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Published: November 13th 2005
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Lins PP
Not a tuk-tuk - a Cambodian motorised trailer Lindsay -
Same Same, but Different
is a phrase we met in Vietnam, which seems to have travelled to Cambodia with us. We got the obvious meaning, but haven't quite understood
exactly what is means. "Same Same, but Different" was the moto of the tour company that took us through the Mekong Delta, across the Cambodian border and to the capital city Phnom Penh. And although I really enjoyed the Mekong Delta tour, unfortunately our experiences once we met the border weren't so enyoyable!
Our guide accompanied us as far as the border, and sorted out the initial fee (with an extra $1 "processing fee"!) gave us directions about where to pick up the next boat at the other side of the border, but then we had to fend for ourselves! We disembarked from our boat and a little kid immediately seized my bag (only mine) and ran off with it above his head for me to the metal detectors. Now this is not a light bag, what with the hairdryer and thousands and thousands of contact lenses and make-up (quite a substantial weight). This was much to Russ's consternation as my bag appeared to be going in a completely different direction to
Royal Palace
Cambodian Buckingham Palace - the King was at home the rest of the tourists, but only it turned out because they were walking a very indirect path. As none of our bags appeared to contain any particularly offensive material we made our way back to the boat (small child still running off with my bag) to go across to the next checkpoint. I desperately had to ask Russ for whatever Vietnam money we had left for me to give the poor kid as I only had about 200 dong on me (about 1p), but we managed to scrape together about a dollar, and he had definitely earned it and shared it with all his mates.
The second checkpoint went fine as well - we smiled our best smiles at the Cambodian official, who stamped our passports about a gazillion times before OK-ing us through. We then had about a three hour boat-ride further up the Mekong to catch a bus for another hours journey - it turned out to be a five hour boat-ride. My bag also appears to have magical powers, summoning small people to carry it. We were supposed to get in to Phnom Penh for 4pm, but didn't get on the bus until 5.30pm. And we didn't meet anyone who could speak any English for the rest of the trip. The road to Phnom Penh is also the most bumpy, uncomfortable road I had seen (at that point!), and as we entered the city in the dark at 7.30pm the rickety bus finally croaked, and we broke down at the side of the road.
Russell - Basically it had ran out of water and overheated. The bus was trying to get us to the guesthouse that owned it so the driver did not want to let us off but we rebelled and insisted and he unlocked the door before we broke it down. On the street we were almost immediately surrounded by mopeds and tuk tuk drivers offering us a lift so the driver had to work double time toi fix it before we negotiated ourselves away. In fact I don't think he did anything other than let it cool down for a few minutes before braving it again.
When we arrived at the guest house we were tired so gave little resistance to taking a room for the night but vowed to move first thing in the morning. After a quick change we went out to find food and discovered that the guesthouse was in a totally dead part of town and all the restaurants had shut at 9pm. We ended up in a petrol station buying crisps and beer (two more to add to the upcoming review). We checked out first thing in the morning.
Phnom Penh is actually quite a nice town, I guess you could say Same, Same, but Different! The traffic is calmer and the streets are nicer and it has a beautiful palace and pagoda in the centre. There are far more people begging here and it can feel a bit more threatening than Vietnamese cities. I guess in a communist country you are more equal so begging is frowned on more - or at least that would be the theory. The history of this country is harrowing and we didn't feel we wanted to go to the Killing Fields or the museum here. In the space of 4 years the Khmer Rouge killed over 2 million Cambodians, at the height of the troubles over 100 people a day were executed in a single concentration camp. Enough said.
We were in the town for less than a few hours before someone offered to take me somewhere to shoot off a few rounds of an AK47. He really didn't understand the idea that I don't like guns!!! I notice he never offered Lins the chance.
Lindsay - He probably thought I might shoot you.
Russell - Anyway we spent a couple of good days in the town trying to keep to the lit streets and enjoying trying to get to see the palace. You see we tried every direction to get to the palace but the police kept turning us back. We worked out in the end the King was in town so all the roads needed to be clear for him to get back. This is the same king that helped the Khmer Rouge into power so he isn't exactly universally popular. We also waited to see the bats fly out of the national museum which the guide book insisted there were 1000s of them. I saw about 10.
Lindsay - we have quite a few gripes about the information provided for Cambodia by the Lonely Planet book - it is the most recent edition but seems hopelessly out of date. Grr.
Russell - So finally we decided to head north to see the temples of Angkor near Siam Reap. We were offered two bus ticket $7 or $10. What is the difference. Same, same but different of course. Yes but what does that mean we asked. Both are air conditioned, but the $10 bus has a toilet. OK we'll take the $7 option - was that a good choice.....
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