Temple. Fatigue.

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Apparently there really is such a thing as temple fatigue. The average length of stay in Siem Reap is only two and a half days - not really long enough to see everything properly. Temple Fatigue occurs when you become literally templed out - you've just seen too many temples.

Temple. Fatigue. I had both on this day - but they were independent events.

Manil was collecting us at 0430 so the alarm went off at 0400... and 0410... and 0420. I threw some clothes on and we headed straight out to Angkor Wat to see the sunrise. We were amongst the first 100 or so people there but by sunrise there must have been a few thousand. We had our pick of the spots and managed to take some quite incredible photos of the sun coming up behind Angkor Wat, the clouds reflecting red in the background.

We walked into the temple to take a look around and spent at least a few hours taking it all in. Many of the carvings in the walls were still in excellent condition and although we had so much time there, I suspect that we probably missed about a quarter of the temple itself. There were several areas to it - the centre high towers and surrounding courtyard along with two or three outer walled areas, each with large rooms and open areas off them. Unfortunately there were so many tourists it was impossible to get many good photos so it soon became obvious why kids were selling postcards at the entrance.

At 0830 we met Manil and he took us to a local restaurant for breakfast - at US$4 for an egg and bacon roll, it was rather expensive and rather average but it filled the gap. The temperature was already over 30 degrees and I'd spent a fair bit of time at Angkor Wat sitting down and sipping water. I was not feeling very well at all. It wasn't food poisoning but I just felt like all the energy in me had taken leave for the day.

The much larger complex of Angkor Thom was next on the list, not just for us apparently, but for every tour group in Siem Reap. We made our way through the masses to look through Bayon.

Bayon is a labyrinth of rooms, stairs and towers where it is impossible to escape the giant heads on each side of the towers that look down on the hoards with a knowing smile - yeah - we know what all the fuss is about. Whilst Angkor Wat was sensational in the morning and there is no escaping its allure, Bayon was my favourite temple of the day. We spent nearly an hour finding all the hidden spots, climbing up and down the stairs trying to get lost. The noise of the tour groups ensured we were never too far from finding our way out but each angle offered another photo opportunity so I took advantage. So too did one Chinese bloke who will return home with hundreds of photos of his wife giving the peace sign from every possible angle in at Bayon.

I had to stop for another rest and wasn't feeling well at all. To make matters worse, we still had at least two temples to walk around before we got to the place where Manil had said he would meet us with the tuk tuk.

Baphuon has a long pathway leading up to it that is rather an impressive sight - rather an oppressive sight if it's over 30 degrees and you realise there is no shade for the 200 metres to the entrance. It has three levels to it and each is accessed by steep staircases that actually resemble ladders more than stairs. We climbed and descended, took a few photos and moved on.

Phimenakis was the final temple for this part of the route and was in a more ruined state than the previous temples. We walked around it and headed straight for the gathered tuk tuks a few hundred metres away.

I was out on my feet when we saw a smiling Manil wave at us from the myriad of tuk tuks in the park. I accepted gratefully his offer of a cold water and he suggested a route for the remainder of the day. I had alternative plans.

We put off any more temples for the day and headed back to The Moon Hotel, arriving about 1130 - six hours after we headed off. Jo reckons I was snoring within seconds of lying down.

I woke about 1530 alternating between shivers and heat but I figured I'd better eat something. The most neutral item on the hotel menu was a chicken burger and I got through it in between 10 minute naps. Rithy came in and checked on me a few times when he heard I was crook and even offered to take me to the hospital but I knew what was wrong with me.

I was stuffed. There's probably a more technical medical term for it but I was rooted. It had been one of the hottest days of the holiday and the early morning start followed by the climbing of temples and tourist dodging had exhausted me. I slept and woke up several more times throughout the afternoon and got as far as the hotel restaurant for a Khmer chicken curry for dinner but that was it.

Jo was looking after me throughout everything. She was arranging flights back to Phnom Penh for us with the hotel staff and arranging cold drinks for me. As per her usual strict holiday packing schedule we had more drugs on us than a South Central street corner dealer so I was constantly being given rehydration fluid, panadol and antibiotics.

I couldn't ask for a better travel partner and it's always the lousy times when this is the most important. Legend.

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