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Published: December 12th 2008
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After not having the perfect time in Phnom Penh, when Krysta and I left the city I felt more a sense of relief than of excitement. We didn’t know what we were in for. Some people dedicate their entire lives to the study of Angkor and surrounding area. We arrived having done no research, knowing only that it was something we should check out. Ignorance aside, over the last 10 days Siem Reap has come to be one of our favorite places in the world.
Six hours on the bus got us from one city to the next. Mr. Sambo, a representative from our new hotel, picked us up at the station. We could tell right away that Siem Reap operated at a different pace, and we became comfortable very quickly. Because of the collection of temples and relics, the town attracts a broad range of visitors. Professors, families, backpackers, the very rich, the very poor and the very famous can all be easily taken care of in this city of only 140,000 people. There is a wonderful selection of places to eat and hotels to stay at for any taste or bankroll. The local culture embraces the ideals of
“Kindness and Honesty”, and friends are quickly made when you have similar principles and demonstrate that you like to drink beer.
Our hotel was different than others we have stayed at so far. Run by a man named Mr. Soothy and his wife, they have created the perfect atmosphere for the adventurous and young (or young at heart). There were about six young men, who were drivers by trade, who were kept on staff all day. They worked in the restaurant, did some light cleaning, and provided rides or tours as they were needed. Almost every night the drivers would sit over a pile of beer cans at the outside restaurant and drink with the hotel guests. It was a source of great information, both cultural and historical, and some much needed man-time for me. The hotel was the Siem Reap Riverside, and we would recommend it to any backpacker going to see this amazing place. The staff consistently claimed that Sir Elton John had stayed there within the last year.
For those who are unfamiliar, Siem Reap is the nearest modern city to a group of temples and other relics built by the kings of the ancient
Face
One of the famous faces of Bayon. Khmer Empire, commonly referred to as Angkor. Covering about 400km2 it contains the capitals and religious sites of the 9th to the 15th century. Once the most powerful kingdom in all of Southeast Asia, the Khmer ruled over Cambodia, Thailand and parts of Laos and Vietnam. Using vast and complicated waterways the Khmer were able to create great surpluses of agricultural goods, which provided immense wealth. According to some of the guides, the canals also helped to get the material for their great temples to the building sites. Modern satellites have revealed Angkor to be the largest pre-industrial urban center in the world, larger than modern day New York. It is also the world’s largest religious center.
We spent three days going all around the area in the back of Mr. Sambo’s remork (motorcycle with a trailer for passengers). We saw approximately 12 different temples, including highlights of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon and Banteay Srei. At each stop, Sambo would give us a little description of each site upon arrival. The structures are breathtaking in their size, detail and accessibility. Except for a few areas that were currently being renovated, you could go anywhere, climb anything; feel and
Bayon
From the outside. touch it all. The pictures we’ve posted represent the detail well, but the sheer magnitude of these places proved difficult to capture “on film”. They must be seen to be believed, and are a necessary stop for anyone coming to this part of the world.
On our non-temple days we did a lot of browsing at the local markets and snacking at different eateries. Many great keepsakes are available at very reasonable prices, and negotiations are not as difficult as we have experienced in the past. There is also and amazing array of cut gemstones available here (and in other areas of Cambodia). We really enjoyed going around looking at them and getting an education about what was what. Food is available in any form, including local Khmer, Mexican, Western, and of course, pizza. We also went to a buffet and dance show that showcased six traditional dances, including Apsara - the oldest and most iconic Khmer dance. It was an excellent display of ancient culture.
Other things we noticed: Canada is heavily involved in the de-mining of this country that still shows plenty of evidence of the remaining mines in armless and legless people you see everywhere.
There is also a great deal of other humanitarian work going on all over Cambodia in healthcare, malaria management and human rights development.
Offering one of those experiences that motivates everyone to travel, we officially recommend at least a week in Siem Reap to everyone who gets the chance.
With kindness and honesty,
The Smiths
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