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Published: January 23rd 2010
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I guess it's time to wrap up Cambodia now that we're in Chiang Mai, Thailand. What can I say that hasn't been said already? I think that our trip was definitely enhanced by the fact that we had a dedicated driver all week with whom we bonded. He opened up Cambodia to us in a way that a casual ride in a tuk tuk might never do. Staying where we did also did the trick - a perfect combination of comfort and Khmer style in the heart of Siem Reap. To anyone considering a stay there, we can most highly recommend the Villa Siem Reap. Top notch staff, food, lodgings, drivers and guides.
We spent our last day in Cambodia traveling down the road to Tonle Sap where we had ridden our bikes a few days ago. Snai zipped us down there in no time and we asked him to bring us to the strange hill by the stilt houses. It is known as Phnom Krom - phnom is the word for mountain (pronounced p'nom). Finally the sun was back out in all its southeast asian glory, hot as hell as we climbed the stairs up to the temple at
the top. Happily the further we went up the breezier it became. There is not only a temple at the top but a functioning buddhist monastery...both temple and monastery are in disrepair but the view of the lake, rice fields and stilt village below made it an interesting walk. So did almost stepping on a bright green snake that was crossing the road. Things that bright are usually that way as a warning. Can't wait to look up just what kind of snake it was...
Snai then took us over to the Villa's sister property, Sojourn. This is a more upscale place dropped smack in the middle of the Cambodian countryside. It felt quite strange to enjoy a swim in a lovely pool and have a smoothie when just over the wall were water buffalo, chickens and pantsless toddlers running around. One wonders what to do with the conflicted feelings that come from splurging in a place with so little. It's nice to know of a few organizations there that are truly worthy of further contributions after the fact that we can seek out as well.
I'm going to sound borderline ridiculous when I say that I was
choked up to say goodbye to Snai at the airport but we felt like we had such a close-knit experience in Cambodia that it was hard to leave. I cannot say enough about what little we saw of the country and its people. Most Cambodians have never been to see Angkor - it is an unimaginable trip for most of the people as traveling to do such a thing would take more money than they dream of having. You do not see Cambodian tourists. But some day you will and we'll know that they are making their way in the world. I hope it is soon and wish them all the best!
Our flight out on Bangkok Air was flawless and we wondered just how the connection in Bangkok was going to work. I booked the flight to Chiang Mai only 30 minutes after we landed - I figured, hey, they're both Bangkok Air flights, they'll be in the same terminal, no problem.
RIGHT
We landed early out in what seemed like the back 40, got on a bus and started to feel a little dread. I mean, it wasn't going to be tragic if we missed
the next flight; even if we lost our money it was only about $40 a ticket (if that). But as we stood there waiting impatiently for the leisurely tourist folk to get their butts on the bus, a perfectly coiffed Bangkok Air agent stepped on the bus and asked where the people going to Chiang Mai were. Yeah, that would be us.
She pulled us off the bus and, high heels clicking quickly across the tarmac said in her most polite broken english 'you know, you only have half an hour between your flights'. Guilty. It was unreal, the Bangkok Air service. She led us to a waiting van, had it drive us around the airport, led us through, again, at speeds that no normal woman in high heels could pull off, to immigration. We had no idea we were going to have to check out and do the whole international to domestic tango. We were through immigration in no time, and then turned the next corner to do security all over again. Security now exists for every airplane you get on, not just the first. She ushered us through there and then sped us down toward our gate,
stilt houses in the dry season
further down the river they said to heck with the stilts and built floating houses another quarter mile down the hallway. Half way there she stopped, pointed the way and took her leave. She RULED.
We got on the flight with time to spare, had an uneventful hour long flight north, and then the pilot came on to say that we couldn't land for 20 minutes due to 'an airport delay'. So we headed west and did circles over the mountains for a while. We finally landed, grabbed a taxi and had a lovely chat with our driver Somchai about what the hell was going on that kept us in the air an extra 20. 'Oh', he said, 'king's daughter in town. Fry out tonight.' Ah. He was cool, Somchai, had a big guitar case in his passenger seat and said he loved to play the brues.
We had a good laugh as we turned the key to our new place - only $10 a night mind you. Let's just say we were terribly spoiled up at the Villa. The room is very simple, with a fan and a bed and a couple of random tables on which to set all of our crap. The bathroom is a hoot with magnificent frigateship tiles
and a shower you can use whilst setting on the crapper. Actually I wouldn't really call it a shower, just the 2 square feet in the bathroom that isn't a sink or toilet.
But you know what, it's ok because there is a fabulous courtyard with a cooler full of beer you can honor system yourself to, the two guys running it are great and the breakfast here this morning was outstanding. I'm going to sign off on this Chiang Mai ramble so that I can separate it from the Cambodian sign-off. It's time to go find dinner and the night market anyway!
I already know the title for tomorrow's blog: Horse Pee Eggs. Stay tuned. 😊
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