 2 fences, but within reaching distance should I have felt it necessary to reach my hand through the fence. I didn’t.

Pacing back and forth she laid down on the other side of the cage about 10 meters away. At this point I noticed a male lion sitting proudly in the distant about 20 meters away. He didn’t think I was interesting, so didn’t move a bit.

After I snapped a few pictures of the cats, I turned around and approached another containment area where an animal described as the Cambodian Black Bear was housed.

This animal resembled and was about the size and of a North American Black Bear, but had longer front paws walked somewhat upright dragging its long arms on the ground in front.

The bears paced quickly back and forth, huffing loudly in an apparent state of irritation. Within minutes of me approaching they moved in side a small barn out of site. Inside I could hear what sounded like a large number of bears pacing, and huffing loudly. I felt bad.

As I contemplated the existence of the caged Black Bears animals, all of a sudden behind me came roar that I had never heard before. A roar so loud and filled with authority it echoed through the reserve. I was moved to listen. The lioness had called for attention.

While preparing my IPod to record in the event of another call for attention, the male lion let out a roar that seemingly silenced the surrounding Cambodian wilderness. It was amazing to experience the power of apparent authority of the wild kingdom.

I was too late for a recording but will have that time in my memory forever.

As it got darker I searched the dirt roads for the area Bengali Tiger compound. Finding myself in deeper ruts than I was comfortable with on my motor bike I got nervous as my bike started getting stuck.

As I scrambled to turn my bike around I noticed what appeared to be huge Elephant hoof prints in the dirk road. Hoof prints as big and intimidating as any trace of massive animal I had ever seen. Now I was really nervous.

I envisioned myself stuck in the wilderness of Cambodia, trampled by elephants. My adventure would be over.

I got my bike turned around and onto a path/cart road that looked like it would take me back to the entrance area. Moments later I met a man that happened to be working at the reserve who was out sweeping the area. (looking for guests to escort them back to entrance of the park so the park could close up for the night.

I was glad to see him is an understatement.

Friendly and kind he offered to show me the Bengali Tiger and the elephants as we headed back toward the park exit. Darker as it got we stopped along a wooded area with a fence know more than 2 meters high.

My “guide” pointed ahead behind a fence as a black and orange Bengali Tiger approached to make our acquaintance. Completely dark now, I flashed a few pictures of the animal as it gazed cautiously at us from no more that a meter away behind the fence.


A beautiful site silent in the dark Cambodian night.

Down the path further we stopped at an open compound the size of football field, surrounded by a 4 meter high heavy steel barricade, made of 1 foot square steel railings spaced vertically every 1 meter.

Off in distance by 100 meters an Elephant quickly moved toward as almost galloping toward the end of the compound where we stood and waited.

I was startled at the energy and initiative this animal made. Standing on its hind legs it threw its trunk over the railing in a gesture of introduction, although I’m sure it was hoping we had food.

With almost a smile on its face the animal got up on its hind legs again and again as I snapped flashed pictures in the Cambodian night. An amazing site I thought.

After I gave my guide a couple US dollars we expressed mutual appreciation for meeting each other and he escorted me to the intersection where I would follow to the right to get back to the exit of the reserve.

Departing and following his directions it wasn’t long before I approached an additional intersection upon which a group of local “nomads” waited who were eager to help me find my way out. It seemed like they were waiting for me.

I took them up on their friendship, snapped a couple of pictures of the group and proceeded once again to the exit anxious to finally get on a familiar road that would ultimately take me back to Phnom Penh.

The ride back to Phnom Penh was uneventful. I stopped by a road side stand where it is common for the vendor to sell liter bottles of gas for motorbikes, since the gas stations are far and few between and not normally opened after dark.

This type of service was very common in Cambodia. The family that owned the road side stand were as kind and helpful as I had expected, even inviting me to share dinner with them. I have met more kind people in Myanmar and Cambodia, than I have in my whole life in the west.

My mind filled with reflection on another day of amazing experiences in South East Asia.
Cambodia was turning out be a highlight in my journey.




Tuesday August 12th
Yang Chou Thmey Guest House
Phnom Penh, Cambodia



I had coffee with the locals before searching for a battery charger for my digital camera.

I had left it my hotel in Bangkok. I bought one that looked like an authentic and that would work with my camera.

Unfortunately I had to visit a western camera conglomerate to get one. So it cost me an arm and a leg and I got service without a smile, from and arrogant sales person, just like in the west!

Onward I rode my motor bike on the Vietnam Cambodian Friendship Bridge across the Mekong River. I spent about an hour site seeing the stone carvers creating Buddha’s as big as 2 meters tall.

Back over the bridge I sought out the National Fine Arts University to see a noontime performance, but failed to locate it.

I ended up cruising around the dusty neighborhoods of North Phnom Penh out near the airport and turned back toward Phnom Wat where my Cambodian girlfriend would be getting off work to hook up with her for dinner.

I followed her on her motor bike to a shopping mall that had a food court on the forth floor. We had crab meat and rice with soup and a delicious fruit. It was inexpensive and comfortable.

