People, purchases and peaceful past-times


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Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh
December 27th 2005
Published: December 29th 2005
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You have to work a bit harder in Cambodia, to get to the softer side of people. I have had some lovely moments these last couple of days ... a warm feeling after considering the sadness that must lurk inside many Cambodians. In fact, one moto driver told me as much. He said that they won't show it, but suggested a residual sadness is there in young and old alike.

Restorative start to the day ...


One morning I wandered down to the market place in search of breakfast local-style. It was early - about 7 to 7.30 am and stall holders were setting up. I passed a man and his friend skinning snakes to cook and sell that day! I also saw a man unloading his motobike which had a frame over it that was loaded with bushels of bananas. So ... amidst all this organisation for a day's trading, I took a seat at a share table in the market place.

A woman and her daughter (presumably) sat down opposite me and we exchanged greetings. They ordered breakfast and the stall owner looked at me expectantly - and I indicated that I would have the same! So we got bobor which is a rice porridge ... a bowl of wet, slightly gluggy rice served with side plates of fish (sardine type little fishies), been sprouts, a hard boiled egg, and some pickled ginger. They insisted that I take the first serving at the table. I tried to communicate that I wanted them to start so that I could follow - alas, their insistence was more determined! So I pushed fish and been sprouts into the bowl and hoed in! Naturally I had a rapt audience awaiting my reaction ... and ... it was actually quite good! Not sure that it would be to everyone's taste - especially some siblings! The watchers suitably satisfied, got stuck into their own nosh.

The daughter who seemed to have a hearing impairment, took great pains to show me how to eat the hard-boiled egg, and to let me know that she and her mother had just been to the gym. She also got Chinese tea for us all. There were lots of facial expressions and smiles and then when they got up to go ... they paid for my breakfast! Once again my protestations were to no avail.

On the way out I notice a woman selling betel nuts. These are usually eaten by older people who are easily recognisable by their red teeth! The betel nuts are apparently very good for teeth and as many older folk lose theirs in their latter years, this is a viable preventative? The side effect of making them high is just a bonus I suppose?!?! Anyway, always wondered what they look like and the word 'nut' is not one that would immediately spring to mind ... they are pinky maroon in colour and are slightly misshapen disks about the size of a 10 cent piece.

More markets...


Markets and shopping took me into places packed with T-shirts, designer label overflows, scarves, souvenirs, jewellery, buddhas, trinkets ... you name it. The Russian Market was packed with goods. The stall holders operate in a variety of spaces - some tiny, but their shops are loaded to the hilt. Aisles between sometimes allow barely enough for one to pass, let alone one person going each way. It was stiflingly hot and many of the stands had small pedestal fans strapped to the ceiling blowing air over them and the customers.

The usual happened ... "madame you want silk?" ... "madame you want something?' ... "I do special price for you" ... then the haggling, the sad face when I don't offer enough ... "a no madame ... a little bit of profit madame" ... I don't think I am a hard bargainer, but I got some bargains in terms of their cost within our economy.

One of the markets is in a huge art deco building, which casts a lovely light over the jewellery sellers. It was not where I shopped, just where I looked ... I already have enough trouble zipping up my bag.






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