Adventures in Cambodia

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Arrived in Cambodia mid afternoon after a six hour public bus ride which was actually better than I expected. The bus was a bit old and battered but they gave you a bottle of water each and played movies for you to watch whilst passing the time. We reached the Vietnam border and had to do an exit visa to leave the country. So glad we were part of a group as there are no signs telling you what to do or anything, basically you hand in your passport with all the relevant exit documents and then they check them, stamp you out and then shout your name for you to go through the gates and out of the country. Back on the bus for a 50 metre drive to the Cambodia border where we again hand over passports and more documentation plus $70 to get a Cambodia visa. It's all pretty chaotic. Back on the bus and immediately it is very evident that there is a huge gap between the very rich and the very poor. It's a democratic country but the "establishment" is very corrupt. On the one side there are huge hotels, casinos and expensive houses whilst on the other there are shanty houses. There is the building for the headquarters of the anti corruption authority and across the road is a car sales room selling Range Rovers, Bentleys and other expensive cars which only the corrupt can afford to buy!

Anyway having arrived in Phnom Penh and dumped our bags we were taken around the city on a cyclo tour. We must have looked a sight, 15 cyclo all in a single line snaking our way through the city. We stopped at monuments, the central market, independence monument, a statue of the King and finally we were dropped off in front of the Royal Palace, which at night is all lit up and looked a little like Las Vegas! We ate in a riverside restaurant and then made our way back to the hotel a bit bushed.

Today has been an emotional day for us all on the bus. We began our day with a lecture about the history of Cambodia and following this we visited Toul Sleng Prison and the killing fields. The prison or S21 as they call it was originally a primary school before the Khmer Rouge took it over as a prison and a place where they tortured people. There are photographs on the walls of the people they imprisoned as well as the instruments of torture that they used on show. Electrified barbed wire runs down the walls of all the buildings and it is a stark reminder of just how cruel mankind can be to one another. There are two survivors of the prison still alive and they were there for you to meet. Their stories are harrowing, the torture they endured, they witnessed their wives being murdered in front of them and they do not know to this day what happened to their children. Brave men who show an extrodinary sense of peace considering what they have been through. Whilst walking around I was comparing it to a visit we had to done to Auchwitz and somehow this seemed in some degree worse in that to me it was not that long ago and there is not a family in Cambodia that has not suffered a loss as a result of the conflict. We go to see these places in the hope that we learn of the awful, unthinkable, barbaric crimes that have been committed and we can learn from the past and ensure that this kind of atrocity does not happen again. Sadly this is not the case as there will always be a war somewhere in the world and man being cruel to one another, it's tragic. Back on the bus and a 40 minute drive to the Killing Fields, on the way our guide shared his personal stories with us and he got so upset he couldn't continue, it's all still very raw for the people living here. The killing fields have over 163 mass graves some of which have been excavated. In some there were upto 450 bodies, some were just women and children and some were just full of headless bodies. The Khmer Rouge murdered nearly 2 million people, small babies and children were bashed against trees until dead. It is all so graphic. You walk through the fields and there are still bones that you can see through the soil. Every time it rains the soil is washed away and new skeletons emerge from the ground. The local people of the neighbouring villages had no idea what was going on as loud speakers where in all the trees playing music to mask the cries of the victims. They have built a huge monument in the centre of the fields dedicated to all the people who lost their lives and inside there is floor after floor of skulls, bones, clothes and weapons that have been excavated. It's a truly harrowing story and very emotive to listen to the personal stories. It was a very somber day for us all.

Visited the Royal Palace which is totally spectacular, it's made up of lots of temples and the wealth that is in these buildings is staggering. There are statues of Buddha completely coated in diamonds, and made of gold. The buildings and temples are so intricate, the roofs are so ornate and the skill and workmanship involved is just awe inspiring. Cambodia has a monarchy and the current King is a practicing Buddist and therefore will not marry so his successor will be chosen from one of his relatives who is best suited for the job. Also big news today Costa Coffee is here, yippee. OMG it was sooooo good. Waited ages for a good coffee and thought I was seeing things when I spotted it, but no it really was the proper job. Tonight we went on a Tuc Tuc to the harbour where we picked up a boat to sail down the river and watch the sunset. Our guide had worked really hard and got us a Buffett and beer together which was lovely although I think the big bugs and insects were a step too far. Although I did think I was brave and ate one, Baz refused, (when in Rome and all that!). Afterwards we went for cocktails which were good, I Skyped Mum from the bar and introduced her to some of the group, sorry Mum!