Next I followed her to her house where she lived with mother. Her father was a pilot in the Cambodian Air force and was murdered by the Paul pot Regime.

I seem to recall that and American service man was involved in the family at some point too. But I’m not clear on that.

They had a nice house, at least 150 square meters, nicely decorated, and furnished with at least 2 bedrooms kitchen and large living room, built on stilts 5 meters off the ground. Her mother gave me a big hug and welcomed me to stay with them with warmth that was undeniable.

My friend asked me to buy her a new television.

She asked me to meet her for dinner with here mother the next night. But I just couldn’t.
I wasn’t ready to settle down in Phnom Penh. I had a lot more soul searching to do. I had

Raining it was a wet muddy ride out of the dirt roads of my friend’s neighborhood onto the boulevards of Phnom Penh and back to my guest house to do it all again tomorrow.





Wednesday August 13th
Yang Chou Thmey Guest House
Phnom Penh, Cambodia




The usual morning ice coffee time with my friends, I spent the afternoon at the Fragelli Guest House a few doors down on 252 street to use their internet. They were nice enough
To let me use it at will for a small fee.

This guest house had a few tourists checked in but was very expensive. I got 1st class accommodations right next door for a fraction of the price. Beats me?

Later on I had a good western salad garlic bread and spaghetti at the pizza man on the corner of 252nd street and Moginvong Boulevard.

Good food, great service reasonably priced, no tourists and the Beijing Olympics on TV. Just what the doctor ordered.

A quiet peaceful day in Phnom Penh, life is good here, friends, good food and inexpensive with lots to see and experience. Off to Ankor Wat tomorrow for an overnight.





Thursday August 14th
Bequest Guest House Room 104
Ankor Wat
Siem Reap, Cambodia




Took Soya Transport Bus from Phnom Penh today and arrived here about 6:30 pm.

I had a front seat aisle behind the bus driver for the ride to Siem Reap. Good company beside me, and Asian woman going home from university for the weekend to visit her family.

Air conditioned comfort the 6.5 hour ride was easy going. Much of the countryside was level rice fields, scattered farm land and open water along the Toule Sap Reserve Waterway.

The bus was about half full with European Tourists. The most westerners I had seen in days. I knew this was the tourist route, but couldn’t resist the opportunity to see if Angkor Wat was all that it was built up to be.

Arriving in Siem Reap I did the usual waiting for the tourist/tuk tuk hustle and bustle to disperse before walking about 1 km to hook up with a $2 motor bike taxi for the trip to the Bequest Guest House, about 10 km away.

A very muddy dusty ride to the guest house a couple of wrong turns but my driver got me there and I got into room 104 for $13 per night. AC, fan free coffee comfortable, good service and clean.

I was happy and felt safe with my motorbike driver so I hired him to be my driver for the day to Ankor Wat in the morning.






Friday August 15th
Bequest Guest House Room 104
Angkor Wat
Siem Reap, Cambodia





Morning came early since I wanted to see as much of Ankor Wat as possible in one day. My plan was to check this place out quickly, get off the tourist track and back to Phnom Penh.

I spoke with the hotel clerk to for orientation had coffee outside on the hotel veranda (self serve) but well presented, spoke briefly with a French man in Angkor Wat to see the sites then off to Ankor Thom to start with.

After funneling through the entrance of the Ankor ticket and tourist entrance we motor biked about 3 km through the heavily tree lined road through 1 or 2 Ankor style gates to our first stop.

Massive structures most in disrepair and crumbling blocks of granite the ancient city unfolded in front of me. The sculptured head of a King from the 13-14 century overlooking from numerous pedestals. A hot, hot morning in northern Cambodia the tourist turnout was healthy.

After snapping a few dozen pictures and stopping by two temples to chat with the monks
I directed my motorbike driver toward Ankor Thom.

I enjoyed commencing with the people as usual, somewhat enjoyed the ruins and had a ball being chaffered around on the back of a motorbike. The weather was hot but so the breeze form the back of the bike made the ride that more enjoyable.

I met a number of western tourists including a young woman from Tennessee traveling alone. We talked about our travels and Vietnam in particular since she had just came from there and I was headed there in another week and a half.

She was disenchanted with VN as a result of one too many street side vendors trying her patients. She said she felt taken advantage and somewhat unsafe.

I suppose that can happen to a woman traveling alone. I would later reflect from my own experience in VN that it probably didn’t help that she was also an American. In any case we had good conversation.

Most of the day was spent crawling, up in and around, ruins of granite temples, with little distinction between them in style. At one point I decided to direct my driver off the beaten path into a parking lot and a pagoda that wasn’t attracting a lot of attention. It wasn’t an Ankor ruin but a Buddhist Temple/Pagoda well taken care.

At one end of an open air platform about 400 sq meters was Buddha surrounded with flowers and statues of deities. The ceiling that covered the platform supported by columns at each corner had beautiful frescos painted on it.

I laid down face up to take pictures in the quiet, tranquil air of the Pagoda as monks and pilgrims knelt to pray facing Buddha.

To the right of the Pagoda was another structure. I saw from a distance that there was some activity in front of this structure. As I approached I noticed that there was some type of blessing of pilgrims going on. I cautiously approached with respect.

