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Published: October 7th 2009
Ok so first of all I have to apologise for the lack of writing this last week, but due to limited internet connection in the most recent places we have visited I have been unable to update my blog. So let me tell you about the adventures of the past few days.
We left Phnom Penh with an extremely good impression of the city and eagerly awaited what Siem Reap would have in store us. While our journey to Siem Reap was extremely comfortable bus ride taking 5 hours, the weather suddenly took a dramatic turn for the worseas we were hit by the end tail of Typhoon Ketsana that had ravaged much of Vietnam a few days earlier. When we arrived in Siem Reap - a beautiful little town containing much French inspired architecture dating back to their colonial dominance - it felt more like a miniature Venice as all the streets had flooded and the Stung Siem Reap was inches away from bursting its banks. However this did not even seem to slightly bother the local tuk tuk drivers! No matter where you are, at what time, in whatever conditions in South East Asia, if you are a westerner
disembarking from any form of transportation it is a guaranteed fact that you will be met by tens of people prepared to give you a lift in all sorts of different kinds of transport. And once again, further testifying to the incredible hospitality of the Cambodians, we met an extremely friendly tuk tuk driver - who shamefully we never actually found the name of and so Tom and myself always refer to him as "Clive" - who drove us to our hostel (Jasmine Lodge, definitely our favourite place so far and highly recomended for people looking for pleasant cheap accomodation whose staff are helpful and speak good english) but also round the entire Angkor Temple complex the following day for a very reasonable price. Another source of amusement with the tuk tuk drivers of Cambodia is that as soon they found out you are from England they start talking to you in cockney ryhming slang! It was genuinely hilarious talking to Cambodians who would reply to every one of your questions with "lovely jubly" or "Yes diamond geezer", although they do not realise that this is a London way of talking rather than a British way, and we have heard
stories of Scottish and Welsh people trying to explain that this is not how they speak only for this to fall on completely deaf ears! There must be some sort of Cambodian Cockney Rhyming sland translation dictionary hovering around, because he was saying some phrases that we hadnt even heard of before!
When visiting Cambodia going to see Angkor Wat is essential, on the same scale as it would be to visit Egypt and to go to the Pyramids. You have to do it. The Cambodians take huge pride in it, with images of it absolutely everywhere - from their national flag to their beers. Whilst it is hugely recomended to see the sun rise over these stunning religious marvels, with the weather strongly against us unfortunately this was not an option for us. However this did not tarnish our day whatsover, as we were both astounded by one of the most incredible sites in the world. What is also key to remember is that there is so much more than just the temple of Angkor Wat. Although it is the most well known, but there are many other temples in the area that can equally take your breath away.
Ok so I'm going to give you an extremely brief historical overview of the Angkor Temple Site. The "lost city" of Angkor became the centre of intense European popular and scholarly interest after the publication in the 1860's of "Le Tour du Monde", an account by the French naturalist Henri Mouhot of his voyages. Under the aegis of Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient a group of archaeologists took on the titanic effort beginning in 1908 to clear away the jungle vegetation that was destroying many of the monuments. We started our Tour at the Temple of Ta Prohm - used for the sets of the films Tomb Raider and Two Brothers - it was truly what one would imagine a lost jungle temple would look like. The only temple in the area to be kept exactly as it was first found, giant trees grow from out of the building wrapping their massive tentacle roots around its structure in a warped ballet of nature against human architecture. Ta Keo was next, a massive pyramid rising fifty meters above the jungle. Despite the temples ageing from between the ninth and thirteenth centuries, the authorities are extremely liberal with how you are allowed to
explore them, and so we climbed up the extremely steep steps to the top to get an amazing view overlooking the jungle. In a way the rainy weather was making the experience all the more exciting, as not only did it mean the site was less busy, but also it felt that you truly were adventuring into the jungle. Checking out the smaller temples of Chau Say Tevoda and Thommanau we then came up to the massive gates of the Lost City of Angkor Thom. In the twelfth century when London had a population of around 50,000, Angkor Thom had over one million inhabitants. The capital of the once mighty Khmer empire, now only its giant walls and temples remain in the jungle. In the city we visited the Royal Palace, the Terrace of Elephants - a 300 metrelong walk way adorned with giant three headed elephants held aloft by the outstretched arms of half man half bird creatures, and theterrace of the Leper King on top of which is a mysterious statue. On the edge of the city is the massive temple of Bayon, which really belongs in the set of an Indiana Jones film. 216 gargantuan faces watch
over visitors in this stunning temple. On our way towards Angkor Wat now, we visited Phnom Bakeng which lies atop a large hill. One of the oldest temples on site, the arduous climb to the top was well worth the views. Finally we arrived at the big one - Angkor Wat. When doing the site I would highly recommend saving it unitl the end, as all the temples we visited during the day were incredible, but Angkor Wat is something else, and if seen first could undermine your opinions of the other temples which would not do them Justice. Angkor Wat itself? Pictures and words do not have the same effect as witnessing this giant masterpiece. In fact I dont really understand why it is not more globally reknowned. A definite wonder of the world.
Obviously exhausted after this day, Siem Reap still had one more surprise left up its sleeve. As we were walking throught the town with aching feet we came across a sign called "Dr Fish Massage." Intrigued by the name we investigated, and came across something I had never seen before. We put our feet into a giant tub where hundreds of little fish proceeded to
nibble on our feet! Extremely ticklish it was an hilarious experience and did in fact make your feet feel soft afterwards!
From Siem Reap we were facing our longest journey yet in order to get to the small tropical Thai island of Koh Phangan - a full 27 hours away buy bus and boat. Our decision to make such a long trip? It is on Koh Phangan where the legendary monthly full moon party takes place. As the moon reaches its monthly climax, every other traveller makes his or her way to Koh Phangnan for this party. Thankfully the 27 hour journey although long went very smoothely, and awaiting for us on the island was our extremely basic but nonetheless beautiful beach bungalow. Located outside of the hustle and bustle of the party town of Haad Rin, our bungalows were located on the tiny strip of sand called ban tai. We had a bed, a hammock, a cold shower, a toilet and beautiful turqoise blue ocean all around us. Our reasons for being on Koh Phangan were very simple. Party and Relax. Neither disapointed.
On the 4th October the beach of Haad Rin transformed under the cover of darkness as
thousands of people raved until sunrise. Fire Skipping, Fire Limbos meeting loads of friendly people and the infamous "buckets" made the night on Haad Rin one of the most amazing in my life, so much fun. The tropical paradise also made for the perfect hangover cure as we spent the rest of our time on the island lazing away the day on our hammocks. Saying goodbye to our new friends our next stop is where I am now writing to you now from - Koh Phi Phi. Now a "must do" for backpackers as it was here that "the beach" was filmed, the beauty of the landscape in South East Asia never ceases to amaze me.
Ok Ive got to stop now as im heading off to "The beach" very soon which is actually located on a tiny isalnd south of here. Much Love to everyone, Bangkok is our next destination!
xxx
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iris
non-member comment
Hi
Hi you two Great to hear from you again. Loved your description of all the places in Cambodia. Have a super time in Thailand. From your fans in Crouch End. xx