Today we have travelled by private mini bus to Siem Reap, at least a 8hr journey over very bumpy unmade roads. Our first stop for a toilet break which here they call going to the happy room was at a small market. When the bus pulled up all the local kids came out trying to sell you pineapples, bananas and mangos. If that didn't get you to spend your money out came the Tarantula Spiders which they put on you for a photo op. You could actually buy deep fried or sweet and sour tarantulars on one of the stalls if you wanted to. Our guide bought one to eat (he is Cambodian) and proceeded to eat it saying it "tasted just like chicken", it was still hairy!!!! Moving swiftly on and another couple of hours and then a stop for lunch which was at a restaurant on stilts overlooking the paddy fields. Quite a nice stop over but unfortunately we had a flat tyre so off the driver went to get it changed. All mended and back on the bus, 20 mins down the road and another flat tyre, this time he had no spare so we were asked to get out of the bus in the middle of nowhere. It was nearly 100 degrees and we were melting!! Our guide Vichel took us across the road to the local houses. I have to say we rocked up at these houses, 14 Westerners, no invitation, completely out of the blue and before we knew it we are invited to sit in the shade under the house, all the children emerged and their mothers and we became a bit of a tourist attraction ourselves. We handed out all our sweets, crisps and anything else we had to the kids and they were really excited. We asked our guide to get them to sing us a song which they did and they were fantastic. Not wanting to be outdone the group sang a song to them, we chose "If your happy and you know it, clap your hands". At first they laughed at us all but then we taught the kids the actions and our guide got them to sing the words in Cambodian. We had a great time, they showed us around their home which was very humbling. They have nothing but appeared to be so happy that we had rocked up, invaded their space and were more than delighted for us to entertain the kids for an hour. It was an impromptu stop but ended up being probably the best experience we all had. We were left feeling happy, excited and inspired by such generous, gentle people. It was truly wonderful and something that we will carry in our hearts forever.

Tonight our guide Vichel has invited us all to his house for dinner, we didn't know but apparently it was their wedding Anniversay and his wife told him they were having another baby. We arrived by Tuc tuc and they made us so welcome. We called at the shops for a teddy bear for his little girl and some flowers for his wife as you can't arrive without a gift. They live in a rented apartment which is basically just one room, you cook, eat, chill out and sleep all in the one room. They had cooked us a feast which was just delicious and he had bought in wine, beer and champers for us all. Some of his friends came as well and the whole evening was just such a lovely experience. It's funny, the people who have nothing will share what little they have with you, it's very generous and such a kind act that it renders you speechless sometimes.

Another full on day today, up and out for 8am to visit some of the temples of Angkor. We visited six in all and honestly I can't remember the names of them all. Mostly constructed in the eleventh century and considering their age they are in remarkable condition. The largest we visited was the Temple of Babhoon which was enormous and probably the one that was most intact. We were shown how they cut and placed the stones and how they made all their intricate markings. They are quite spectacular and it is no wonder that Hollywood have used the location in several films, the most famous being Tomb Raider. Of course we had the photo taken outside the doorway that is in the film. I have to say that Angelina Jolie was obviously a lot more glamourous than us red faced sweaty lot that stood and posed but maybe she wasn't walking around in 100 degree heat!! We had an elephant ride around a temple which was cool although not very comfy, a very bumpy ride. We were in two minds about doing this as we were so upset by the conditions of the elephants in Thailand but these all looked like happy well cared for elephants and our guide told us that they are very strictly regulated and checked on regularly, so off we went. We felt like royalty as everyone kept stopping to take our photo. Quick lunch stop and then out again to do the Temple in the Jungle which was only rediscovered in 1920 ish and is now being restored. There were huge trees growing in amongst the stone and the roots were like huge snakes wrapping themselves around, it was all very atmospheric.

We spent the evening having a meal that was provided by a local language school supported by funding from other countries and G Adventures. It provides 1200 children with free schooling to learn English. The waiting on staff and chefs are all learning a trade. It was nice to see how the project has grown and the effect that it has had in the local community.

Today we were up and out at 4.30am so that we could watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat. It was lovely watching the pinks and blues of the sky together with the huge temples. It is obviously a must see and do thing as there quite a few hundred other people all with cameras waiting for that perfect photo! The hotel had packed us a breakfast so after the sunrise we ate and then it was a tour around the temple. It is colossol and when you think it took them only 36 years to build there must have been thousands of craftsmen hard at it. The walls are covered in carvings depicting various stories and some of them look as though they were only made a few years ago, they are so well preserved it's amazing. Unfortunately lots of the statues of Buddha have been looted over the years and most either have heads or hands missing which is a shame but gradually pieces are slowly being returned, only two weeks ago America returned some artefacts taken from the temple. Most of the treasure was taken and looted by the French, but they don't seem to want to return any!! This afternoon is free time so as we have not actually been out in the day around Siem Reap we are off to explore which probably means Baz will be dragging me round the markets and shops, again!!

Well just back from the markets and we have bought ethnic pants with elephants all over them. It is so hot here they appear to be the coolest thing to wear. I have to say that I look like a bloomin elephant in them but hey ho nobody knows me. If you could see us you would think we are right old pair of hippies. We bought a couple of tops as well and secretly I think Baz only buys stuff as he enjoys the bartering!! I on the other hand I feel really sorry for them and keep telling him to pay the full price so he gets a bit exasperated!!

Last night here and we have spent it at a dinner and traditional dance show. It was all about hand movements and each movement had a different meaning. The costumes were very colourful and the whole evening was a lovely way to finish off our Cambodia trip.

We have been absolutely delighted with this trip. It has far exceeded our expectations, the things we have done and seen have been amazing and the company and our guide made everything run smoothly. Just a wonderful experience, highly recommend Vietnam and Cambodia, awesome!

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Comments

[Chris hay]

Hi vicki and Barry. We can't wait to go after reading your blog
What experiences you have had Cant wait to meet up xx