Standing on the edge of the platform of the structure was a monk who dipped a vase into that looked like it was made out of clay into a large basin of water. Raising the vase above his waist he poured water over the heads of a family of 4 as they sat below in a wash basis with their hands folded praying.

I was in awe as I was allowed to watch this family have water poured over there heads as their temple monk chanted Buddhist Scripture in an apparent act of blessing. This was more inspiring to me than all the Ankor ruins together.

I found again more amazing sights as I had found before in my travels off the beaten track. More and more I was appreciating SE Asia from a Different Perspective than the common tourist path.

As we motorbike through the ancient ruins of Ankor I now had my experience for the day to reflect on. Even so Ankor Wat was still on my agenda. Within a few km. we were approaching the mass of tourists in the entry area to Angkor Wat.

A massive and impressive site in front of me I crossed the 200 meter long bridge across a moat and up a series of steps to the main entrance. Beyond description the huge structure I was to enter a structure with a footprint of at least 100 meters square.

Spanning the entire length of each side were bas reliefs carved into the walls of the history of the Ankor Civilization including significant military battles fought.

After about 1 ½ hour the closing time was approaching. Security was ushering everyone out quickly. I stayed chatting with the park employees and security snapping pictures long after the last tourists had left.

Suffice to say I got a lot of additional photos that I wouldn’t have gotten had I been with a tour. Just another example of the benefits traveling alone brings.

As I ever so slowly made my way out of Angkor Wat I was literally the last visitor to leave except for the staff. A local western couple that I chatted with on my way back across the bridge noticed me coming out and said that they were surprised that I was allowed to stay beyond closing time.

They said usually the staff corals all the visitors out very quickly. I said it helps when you make it a point to make friends with the staff and the local people, which had been my routine since leaving China 7 weeks earlier.

It doesn’t make sense to me to spend time in a foreign land and not meet and make friends with the people. Sure Ankor Wat et al. are impressive, archeological findings etc. etc. but for me that’s just a point in history. The human being in its life form is what’s important to me.

Across the bridge I caught some great pictures of Ankor at sunset and munched on street food from a vendor, charcoal cooked potatoes that looked like a big root. The potatoes were two inches in diameter and 8 inches long.

It didn’t look like a potato but it did taste like a potato. I sat down and enjoyed a Cambodian treat with visitors from Italy and Switzerland.

After about 10 hours around the Ankor ruins I hitched a ride back to Siem Reap with my motorbike driver. Showing him my appreciation for his kind and patient friendship for the day I paid him I think maybe $20 USD which I thought was reasonable, bid him farewell and stopped for dinner.

My table, open to the night sky overlooking one of the main streets in Siem Reap I dined on aspara vegetable salad which was delicious and eggplant which was not so delicious.

A good day in Siem Reap and Angkor I quickly saw what I needed to, and was comfortable going back to Phnom Penh in the morning.





Saturday August 16, 2008
Bequest Guest House
Angkor Wat
Siem Reap, Cambodia



Earlier on Friday I had optioned to take a ferry back to Phnom Penh. It was much more expensive than the bus but I decided to splurge and take I hoped would be a more scenic route.

I entered the shuttle bus with about 10 other visitors going to the boat dock. I struck up a conversation with 3 travelers from Austria. It was the first Austrians that I had met in my 7 weeks of travels. They got a chuckle out of me mentioning Olympian Austrian Alpine skier Franz Klammer.

They were very proud of him and me a long time alpine skier we had good words to exchange on the short ride to the ferry dock.

The ferry ride was quiet, and uneventful. I befriended a University Professor Cambodian man who was kind enough to have conversation with me about Paul Pot. A conversation as moving as any I had on the subject. I also met a French/German man on a scientific research study about Cambodian sociology.

So although the scenery was somewhat boring and the “ferry ride” pretty uneventful, the conversations I had mad the trip memorable and relaxed. Good to be back in Phnom Penh. I’m looking forward to exploring Vietnam.

The ferry docked in Phnom Penh about noontime. Got a motorbike cab to my Yang Chou Thmey Guest House, dropped my stuff and headed to the motorbike rental shop at 240th and Monivong to collect my bright yellow motorbike that I asked to have reserved.

I inquired from my good friends here at the shop where I might get a visa for Vietnam.
To my surprise and pleasure they said that they could get mea visa and have it in two days, for $30 usd.

So I left my passport with them which they needed anyway for collateral for the bike rental.

I was pleased. With the logistics in place I would return the motorbike on Tuesday at 5pm, pick up my passport with my Vietnam visa and on Wednesday morning I would leave Cambodia for Vietnam. I was a happy camper!






Next time on Different Perspectives join me as I spend my last 3 days in Phnom Penh and prepare to enter the mysterious country Vietnam to its second biggest city Ho Chi Minh City.


Please join me, until then…….


“Those who accept that we all die someday settle their quarrels.”



Edward
Different Perspectives



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Again welcome to our news letter.

As is common with our objective the following articles are of interest in upholding the purpose of our newsletter to offer a different perspective.

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